couplers/hitches on ho stock

[gandy dancer#1]

OKAY, guess im missing something here.  any suggestions on fine tuning the cheesy little couplers on  a bachman set?? train goes around 10 or 12 times then one of the cars turns loose, hook it back, and another 10 or12 and different one, and by the way excuse my ignorance, what are the little black wires hanging down off coupler in a u shape??? nothing in the paperwork sent in set?? do i need to buy a book explaining all this?

[Doneldon]

gd-

Bachmann couplers are good; Kadee couplers are best. It's
possible to use them both on a pike but I know many
modelers, myself included, who put Kadees on everything
and have few to no coupler problems (assuming correct
installation, height, etc.).
                                                            -- D

[rrmchone]

you might want to use kadee couplers or e-z mate from bachmann either 2 are best

[RAM]

The last part of your question.   what are the little black wires hanging down off coupler in a u shape??? nothing in the paperwork sent in set?? do i need to buy a book explaining all this.  They are the uncoupling pins.  As far as your cars uncoupling , make sure your track is level. 

[gandy dancer#1]

Well slap me twice So am presuming these are the contacts for the magnetic uncoupling system?? I really cant say enough thanks to all of  you willing to answer my questions, the info available here is priceless, glad youguys dont charge for it, I would have to borrow money from warren buffett to pay!!!!

[jward]

do your cars uncouple in the same spot every time? if so, i'd look for a hump or dip in the track. on rough track the coupler knuckles can ride up over one another. on smooth track they should stay coupled.....

[bobwrgt]

Make sure all those couplers are level with each other and making full contact when coupled. You may have one to high or to low. Also check those pins to see if they are centered or not bent out to the side. They can hit the rail on curves. If to low they might also hit the center of the track.

Bob

[mabloodhound]

You really should be able to continue using the Bachmann couplers.   I suspect there is something in your track (unlevel, hump, dip, etc.) that is causing your disconnect.   Lay a straight edge (ruler) along the top of your rails to check this.

Watch the cars closely as they run around to see if the coupler's pins are too low or catching on the ties.   These can be bent up (very carefully) or removed if you don't use the magnetic uncouple feature.

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Watch the cars closely as they run around to see if the coupler's pins are too low or catching on the ties.   These can be bent up (very carefully) or removed if you don't use the magnetic uncouple feature.

FWIW, I recently had an uncoupling issue. Turned out the coupler was hanging a bit low, and the pin was catching and uncoupling when the car rolled through the EZ-Track terminal-rerailer.

[rrmchone]

once you get the couplers that you are looking for you look to see if there are switches on your layout and if there is and you dont have level track then the little U shaped hook on the bottom of the coupler take some wire cutters and snip a little piece of them off because once in a while your couplers might begin to get caught in the frog on the switch or the rails that move.

[JerryB]

<snip> . . . take some wire cutters and snip a little piece of them off because once in a while your couplers might begin to get caught in the frog on the switch or the rails that move.

THAT IS BAD ADVICE! Don't cut the pins (actually simulated air hoses) on the couplers.

If you have any thought of using the remote uncoupling feature of the Kadee-type couplers (Bachmann couplers are copies of the original Kadee coupler), you will need the full length of the uncoupler 'hose.' Just use a plier to gently reshape the hose so it clears whatever it is dragging on.

Micro-Mark sells a plier that is specially shaped to allow you to easily reshape the uncoupler pins so the will not drag on switches or other between the rail items such as uncoupling magnets or road crossings. The Kadee instructions and their website both have information on how to ensure the 'hoses' don't drag.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

[railsider]

GD, it sounds like the most logical advice you've received has been to figure out if all the "incidents" happen at the same spot on the track, maybe at two or three spots where they repeat. That would point to a small dip or hump in the track that is the cause. Check out those spots, and use a reliable straight edge, like a carpenter's torpedo level, to see it there is a problem ... and fix it. 

[Joe323]

Are the couplers Bachmann EZ Mate of the better EZ Mate Mark II which have the the visible metal springs on one side.  Whether you decide to go with Mark II or Kadees try to use the same type of coupler thoughout .  Your trains will behave nicer if you do.

[richg]

I have been modeling HO for many years. I always fine tune the couplers on any rolling stock or locos, FIRST.
The people who have the trip pins catching on stuff are not fine tuning there stuff.
This stuff is mass produced. Assume it will not be correct out of the box.

Try to stick with one brand of couplers. I prefer Kadee as they are more rugged than the EZ Mate. Yeah, the Kadee are grossly over size but were are playing with toys.

For my old time stuff, I use the Kadee old time coupler, 711. More to scale.
There are more to scale couplers available from Kadee if you prefer.
Get the Kadee couple alignment fixture and the trip pin pliers.
Try to follow the instructions. It will help immensely.

Rich

[NarrowMinded]

Best advise here is check the track, run your finger over both rails at the joint.  my girls often miss the rail joiner when snapping EZ track together leaving one rail higher then the other, Also bending the coupler pins as needed to clear the top of the rails and other track details. someone mentioned the springs, check all the couplers to make sure they are closing, on rare occasions I find a spring will pop out.

NM