2-10-2 pilot truck

[kb2cxj]

I just got a new 2-10-2 yesterday. when I go to run it. the pilot truck comes off and derails the train. I am running on the same turns my 2-8-8-2 + rossy 2-10-2 + 4-8-4 and then some. all have no problem. however, I can see the pilot wheels hits the piston cylinder. it seems the arm were it is screwed on under the loco is a bit to short??? when I take off the pilot it runs great. I know if it was moved up about 1/8 of a inch. that would solve the problem. but being new and under warren tee, that would not be to smart lol,,, dose any one know if there was a possible recall on that part? or a common mod that needs to be done? I could go one or too ways with this problem. the cylinders can be notched so the wheels don't hit them, like mantua did with there Rodgers 4-6-0 & 4-8-0. but that doesn't look scale. and would void the warren tee. or find a longer pilot. bottom line is I am asking you guys if there is an EZ fix, and or am I the only one having this problem? my turns are wide, and much bigger engines run on that track. carefully looking at the pilot from the side on track. the wheels look like they to far back. I know some of you are going to tell me there are 2 holes in the pilot arm. it is mounted in the last hole. and there isn't another hole under the engine to move it up to. before the day is done. I am going to try a longer one from my parts draw. or fabricate one if necessary. it's going nice and smooth threw the turns and switch's with out the pilot truck mounted. but a 0-10-2 is not the answer,,, lol

[OldTimer]

Just out of curiosity, what radius track do you have?
OldTimer

[Atlantic Central]

As asked, what radius are you running it on?

Just because some other loco that you preceive as larger runs around whatever size curve you have, does not mean that this one will or should run around the same curve.

The controlling factor with steam locos and curves, real or model, is the "rigid wheelbase". On a 2-8-8-2 that is only the distance from the center of the front driver to the center of the back driver on each set of drivers!

So if we measure in scale feet, a 2-8-8-2 with 56" drivers typically only has a rigid wheelbase of about 15'.

A 4-8-4 like Bachmann's N&W Class J that only has 70" drivers, has a rigid wheel base of 18'-9".

BUT a USRA light 2-10-2 has rigid wheel base over 21'.

So based on all the laws of phsyics, real or model, a 2-10-2 needs a bigger curve than either loco I mentioned.

Personally, for both operation and appearance I would not think of running that 2-10-2 on anything less than 26"-28" curves.

Sheldon

[bobwrgt]

I'm sure someone is going to tell you the recommended radius for a 2-10-2 is 22in.
I just checked mine that i run on 18in radius. It is very close and tight but makes it.
Check the wheel gauge of all the wheels. If they are to wide it would restrict the play in the pilot truck. If the truck wheels are to wide it will also restrict side play on the turn.
Does this happen in one spot on the track?? Check the track gauge to see if it is undersize. If your track is flex track it might not be a true curve.
Moving the pilot further out or 1/8th longer may make the other wheel hit the back of the cow catcher in a turn.
Another thing to check are the wires between engine and tender they can restrict the swing of the engine rear. Are they free to move.
Are all your drive wheels flanged?? The current model has one driver without flanges.

Bob

[kb2cxj]

I am not sure how to determine my turn radius. I can tell you what I did. I used atlas sections that push together as a templet. marked the layout with the templet. then replaced it with the old type brass flex track. I then ran my big boy threw it okay. then the mallet, 2-8-8-2. even ran the dd40ax. just to make sure there wasn't any side swiping going on. there are 3 tracks side by side. the wires don't seem to be tight. the back of the engine never comes off the track. just the pilot truck and the first 2 drivers. there is only 1 driver not flanged in the center. just like the Rivarossi 2-10-2. that thing will run around the track like a slot car. 300 mph lol.. never derails. I just got a spectrum 2-10-0. it works great. I red somewhere that the 2-10-2 was far better then the 2-10-0. so I got one. it is now the worst engine on my layout. it looks great, runs great in the strait track. is why I am determined to make it work. I was going to get a 2-10-4, and a 4-12-2,   now I am having second thoughts. I am just surprised that the Rivarossi 2-10-2 cheap junk loco, with it's over flanged wheels, and buzzing loud motor. runs threw the tack 10 times better then the spectrum 2-10-2. the wheels on the spectrum don't seem to have the travel left to right it needs to get threw the turns. the pilot truck has room to move forward with out the worry of hitting the cow catcher. I have over 50 steamers. all of them make it threw the tracks with out problem. my layout is 4 X 10. consist of 3 live tracks running 3 trains at the same time. the out side track with the bridge is oval. wide turns. track is 1/2 inch from the edge. the inside tracks go through a 2 track bridge on an slant, resulting in an S turn. still on the outside track. there should be plenty of room to run. like I said. with the pilot off the engine. it works great. I could resolve the problem by replacing 2 more of the flanged wheels with non flanged wheels. but then the stress on the front and back drivers would be to much on the side rods. good buy warrante. I didn't yet check the wheels with a micrometer. as soon as I am done here, that's were I'm going.

[ABC]

The Rivarossi's were made to run on 18" radius while the Bachmann was made to run on 22" radius, I suspect that if you increase the radius your troubles will disappear.

[OldTimer]

The curve radius is 1/2 of the curve diameter.  Since it sounds like you have a track plan that is basically an oval, all you need to do is measure across the oval from centerline to centerline and divide by 2.  Since you have a table that is four feet wide, the maximum radius can't be much more than 22 inches.  Remember, you're measuring from the centerline of the track, which itself is about 1 and 1/8 inches wide over the ties.  Therefore, a 22" radius semi-circle is really about 45 and 1/8" across when measured from the outside edge of the ties.  If you look on the back of a piece of the snap-track that you used for a template, you'll find that Atlas was nice enough to mold a description of the piece into the ties.

You do not need a micrometer to check your wheel gauge.  You need a NMRA standards gauge which has lots of other uses around the layout as well.  You can get one from your LHS or from the NMRA on-line store.  Hope this helps.
OldTimer

[kb2cxj]

Victory is mine again. my turns are 22. it is stamped on the bottom of the track. what I found when I looked under the loco. the wheels were not pressed on all the way to the axles. you could see a few thousandths between the back stop on the axles and the inside of the wheels. they were not all the way on, so the flange on both sides of the wheels were right up against the inside of the track at all times. so what I did was took all the wheels off and pressed them on all the way. that may seem a bit extreme being brand new out of the box under warren tee. but I was reading here on this board some other guys sent there's back to Bachann for the same reason, and got it back with the same problem. they weren't to happy about that. so I fixed it on my own. I am very glad I did. made a world of a difference. it's a great addition to my layout . smooth runner. strong puller. all I can say is if you are going to get one. turn it over and make sure the wheels are all the way on the axles. other wize you work is cut out for you if you decide to fix it your self. all the side rods, and all ten drivers must come off. my next project will be to change out those yellow led's to white led's. I can't recall ever hering of trains having yellow head lites? I am just a scale freak, what can I say...I also read that, that can't be done with out braking parts. wish me luck,, lol  thanks you guys for your input, and taking the time out to help me. I am off to brake in my new steamer 

[Doneldon]

kb-

Actually, early steamers had very yellow headlights as they were kerosene lanterns in front of a reflector.  Once electric lights were installed on locomotives the lights got brighter and whiter, but they still had a distinct yellow cast.  None had pure white or blue-white lamps.  So I suggest that you leave your headlights yellowish as that's what is prototypical.  Good luck while breaking in your new motive power.
                                                                                                               -- D

[RAM]

A few steam locomotives got seal beam headlights and looked just like a diesel coming down the track.