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Battery powerand rcs?

Started by lrparks, July 17, 2007, 08:45:33 AM

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lrparks

For those who run battery power and remote control. I have three 3' tunnels in my line. If I switch to battery and remote control will my trains loose signal in the tunnels? I'm new to RC and I'm not sure about RC interference problems and if the RC unit must keep in constant contact with the loco. ??? ;D

Tony Walsham

Quote from: lrparks on July 17, 2007, 08:45:33 AM
For those who run battery power and remote control. I have three 3' tunnels in my line. If I switch to battery and remote control will my trains loose signal in the tunnels? I'm new to RC and I'm not sure about RC interference problems and if the RC unit must keep in constant contact with the loco. ??? ;D

The RCS TX handpiece does not need to be in constant touch with the receiver/controller in the loco.
Once the onboard equipment has received a command it remembers that command until told to do something else.
Depending on how deep and how long the tunnel is, and what it is constructed of, like all R/C equipment, it may be difficult to stop and start a loco whilst it is inside the tunnel.  That can usually be achieved by placing the TX handpiece on the track and the signal will be inducted via the rails into the loco. 
Rest assured, that unlike digital proportional control, the loco will not go out of control from loss of signal.
Tony Walsham
Founding member of the battery Mafia.


(Remote Control Systems).

lrparks

Thanks for the info.

On that note I'm planning on purchasing an Annie Big Hauler D&RGW or ET&WNC(can't decide which). Can you suggest a battery/remote control system? I'm not familiar with the RCS TX. Do you know of any how to articles on the web?

altterrain

If you go to Tony's site http://www.rcs-rc.com/ under the top menu heading of "Large Scale" click on "How To" and there is a list of many articles on installs. None specific for the ten wheeler but there is plenty of room in the tender.
I worked up a trailer car RC system from RCS for my Bachmann bashed Dunkirk. I have a 14.4v 3.6 Ah NiMH pack for it and get over 5 hours of run time with it.



-Brian
President of

lrparks

Thanks again. Very helpful.

new G

 lrpark
I was planning on using aluminum track, but since alumimum track is a poor choice for voltage transferance, I now plan on using stainless track instead and I am going to fabricate my own R/C control and I am also going to fabricate my own 2 channel R/X AND T/X, the R/X will not be battery powered and will use the track voltage to power the R/X and the electronic direction, speed control that I will also fabricate fabricate myself.
I will be able to use the track voltage, no matter what it will be by using the appropriate resistor to reduce the track voltage to whatever voltage is required by the R/X and the electronic speed, voltage controller. Only the T/X will be battery operated. I also believe that if you use a R/C system that is FM, PCM based operation that you will have no problem with  tunnels etc.

Curmudgeon

Quote from: new G on July 17, 2007, 11:56:48 AM
lrpark
I was planning on using aluminum track, but since alumimum track is a poor choice for voltage transferance, I now plan on using stainless track instead and I am going to fabricate my own R/C control and I am also going to fabricate my own 2 channel R/X AND T/X, the R/X will not be battery powered and will use the track voltage to power the R/X and the electronic direction, speed control that I will also fabricate fabricate myself.
I will be able to use the track voltage, no matter what it will be by using the appropriate resistor to reduce the track voltage to whatever voltage is required by the R/X and the electronic speed, voltage controller. Only the T/X will be battery operated. I also believe that if you use a R/C system that is FM, PCM based operation that you will have no problem with  tunnels etc.

Lots of luck.
Better re-visit the "since alumimum track is a poor choice for voltage transferance" part.
Then, look at 30%, 40%, and 100% price increases on Brass track, with a promise that SS will also be in the same boat.
Factor in clamps.
Factor in wiring, feeders, etc.
Factor in the cost of high enough amperage power supplies to actually drive the loco, with grades, longer trains, tighter curves.
We won't even get into wet ballast yet, but that's another entire portion of the equation.
Then, using resistors to drop power is a VERY poor choice of control:  "I will be able to use the track voltage, no matter what it will be by using the appropriate resistor to reduce the track voltage to whatever voltage is required by the R/X and the electronic speed, voltage controller.
Have fun, and report back your success.

japasha

Hold on. Aluminum is the better conductor if you can't get brass.  While it isn't as low in internal resistance as copper or brass, it is a good conductor when compared to steel or stainless steel.

lrparks

I have had trouble locating a good source for aluminum track. Any sugestions? I have already purchase a large amount of USA brass track, but I eventually want to add to my line using cheaper aluminum rack since I will be converting to battery and remote control. If I expand using aluminum I will add a plastic coupler between the brass and aluminum to avoid the dissimilar metal coupling problems.

JerryB

#9
Quote from: japasha on July 17, 2007, 02:54:17 PM
Hold on. Aluminum is the better conductor if you can't get brass.  While it isn't as low in internal resistance as copper or brass, it is a good conductor when compared to steel or stainless steel.
Aluminum metal is an excellent conductor. The aluminum oxide (Al2O3 or "alumina") that forms on the surface of aluminum is one of the best insulators available, as well as being a very hard material. Not a very good choice for track power.

Happy RRing,

Jerry
Sequoia Pacific RR in 1:20 / 70.6mm
Boonville Light & Power Co. in 1:20 / 45mm
Navarro Engineering & Construction Co. in 1:20 / 32mm
NMRA Life Member #3370
Member: Bay Area Electric Railway Association
Member: Society for the Preservation of Carter Railroad Resources

altterrain

Quote from: lrparks on July 17, 2007, 03:12:18 PM
I have had trouble locating a good source for aluminum track. Any sugestions? I have already purchase a large amount of USA brass track, but I eventually want to add to my line using cheaper aluminum rack since I will be converting to battery and remote control. If I expand using aluminum I will add a plastic coupler between the brass and aluminum to avoid the dissimilar metal coupling problems.

Llagas Creek - http://www.llagastrack.com/pricelist.html
Split Jaw makes special code 332 to 250 rail joiners - http://www.railclamp.com/displayCategory.jsp?categoryId=9&vId=20784

-Brian

President of

calenelson

#11
My RCS gear operates fine in and outside of my tunnels.  The longest is right around 10' long, covered with a few feet of dirt.....



It's not a line of sight type control, so it "works" over, under, and around "things".

I can trigger all functions whilst the train is 'under ground'

hope some of this helped...

cale

for the other a link to a Llagas dealer....

http://dnkgoods.home.mindspring.com/index.html

lrparks

Wow calenelson that's a long tunnel :o. Have you had any problems with it like keeping it cleaned out.

calenelson

no problems yet!

here is a b4 shot


Curmudgeon

Quote from: japasha on July 17, 2007, 02:54:17 PM
Hold on. Aluminum is the better conductor if you can't get brass.  While it isn't as low in internal resistance as copper or brass, it is a good conductor when compared to steel or stainless steel.

That's what I said when I told him to re-visit that issue.