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Ho scale track ballast

Started by DALERUK, May 05, 2010, 05:39:30 PM

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DALERUK

What kind of ballast does everybody use. Just wondering.

CNE Runner

I bought mine years ago from a chap on eBay. I guess the box weighed 10 or 15 lbs - so I have enough for the rest of my life. As I recall he was selling several colors; but I elected to go with gray (which is a widely used color in the Northeast). I have no idea whether or not he is still selling the stuff.

Ray
"Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on the rail"

full maxx

look up FullMaxx1 on youtube or check the blog for the lastest updates  www.crumbsinmycouch.com

Jim Banner

In H0, I use "salt and pepper" mortar sand that I picked up years ago at a quarry in Calgary.  It is a mixture of Calcite and Dolomite, just like the big boys use in that area.  It cost about $20 per cubic yard (about 3000 pounds) or less than 1 cent per pound.

In large scale, I use kitty litter indoors and chicken grit (crushed granite) outdoors.

Jim   
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

the Bach-man

Dear Dale,
I use sanded grout, which comes in many colors, and is really bullet-proof when hard.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

robtheailean

There is a place here in Oz called Chucks Ballast.(www.chucksballst.com.au) where the owner actually goes to the same quarries as the railroads and grinds rock to suit model scales. I use his stuff on my HO layout, fixed to the track bed using watered down PVA glue - looks very "prototypical"  ;)

However, to be accurate, you need to match the ballast on your prototype's area to your scale stuff - an example is the very "red" stone used in areas of Queensland (and one of the colours Mr Chuck supplies.)

HOWEVER! I would have to be concerned at the economics of shipping rocks from Oz to the continetal US...  ;D

jward

i've been using the woodland scenics ballast. it is readily available in most hobby shops around here.
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

jonathan

I also use the Woodland Scenics ballast; the medium sized, mixed grey blend.  I also mix in some beach sand (about 25%) just to make it go a little further.  Works well.

Regards,

Jonathan

ebtnut

The Woodland Scenics is good and generally available at most decent train shops.  Choose a color that looks "right" to you, maybe based on what you see on the tracks in your area.  Medium grey is the default color for most folks.  If you want to get more detailed, you may want to use different colors on secondary tracks and yards.  Secondary tracks and sidings often have ballast that has gotten darker from rain, mud, etc. and may be more brown than grey.  A lot of yards used cinders.  For this, I would use N scale cinder ballast, since cinders are generally much finer than main line ballast stone.

uncbob

Quote from: the Bach-man on May 06, 2010, 12:52:33 AM
Dear Dale,
I use sanded grout, which comes in many colors, and is really bullet-proof when hard.
Have fun!
the Bach-man
How do you apply it and do you use it on non EZ  track

the Bach-man

Dear Bob,
I brush it into place and spray it with warm "wet" water.
It looks great.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

uncbob

Quote from: the Bach-man on May 06, 2010, 11:50:17 PM
Dear Bob,
I brush it into place and spray it with warm "wet" water.
It looks great.
Have fun!
the Bach-man
On the EZ track plastic bed or on regular track

ebtnut

One cautionary note:  If you use natural materials, be sure that there aren't any iron-bearing minerals in it.  While not as big a problem in these days of can motors, the motor magnets can attract these small particles which can migrate into the mechanism over time.  If you want to use these materials, get a good strong magnet and see if anything sticks to it.  If so, I wouldn't use it for ballast. 

Jim Banner

Of all the iron minerals, only magnetite is magnetic.  Hematite, chromite, hercynite, goethite,  limenite, siderite, taconite, and the pyrites (to mention a few of the more common natural forms of iron. are not.  Having said that, I religiously follow ebnut's advice and test with a manget, ever since finding that a bag of "coal" was in fact 100% magnetite.  Crushed magnetite is sharp and hard, about as hard as a good steel file or quartz.  Just the things for grinding up gears, motors, and anything else that moves.
Jim 

Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

CNE Runner

Slightly off topic, but be sure to follow Jim's advice should you have occasion to use real dirt on your layout. Yesterday I scooped up some nice Alabama dirt from the garden and proceeded to sift it (after checking it with a magnet). Naturally I started out using my wife's sifter...then her tea strainer...then a pair of (I thought) old pantyhose. Because of my excellent planning (she was shopping in Huntsville) I figured she would remain unaware of the 'crime'.

An important step, when you are using natural ground cover, is to bake the final product in a very warm oven (375F+ or 185C+). Hee, hee - she won't be back for a couple of hours so the Lone Runner got away with it again...WRONG! I got working on the layout and forgot all about my 'dirt casserole'. When the Superintendant got home she smelled something 'strange' [I swear women have the noses of bloodhounds.] and looked in the oven. Busted! Now I am starting to enjoy reading old issues of Model Railroader and RMC...by flashlight in the garden shed.

Ray
"Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on the rail"