What's the Right Turnout to Use?

Started by BradKT, December 11, 2010, 02:02:03 AM

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BradKT

Once again, I am still trying to get some information about replacing and redesigning at least 2 of my unduly troublesome crossover sections on my E-Z Track layout.  I am seriously thinking of replacing certain sections of this layout with Atlas track.  Assume that I would be using Atlas Code 100 nickel silver track.  I would also be replacing the straight track on both sides of the crossover, probably with Atlas Code 100 flex track.

If you were designing a crossover between two parallel main lines using two turnouts in the middle of a long straight (well over 10', so there is plenty of room), which Atlas turnouts would you use...#4, #6 or #8?  The two lines are not next to each other.  They are approximately 5" apart.  Maybe it was a mistake for me to use 2 Bachmann #5 left hand turnouts each to make these two crossovers.  If you need exact center line measurements between the two tracks, just say so in your response and I will get them for you.

And why would you recommend that particular turnout?

Also, do you have any particular recommendations regarding the type of roadbed to use?

Thank you for your responses.

jward

you certainly have the space to use any of the switches you mentioned. i estimate a number 8 crossover would take up a little over 5 feet on 5" centers, the other sizes would obvioulsy be less.

have you considered an "island" track? you have enough room between your two mains for a short section of third track. the atlas #6 is designed to work with their wye switch to make a configuration like this. you'd have a #6 on each main line, the curved side of each diverging to the space between the two tracks. the wye connects to both of these 6s, and at the other end of your straight you'd have another pair of 6s connected to a wye switch, a mirror image of the first one. run your thrid track between the two wye switches.....

this configuration would give you the ability to cross betwen the two mains in either direction, and can also be used to get a short train out of the way.
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

jbsmith

Just a possible Idea for you,,,one of these,,an interesting alternative to single cross overs,,you may have to adjust
the two tracks to fit

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Shinohara-HO-112-Code-100-Nickle-Silver-6-DC-p/669-112.htm
or
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Shinohara-HO-111-Code-100-Nickle-Silver-4-DC-p/669-111.htm

Roadbed,,this can but trimmed to fit so the roadbed is a single piece

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product-p/woo-st1477.htm
or
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product-p/mid-3030.htm

Ultimately your call of course

5 inches apart?  I would think that #6 or even #8 would do quite well.
I would use the same roadbed above trimmed down to a single piece for the switches.
Hang in there,,you will be receiving other good ideas from other forum members in time.


mabloodhound

For roadbed, I can't say enough about this product.   http://www.homabed.com/site/890800/page/45029

This can also be bought in large sheets at some lumber yards and is called Homasote.   But it can be dusty when cutting it.
Dave Mason

D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
"In matters of style, swim with the current;
in matters of principle, stand like a rock."   Thos. Jefferson

The 2nd Amendment, America's 1st Homeland Security

jward

#4
those scissors crossovers that jb smith posted links to can also be made from atlas components. the shinohara ones in the link will require you to respace your track centers to accomodate them. using atlas components (2 6 left, 2 6 right, 19 degree crossing) you can adjust the track spacing by adding straight sections between the switches and the crossing. i am not sure about the shinohara crossover, but i know the atlas one requires no special wiring. with some types of scissors crossovers, wiring them can be a nightmare .....
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

Joe Satnik

Brad,

Have you learned how to use Anyrail.com yet?

I just whipped together an Atlas code 100  #6 Double crossover with 4.96" between mainline centers, 37.84" long.

Interested? 

Anyrail is easy to learn...  you could design this crossover this afternoon.....

Hint....use the 19 degree crossing (#171).....

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

BradKT

#6
Joe:  Your reply definitely caught my attention!  I am VERY interested and so I went back and took actual measurements,  I am looking at a total of FOUR crossovers (all EZ track) to replace.  I'll just set of the distance between centerlines and the length of the space that I have to work with for each crossover.  

Track 1 is the outside track, track 2 is the middle track and track 3 is the inner track.


1.  Right crossover #1 (from track 2 to track 1):

Distance between center lines of parallel tracks: 4 3/8"
Length of space to work with: 48"


2.  Right crossover #2 (from track 3 to track 2):

Distance between center lines of parallel tracks: 2 3/8"
Length of space to work with: 30"


3.  Left crossover #1 (from track 2 to track 3):
Distance between center lines of parallel tracks: 3 1/4"
Length of space to work with: 72"


4.  Left crossover #2 (from track 1 to track 2):
Distance between center lines of parallel tracks: 3 3/4"
Length of space to work with: 36"


These are the dimensions and available space for the four crossovers most at issue.  I have had MAJOR issues with all four of them.

If it is possible that right crossover #1 could be made into a double crossover, I am all ears.  I could then eliminate left crossover #2.  

Or, I could relocate left crossover #2 and put it in another location where there is another space of about 30" where I could relocate it.  The center lines between tracks is 3 3/4".  This is by far the most troublesome of them all.  I think that I chose a bad original location for it since there is a downhill for the outside track just before you reach left crossover #2 at its present location.

Right crossover #2 can easily be relocated to the same area where left crossover #1 is...that 72" space.    

So as you can see, I have some options and plenty of available space.

I am not familiar with anyrails.com.  Tell me more...much more.  I know that this means major surgery on my layout, but I want to get this exactly right this time.

Who knows, before this is over, I could wind up replacing several curves on this layout as well with Atlas code 100 track...or all of it.  There are several places that are ideal for using  flex track.  If that winds up being the case, so be it.  I am going to get this right this time.

BradKT

#7
Joe: Anyrails is definitely pretty cool!  Thanks for turning me on to it.  It is very easy to use.

I already redesigned one of my troublesome turnouts, saved the file and generated the parts list.  Three more to go.  I'll take my time and do this over the next few days and am not going to rush this.  If there is any slight difference in the distance between the center lines of the parallel tracks the at the crossover and the rest of the layout, I can handle that with flex track.  I am only talking a deviation of about 1/2" or less for all four crossovers and would have plenty of room to install some flex track.

Yeah, I realize now that I blew some money by going the EZ-track route originally.  There is nothing wrong with EZ-track, but it is for beginners doing simple layouts.  I have decided that a lot (if not all) of it is going to be replaced.  By the time that I finish doing this and dealing with a couple of curves (which are a lot simpler to fix than crossovers), a great deal of my track will have been replaced by Atlas Code 100 track.

I have no idea how you designed that double crossover though.  My E-mail address is Bradfordtalamon@att.net if you want to send me anything.  If I could do that, I could completely eliminate that troublesome left crossover#2 at its present location and just have straight track there.

Thank you very much.

BradKT

Okay, I figured out how to do the redesigned double crossover using 4 #6 turnouts.  Now I can crossovers in only two areas of my layout instead of 4.

Thanks...a lot!  Now I have some measuring to do in order to get the exact specs.

Joe Satnik

Hi, Brad.

We got around 2 feet of snow on Saturday, been kinda busy since then.  Have not had time to read your replies. 

I'll read them in detail and get back to you later today, in the mean time, you should have a copy of

"Atlas Custom-Line Layouts for HO Scale Railroads, 2nd ed.",  by John Armstrong. 

I have seen 1971, 1975, and 1978 printings in various places on-line.

http://www.amazon.com/Atlas-custom-line-layouts-scale-railroads/dp/B0006XKC68/ref=cm_pdp_imgs_itm_title_6

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

jward

i believe that book has been re-released as "Atlas HO Layouts for Every Space."
any decent hobby shop should have a copy. there is an appendix in the back which has many track configurations laid out with dimensions such as track pieces used, overall length, and track centers.

Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

Joe Satnik

Thanks, jward.

The modern "Atlas HO Layouts for Every Space" that you pointed out covers Atlas layouts HO-13 through HO-23.

The important track configuration info that I hope to convey is indeed in the appendix of the earlier Armstrong book.  The newer book may have updates to that section.  (Newer track pieces since 1970's?)

The 1971 second edition covers track plans 201 through 210, which translate over to the modern HO-13 through 16, and HO-19 through 23, plus the huge "Big Pan Handle" layout which I can't find a modern HO- number for.  (Must have been discontinued.)

Again, thanks.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.