solder or not

[Atlantic Central]

Rich,

Great thoughts and well presented,

I just have one comment/question?

What brand, brands or rail codes of flex track do you usually use?

It has been my experiance with Atlas code 83 flex that both rails move relatively easily. I have incountered brands that are as you discribe as well brands that are very stiff on both sides.

My point being that the idea of one rail fixed and one moveable does not seem to be universal or even consistant within one manufacturer.

The newer track from Atlas, made in China seems somewhat that way, while its US made predecessor was very slippery on both rails.

Sheldon

[SteamGene]

I've ncountered sections of Atlas code 100 flex track where the side that should slide easily doesn't and has to be worked a bit to loosen up.  It's not very common, but annoying when discovered.  It appears that it's just one small section that causes the binding.
Gene

[pdlethbridge]

If You let the rail slide a little, not completely nailed, this would help with expansion problems. The rails in a helix should be soldered. That is the last place you want to have a problem. Do it once and do it carefully, and you'll never have a problem.

[r.cprmier]

If You let the rail slide a little, not completely nailed, this would help with expansion problems. The rails in a helix should be soldered. That is the last place you want to have a problem. Do it once and do it carefully, and you'll never have a problem.

If you recall, I said avoid joints on radii; however sometimes it cannot be avoided, helixes being one case.  Do keep that sliding rail on the outside, though.  The minute you start switching sides, or worse-laying random, you will rapidly come to grief untold.  Be judicious when making those expansion cuts on that helix, though.  I don't know what radius you are using, but the greater the arc, the better possibility that the above will work admirably and leave you alone.

I use either Walthers, Railine (when I can find it)and Atlas code 83 on main lines, only because it is the most user-friendly out of all makes-in my opinion.  I have not used code 100 in a long while, except for staging yards and other places where it won't show.  I have no gripes about it quality wise; whatever grabs you should be what you use.  I am using code 70 in my yard areas and will use it in the carfloat operation, as it will look a sight better than anything else; 55 is a bit too small to suit my fancy.

Gene; just for the hell of it, sometime check out Central Valley's line of tie strips, and turnout kits.  You may find them an interesting possibility, accentuated  by the "in-between" sizes of the turnouts.

Rich

PS: anyone in Ct going to the prototype meet in Canton this weekend?  See you there, if you are.