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Author Topic: New Locomotive Suggestions  (Read 21371 times)
J3a-614

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« Reply #45 on: September 06, 2011, 11:48:53 PM »

That's an example of a Baldwin logging Mike, similar to the Oregon, Pacific & Eastern engine mentioned above.  Other examples include California Western's 45, and a pair of 2-8-2s on the Sierra Railroad.  There used to be many others.
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ryeguyisme

Heavy Mountain Steam


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« Reply #46 on: September 07, 2011, 01:46:22 PM »

and it looks alot like the engine we have working on the Valley Railroad here in essex, I would definitely pick up a few with sound. I'm already making plans to purchase a few of the moguls
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jim margerum

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« Reply #47 on: September 07, 2011, 09:11:57 PM »

I'd like to see the Maryland & Pennsylvania roster continued with a Consolidated with and without feedwater heater. Also the correct 0-6-0 with slopeback tender.
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CNE Runner


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« Reply #48 on: September 08, 2011, 11:32:36 AM »

This thread has taken on a life of its own..."if wishes were wings..." OK, I'll put in my two cents: How about an early American 4-4-0 of the same quality as Bachmann's excellent modern 4-4-0? To model the Civil War, and late 19th century we are left with the less than desireable AHM/Pocher/IHC/Bachmann units (think: Jupiter). With the technological advances, and miniaturization, in today's market place surely we can do better. On the other hand this would be a small, niche market that probably wouldn't justify the expense. Oh well...

Regards,
Ray
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"Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on the rail"
glennk28

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« Reply #49 on: September 08, 2011, 12:17:46 PM »

That OP&E Mike--#19--has been back on the Yreka Western for many years ago.  It is presently  undergoinmg repairs at Yreka.  Sister #18 is at the V&T. in service.  gj




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ebtnut

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« Reply #50 on: September 08, 2011, 01:26:33 PM »

I agree with CNE that a Civil War-era 4-4-0 (the William Mason comes to mind) would be an excellent choice.  I'm sentimental for the early Ma & Pa 2-8-0's, which fit in better with the Richmond 4-4-0 and the 4-6-0, but would also be happy with the modern Ma & Pa 2-8-0's as well.  I also agree with the early comments on the thread about the need for a nice medium to heavy Mike.  A Harriman style would be a good alternative to the USRA locos, though my personal favorite is the B&O Q-4b. 
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Johnson Bar Jeff

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« Reply #51 on: September 08, 2011, 10:23:13 PM »

I agree with CNE that a Civil War-era 4-4-0 (the William Mason comes to mind) would be an excellent choice.  I'm sentimental for the early Ma & Pa 2-8-0's, which fit in better with the Richmond 4-4-0 and the 4-6-0.

Both excellent suggestions!
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ryeguyisme

Heavy Mountain Steam


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« Reply #52 on: September 09, 2011, 01:08:38 AM »

Just a side note but not completely off topic

I was talking to a postmaster the other day while shipping out my sold items and he said hes heard that brass engines are really expensive, and I replied stating that my generation onwards would care less for such models and the price would soon diminish, simply due to video games and online media taking the world by storm. He asked if I was sure, then I told him about older generation brass and how cheap its become due to inflation and lower demand. What keeps bachmann progressively moving forward is it's quality and sound with digital command control competing against open frame coffee grinders modelled from engines of a previous century and I must say bachmann has surpassed many of my expectations in many ways with prototypes not produced anywhere else besides brass and I'm grateful. Now the alco 2-6-0 and the EM-1 are coming out, both a nice surprise and both never done nicely(or at all) besides brass while at the same time the quality and dcc added at a still lower cost compared to brass, I applaud you bachmann! and shall keep my fingers cross for the next exciting steam locomotive
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Doneldon

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« Reply #53 on: September 09, 2011, 01:00:55 PM »

rye-

You have some interesting points on loco prices, and brass in particular. Actually, it's only the older brass which is affordable today, though.

When brass made its big entry into the market in the late 50s and early 60s, the prices were anywhere from $50-60 all the way up to a couple of hundred. That was prohibitively expensive, especially on a teenager's nonexistent salary. Today those early locos mostly sell for $200 - $450, probably less than inflation, and I have a little more money so they have grown affordable. But, and this is a big BUT, high-quality new brass is very expensive. It's rare to see a completely brass current production loco for less than $1000 in HO and they can go much, much higher. And if that sounds outrageous, check O-scale brass! So they're unaffordable again.

I have found that good quality older brass locos which have been tuned by a former owner (just about always necessary in the old days) can be an excellent value. Also, a couple of manufacturers have "hybrid" locos which are a mixture of brass, die cast and plastic; these look pretty good to me. And I absolutely agree that the quality of plastic locos is worlds ahead of what it was even ten or 20 years ago. That's true both operationally and in appearance. So while I have a fairly large brass fleet, I mostly depend on the newer plastic locos for daily duties.

Thanks for your post.
                                                -- D

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Johnson Bar Jeff

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« Reply #54 on: September 09, 2011, 01:43:56 PM »

When brass made its big entry into the market in the late 50s and early 60s, the prices were anywhere from $50-60 all the way up to a couple of hundred. That was prohibitively expensive, especially on a teenager's nonexistent salary. Today those early locos mostly sell for $200 - $450.

I can vouch for that. Literally--I'm not kidding--yesterday, I paid just above that lower end sum for a vintage brass engine (my second). Even now, I still had to justify the purchase to myself on the grounds that it was something I've wanted since I was a teen, a Gem NYC #999 4-4-0. I hope it can be brought into good running condition, though mainly it will be a display piece--and either way I'll be very glad to have it.

Incidentally, my first vintage brass engine, bought earlier this summer for a comparable price, was a Gem PRR D16sb 4-4-0--something else I've wanted since youth, with the added incentive that I used to ride behind the prototype on the Strasburg Rail Road when she was still operable.
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ebtnut

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« Reply #55 on: September 12, 2011, 01:42:40 PM »

My first brass loco was an Olympia Ma and Pa 4-6-0 (yes, the same prototype as the Bachmann model) for $29.95!  It ran quite well for a model with an open frame motor.  I was (and still am, to a certain degree) a big Ma and Pa fan.  At one time I owned every Ma and Pa brass piece, locos and cars.  Switched to On3 in the mid-1970's and sold almost all of it off.  Still have the Alco Models No. 6, which I had to almost toally redetail to make it correct.  Since I've joined an HO club (it is still On3 at home), I've started to assemble some more HO motive power, so now I have the Bachmann Ma and Pa 4-6-0, and both the No. 4 and No. 6 4-4-0's.  I also still have the original Westwood Ma and Pa passenger train from the 2-car kit that had the RPO and coach. 
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Johnson Bar Jeff

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« Reply #56 on: September 13, 2011, 12:03:59 PM »

My first brass loco was an Olympia Ma and Pa 4-6-0 (yes, the same prototype as the Bachmann model) for $29.95!

 Shocked  Thud!

(Recovers quickly from dead faint)

The Gem #999 arrived yesterday. She runs pretty darn good, and to my delight, it turns out that she has a working headlight--and the headlight actually works! The engine looks appropriate with a string of the Roundhouse-now-Athearn 50-foot Overland cars. Now all I have to do is find some with NYC lettering. (Somebody has a set listed on eBay right now for buy-it-now at $95, but those cars are not worth $95. I'm not "biting.")

The engine has an open-frame motor, and she would probably run a little better and a little quieter with a drop of oil here and there, but at the present time I do not have the nerve to try to figure out how to take her apart in order to get at the motor bearings. This is a used engine and it came without the original box or any original paperwork.

Same deal with the D16, except she did come in her original box. She ran a couple of feet on the layout and then came to a dead stop. I suspect she also only needs lubrication and breaking in, but, again, I'm afraid to try to take her apart. Right now she's resting in a small display case in the center of the dining room table, between Grandma's sterling candlesticks, where I can look at her over my supper every evening.  Grin

Someone has an Aristocraft FP #999 listed on eBay now, starting at $150. I don't know whether that engine is brass or not.
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Doneldon

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« Reply #57 on: September 13, 2011, 12:58:09 PM »

J-J

I'm pretty sure that the Aristo 999 is brass.

                                  -- D
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ryeguyisme

Heavy Mountain Steam


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« Reply #58 on: September 13, 2011, 05:56:18 PM »

My HO D&RGW 4-8-2 M-75 is probably the best brass I've bought to date, can take a 22 inch radius runs smooth(after I messed with the running gear some) weighs about 3 pounds(boiler filled with lead to the max) and I have yet to test it's pulling power. Miraculously my bridges can take it's hefty weight. Best $250 spent+details and some paint work. next will be adding a tsumani sound decoder
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