Spectrum Diesel Problem

[GoCanes]

Hi,

I have  a DCC ready Spectrum Diesel Dash 40.

It quit running during break in (it's DCC ready but I'm running it on analog/DC), no headlight, no movement, no nada.

A few days later, I had it on my layout to re test, it still wouldn't power up, until another loco accidently crossed over the blocked section of the spur it was on, and it suddenly powered up, and ran perfectly AS LONG AS ANOTHER LOCO WAS ON THE SAME BLOCK.

So, absolutely no power and no light, no working at all, when on a track alone, but if another DC loco is on with it, it powers up and runs smoothly.

This seems very strange.  Why would another DC loco cause it to work?

I am not going to try that again until I get a better picture of what is happening, as I don't6 want to damage things (I run DC, with blocked sections and never run two locos on one section at the same time)

[n-scale chesapeake & ohio]

i would check to see if there is a short in the locomotive itself but sometimes spectrum engines have slight issues, for example the HO 2-10-2 states it will run on a 22 inch radius but wouldn't run on a 32 inch yet one of the main rods snapped under pressure so i got back into n-scale and bought the n-scale version and it will run perfectly.

[James in FL]

Are you using common rail wiring method?

First I would try to confirm the problem is not with the track work.
A Multimeter would make quick work of this but if you don't have access to one there are other ways.
With no load on the tracks (no locos) turn your power supply to about 50%. Short the rails beyond your block with a piece of wire or straightened paper clip on the outside of the rails, you should see sparks. Do not sustain the short but rather just brush the wire against the rails for a brief split second. If you see a spark then all is OK. If you don't, then you may have intermittent contact at the joint (block). Fashion a jumper(s) over the block and try again. Alligator clips on each end of a length of wire work well for this.

If all proves out to be OK with the track work then move on to the loco.

Using either power leads from the track to opposite wheels or a 9v battery touched to the opposite wheels, test both trucks. If the wheels spin with this test then it still may be possible that there is oil, lint, fibers, pet hair etc., between the contacts and wheel backs (intermittent contact). Start your trouble shooting from within the trucks and work back to the motor contacts.
DC only Multimeter can be had for less cost than a piece of rolling stock, IMO a good investment.
Try this and let us know where you are with it.

Good luck

[GoCanes]

Thanks James.

Absolutely no problem with the track, so I will do that test on the wheels.  

Dang! Love that dash, and want it working!

Update.  Test to wheels failed, no power, no nada, yesterday.

This AM, Took shell off loco, looked at it very closely, put shell back on (didn't do anything else).  Put loco on track.  Nothing.  Put  2nd loco on track, the dash lit up and ran perfectly, and for once, still ran ewhen I took the other loco off.  Actually broke the engine in !

It runs beautifully.  Turned everything off, then on, and this time, it didn't need a second loco to run!   


Yesssssss!

I'm quite sure that taking the shell off and inspecting the loco with a serious look on my face did it!  The loco must have said:  "  If I don't recover quickly, he's gonna operate!"



How did I fix it?  I don't know.  Damn it, I'm a doctor, not an engineer!   

[GoCanes]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. Still running the break in, and all is well

[skipgear]

It sounds like you may have jostled the the DC jumper clips. There are two brass clips that jump the connections on the light board that make DCC install easy. Sometimes they are loose or just not making contact. It sounds like removing the shell and replacing it, wiggled the clips and got things working.

[GoCanes]

Now I'm having fun!     I love it.  Runs around 11" radius curves with no problem, powerful and smooth.

It will be a mainline loco, on fat 19" curves and long straightaways.  (just got to finsh the mainline  )

[Ken G Price]

Now I'm having fun!     I love it.  Runs around 11" radius curves with no problem, powerful and smooth.

It will be a mainline loco, on fat 19" curves and long straightaways.  (just got to finsh the mainline  )

There is always that problem of finishing the track so we can run trains. Why is it so complicated? 

[n-scale chesapeake & ohio]

i hear ya there