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Beginning scenery ?

Started by Tedshere, April 30, 2011, 05:31:25 PM

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Tedshere

   Trying to figure out if making scenery, (hills, mountains, a tunnel) is best done on the layout or off site then fixed to the proper location.
    My concern is the possibility of the wet plaster cloth trashing my painted 1inch foamboard base during construction of scenery.
    I have plenty of screen, some plaster cloth, newspaper for wadding and plenty of cardboard I can make into strips.
     I'll feel a lot better about starting this project after hearing from a few experienced RR's
    As always, thanks guys!!!
    Ted
Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy.
Ted
Kalkaska, Michigan

Jerrys HO

scenery is always to me easier done on the layout and painting (even the foam) done last. off the layout is harder to achieve what you are looking at and eventually is not what you wanted after you put it on the layout. you can cover your painted foam and build your mountains tunnels,etc. then touch up any mistakes.

Doneldon

Ted-

I'm with Jerry. Scenery is easier on the layout. Protect your track with 2" wide masking tape. Plaster gauze doesn't have to be a big mess. Protect adjacent areas with newspaper or put the cloth on dry and then spray it well with water. Adjust while it's still wet and you're in business without a giant slop to clean up.
                                                                                                            -- D

jward

i'm kinda puzzled as to how you'd make scenery at the workbench, then trasnport it to the layout without damaging it. plaster scenery can be very heavy, and chips easily when handled. on a layout, it isn't handled so it doesn't chip, plus you won't have to move it and risk pulling a muscle.

woodland scenics has a very good how-to book on scenery, and i believe a dvd as well.....

good luck.
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

Tedshere

    Hey Jward,  having never dealt with plaster of any sort before, I was puzzled about the entire process. Had no idea of the weight or the chipping propensity. On the other hand I have dealt pulled muscles!
    By posting here, my dilemma was solved. And as usual, the solution seems so simple once its explained. Instead of sitting here wondering how to get started, I can now move on.
    Thanks to all for the info, and I'll check out the offering from Woodland Scenics.
    Ted
Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy.
Ted
Kalkaska, Michigan

mabloodhound

Joe Fugate has an entire series on scenery and much info can be found in his free http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/ e-zine.
Many of the other RR forums also have specific threads dealing with scenery tips you will find helpful. 8)
Dave Mason

D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
"In matters of style, swim with the current;
in matters of principle, stand like a rock."   Thos. Jefferson

The 2nd Amendment, America's 1st Homeland Security

Len

There are lots of books out there on how to do scenery. Personally, I find the Woodland Scenics scenery "how to" book to be a very good source of information. It's less expensive them most of the others, and spiral bound so it lays flat when open. Unlike some of the magazine style books. Even though it's by Woodland Scenics, the techniques apply no matter who's material your using.

Watching videos to see how other people do things is also good. But it's hard to make notes in the margins of a DVD or YouTube video.

Len
If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.

Doneldon

#7
Ted-

The weight thing may be oversold unless the scenery is a really big piece. However, chipping is an issue, even when scenery is built right on the layout. A way to minimize that problem is to color yoour plaster so that chips aren't brightwhite. That won't work with plaster cloth, though.

                                                                                                          -- D

Len

It's possible to dye plaster cloth. I thin down 'raw umber' or 'burnt sienna' acrylic paints into a slurry. I then slowly add this slurry to a 1/2 gallon jug of warm water until it takes on a hue I'm happy with. Then I pour the "dirt water" it into a stainless steel dry wallers "mud" pan, until it's about 2/3 full. Dip 12" - 18" long strips of plaster cloth in the mud pan to wet it per the plaster cloth instructions. The plaster cloth gets stained enough by the colored water to hide the occasional chip.

Len
If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.

Doneldon

Len-

Thanks. I learned something today. I usually wet my cloth right on the layout. I think I'll try coloring my water.

                                                                                         -- D