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Table height???

Started by mdmeyers1982, January 27, 2012, 09:08:10 PM

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mdmeyers1982

Back again.. with another question  ;D  I'm really having fun planning this build.

So... I'm 6'3 tall... and I want a nice layout at a decent level. My question for you all is this... what is a desired height that most people seem to use? is there any kind of "standard".. maybe something clubs use to get the best effect of the scenery?

I know this sounds like a silly question, but once again looking for suggestions.

I also wanted to know if maybe there were some hidden deals out there that a certain height could be to my advantage.... maybe a good price on tables/legs that some people know about ? (I plan on using 2x4's at this point unless someone can suggest better)

Its a boring Friday night.. my girl is still at work... and I'm about to head to Home Depot to do some "window shopping"

Cheers!

Johnson Bar Jeff

Quote from: florynow on January 27, 2012, 09:54:54 PM
Mine is 36" because of my windows in the rooms my layout is in.  I sit in a rolling office chair when i operate the railroad. 

Mine is only 29 inches high--but that's because once upon a time the base used to be my dining room table.   ::)  ;D

I don't recommend that low height, but at least I can reach all the way across the layout if something derails on the back stretch. (The table has to sit against a wall.)

Doneldon

mdm-

Railroads are built at different heights because railroads are different. Owners come in different sizes. Physical characteristics of the space, like windows, door locations and ceiling heights (think attic) are different. The natures of the models are different; you'll likely want a different height for a railroad with towering mountains than one set in the agricultural heartland. Maybe the railroad is planned for one level, or two or even three. Each arrangement demands different height parameters. Too, wider railroads work better a little lower while narrow railroads can be a bit higher. All of that said, there are some guidelines.

Model railroaders used to make their railroads relatively low, say 36" or so above the floor. That's fine for someone in a chair but too low for an adult who won't appreciate all of the bending necessary to work on such a low surface, not to mention crawling under it for wiring or repairs. Plus, our railroads look much more realistic when viewed from a shallow angle than from a bird's eye perspective. So ... a single deck model railroad would generally be sited at 48" - 54" above the floor unless there are specific reasons to do otherwise. That height makes it a lot easier to work underneath, to tuck a workbench underneath or to set up a nod-under rather than a duck-under access to the inside of an around the walls layout, a very popular arrangement these days. Learning points? Don't set your layout height until you have a trackplan, or at least a pretty good idea of one, and have considered the specifics of your physical location, your own physical chrteristics and the features of your proposed model railroad.

As far as construction goes, I strongly urge you to at least check on line for information about how to build a model railroad. Better would be to talk with people at a nearby club layout, seek model railroading magazines at the library, talk to a knowledgeable someone at your LHS or go to Kalmbach Publishing (on line) and buy one of their books on layout construction. Just one little tease to get you going -- 2x4s are way bigger than you need for legs and will not work as well or be as strong as lighter duty legs can be! And, they'll cost more.
                                                                                           -- D

rogertra

Mine will be around 50" high as I like the close to eyelevel view.  My railway will also be around the walls and only 36" at its widest point.  There will be no track only scenery in the rear 9 inches so reaching the rear tracks to uncouple won't be an issue.


jward

i prefer a table height between 36 and 48 inches. lower and you have a hard time getting underneath to work on the wiring, switch motors, etc.... higher and you have a hard time working on things topside.....

like everything else in this hobby, table height is a matter of compromise and personal preference.
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

Jim Banner

The rail height on my home layout varies from 36" to 60".  The scenery varies from about 24" to 84".  I works for me and the fellows I model with.  When children visit the layout, they are given chairs to stand on (putting the chair backs toward the layout and a little more than an arm's length away gives a child something to hold onto and keeps little fingers from getting into trouble.)  When half a dozen adults are operating the layout, they find it easier to see over scenery, buildings and other trains on the lower parts.  On the highest tracks, they often step up a couple of steps for a better view.  Conclusion: 36" to 45" is a good range of heights for operating.

Our group's large scale portable layout is only 30" off the floor.  This is a great height for kids standing up and parents sitting down.  It probably contributes to its popularity at shows - the kids often march endlessly around with our trains and the parents are glad of a rest.  With other layouts, the kids often have to carry a stool (which fixes them in one place) or have to be held up by a parent (which shortens the length of their visits.)  In extreme cases, we have youngsters visiting our trains for three or four hours, then wanting their parents to bring them back the next day.  And we often have parents, particularly mothers, thanking us for having our layout so low.  At one show, we actually had a nearby vendor come over and give us a couple of pieces of large scale rolling stock because our table was so low - long visits by kids meant bored fathers wandering over to his table and buying stuff.  Apparently, it was the best weekend's sales he had ever had.  Another advantage of low tables is that us old geezers get to sit down to run the trains.  As age creeps up on us, it gets harder and harder to be standing up for 8 or 10 hours for days in a row.  Conclusion: 30" is a great height for a show layout meant for public display.

Two different layouts.  Two different heights.  And they both work for the purposes for which they were intended.  At 6'-3" somewhere around 42" would probably be a good working height for you.  If you like sitting down and watching the trains run, measure the height of your eyes from the floor when seated and subtract 5 or 6 inches for a good watching height.  But don't forget the little people.

Jim
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

CNE Runner

My Monks' Island Railway is only 33" off the floor. Why? Because, at my age, I like to sit while running trains. Like previous posters, I use a rolling chair. When I stand over the layout, I feel like one of the seagulls that are so prevalent flying over the island.

Ray
"Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on the rail"

Terry Toenges

Personally, I like it about 24" so I can sit and still see the whole layout.
Feel like a Mogul.

Johnson Bar Jeff

Quote from: Doneldon on January 27, 2012, 11:23:53 PM
Plus, our railroads look much more realistic when viewed from a shallow angle than from a bird's eye perspective.

That thought occurred to me, too. I often find myself getting down on one knee just to watch the train pass at eye level.

Doneldon

J-J

You'll find your photos are much more realistic from a shallow angle, too.

                                                                                                   -- D

pdleth

#10
   I was practical I used 2x2 for legs and they started as 96 inches long cut in thirds yielded 3-32" legs which were the right hight for siting . Also there wasn't one place on the layout I couldn't reach. All wiring was done at the layouts front edge even the switch machines that were mounted on the back of the layout, were wired at the front. DCC made it very easy as everything was control with my NCE throttler
http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx330/pdleth/101_0273.jpg
this PHOTO SHOWS THE BUS LINE AND THE DIGITRAX UNIT THAT CONTROLLED THE SWITCH THROUGH MY nce Throttle

Johnson Bar Jeff

Quote from: Doneldon on January 29, 2012, 06:26:50 PM
J-J

You'll find your photos are much more realistic from a shallow angle, too.

                                                                                                   -- D


Yes, I know. I'm not into photographing my own layouts, but shallow-angle photos are much more interesting than pictures taken from a blimp.  ;)

rogertra

Quote from: Johnson Bar Jeff on January 29, 2012, 03:20:12 PM
Quote from: Doneldon on January 27, 2012, 11:23:53 PM
Plus, our railroads look much more realistic when viewed from a shallow angle than from a bird's eye perspective.

That thought occurred to me, too. I often find myself getting down on one knee just to watch the train pass at eye level.

"Old school" said to build a model railroad at table height but if you prefer a more realistic view of your model railroad built over 40 inches from the floor.

How many of you read Model Railroader?  How many model railroads do you see featured in the magazine these days that are built at table top height?  They are few and far between, if ever.  Even their project 4 x 8 size model railroads, awful as the 4 x 8 may be, are not built at table top height.

Barney R

I have a 4X8 layout that I have suspended from the ceiling on a hoist that I can raise from 2 feet to the ceiling. When I want to look over the entire layout, I lower it. When I want to wire underneath, I raise it to 5 to 6 feet or any where in between. I got the hoist at Costco and mounted in the garage. A 4X8 layout fits between a single overhead garage door. So, when the door is down, I let my layout down and play. When I need access to outside, I hoist the layout up above the door run and open the garage door. It is really neat. If anyone is interested in seeing it, I will take pictures and post same.

Barney R