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Need information on Bachman 0-6-0,s

Started by ejseider, October 30, 2011, 09:39:49 PM

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ejseider

I'm looking at getting a steam switch engine, either an 0-6-0 saddle tank (Bachman #81811 for example) or an 0-6-0 with slope tender (Bachman #353 for example).  Bachman does not provide much information about these in the on-line catalog.  Are the shells plastic or die cast?  How well do they run?  What features do they have (lights, smoke, etc.)?  How easy (or difficult) are they to convert to DCC & sound? etc, etc.  Any information would be appreciated.

jettrainfan

both are plastic. The saddle tank is more of an industrial switch... got 9 cars pulled once... but i don't go passed 5 half the time. For its size, its a good runner. it has lighting, and figures in the cab, good amount of detail.

The 0-6-0 with slope tender is a engine i like for long road trains, got 15 cars once, but try to keep it at 10. This engine is less detailed then the saddle tank, but for the price, they even out. smoke is included but i don't recommend using it. My track has been getting dirty lately, and it still runs fine. A good engine for someone who is starting in the hobby or is looking for a smaller tender engine to do some yard work.

Sound... i cant help ya on that one. But when it comes down to which one to buy, its basically what your looking for.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZL7jR1cRb4             

This is how i got my name and i hope that you guys like it.

http://www.youtube.com/user/jettrainfan?feature=mhw4
youtube account

jward

the 0-6-0 tender engine does not hVE  working front coupler. i am sure you could add one, but it wouldn't be an easy fix. i am pretty sure the tank engine has working couplers both ends. i don't know if that matters to you, but it does make the 0-6-0 less useful in yard or local service.
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

on30gn15

#3
Have the Seaboard 0-6-0 with Vanderbilt tender and it runs fine for me.

See in catalog listings that series is coming out with DCC installed http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=3356
Sound - would expect a bit of thinkering in the tender would take care of that.
Wonder where the DCC board is in the new ones? Milling out frames would reduce weight for tractive effort. Tender mounted chip would require new wiring to tender.

Mechanism has standard split frame and can motor with plastic body.
Motor drives on center axle via gears.
Drivers have between 1mm and 1/16in side play, whatever curve you want it going around, it will.
My understanding is that 0-6-0T has belt drive like 4-6-0: don't have 0-6-0T, would eventually like to get one .


Loco only picks up electricity for motor, tender trucks and wheels are all plastic.

Replaced tender trucks on mine with sprung KaDee trucks, just because.
Might figure out how to wire them to feed power to reverse light, there is no part for that.
Used light casting from IHC 0-8-0 tender and might use trucks from same, they are set up to pick up electricity.

Put metal KaDee coupler in tender using one with shank offset low to get right knuckle height. That's the SAL's Vanderbilt tender, slope back may or may not be same.

Also pried off tender drawbar, drilled new screw hole and shortened it a bit, looks better to me.

Boiler/body detail except for handrails and electric turbogenerator is molded on. Sketchy outlines of backhead detail, other than that, cab is empty space.
Boiler casting dates from at least 1980s.
Cab roof is separate part held on by screw from up under top of backhead.
Stack sides are nice and thin, thinner than even Evergreen or Plastruct styrene tube.
could stand to have "bumps" representing air compressor on fireman's side and power reverser on  engineer's side carved off and replaced with Cal Scale or other maker's parts. Might or might not go through that effort on mine - someday.

Headlight is sort of a "plug" which fits in a socket between split frames.
working out how to run wiring to aftermarket LED in headlight casting.

Paint finish on this SAL one was superb, smooth with lettering clear and crisp.
When all esle fials, go run trains
Screw the Rivets, I'm building for Atmosphere!
later, Forrest

on30gn15

#4
I don't have the saddle tanker, so went Googling.
Found this review of the 0-6-0T on Model Railroader's website.
Text from 2005
QuoteHome » Forums » Model Railroader Forums » General Discussion (Model Railroader) » Product Review Please--Spectrum 0-6-0 Saddle Tank Switcher.

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/p/35851/461933.aspx

Comment that it hunts/wobbles a bit - is prototypical, think of forces of cylinders thrusting on such a short wheelbase

Comment on not much haulage capability - again, is prototypical - Kalmbach's Steam Locomotive Cyclopedia remarks on page 28,
"A typical cut for an 0-6-0 was about six cars while an 0-8-0 might shove some 20 cars over the hump."

Can also tell you the 0-6-0T is popular with the On30 crowd, at least a couple outfits sell an O-scale body conversion for it.
When all esle fials, go run trains
Screw the Rivets, I'm building for Atmosphere!
later, Forrest

rogertra

An 0-6-0 is an engine with a tender.

An 0-6-0T is an engine without a tender and the water is carried in side tanks either side of the boiler.

An 0-6-0ST is an engine without a tender and the water is carried in a saddle tank that straddles the tender like a saddle.

An 0-6-0PT is an engine without a tender and the water is carried in two tanks either side of the boiler suspended like saddlebags so that there is a gap under the tanks between the bottom of the tanks and the running boards so as to provide access to any motion between the frames.

An 0-6-0WT is an engine without a tender and the water is carried in a well tank located between the frames.

Ditto for other wheel arrangements.  The prefixes are VERY important and differentiate between tender and non-tender engines so that we all know what we are discussing.  Tender engines, or tank engines.

jonathan

I have both the 0-6-0 (slope back tender) and the 0-6-0T.

Both run very well.

Both need weight for tracking and better electrical contact with the rails.

I add weight everywhere I can in the 0-6-0's, including lead for the smoke receptacle.  I don't use smoke.

The new 0-6-0s are DCC on board.  Decoder in on top of the split frame, inside the loco boiler.  Clipping the wires for the smoker does not adversely affect the performance of the locomotive.  If you like smoke, the new locos have an on/off switch in the cab, for times when you don't run smoke.

I just posted a potential solution the to front coupler issue.

I also add tender pick up wheels and run wires to the frame of the loco.  This helps when passing through turnouts with unpowered frogs.

Both types of locos run fine.  The 0-6-0T requires some break in time to smooth it out.  It will be a bit rough at first.

on30gn15

Quote from: jonathan on October 31, 2011, 06:48:53 AM
I just posted a potential solution the to front coupler issue.
Looked at it, well worth trying. Might even do today.
When all esle fials, go run trains
Screw the Rivets, I'm building for Atmosphere!
later, Forrest

ejseider

Thanks to all.  This is great information.  I currently run DC, but am thinking about DCC in the future when I have a bit more time and $.  I've been looking to add a switcher, and it's getting time to think about Christmas wish lists, so I guess that I can add these to mine.