New 89' Alaska/McKinley Dome Cars and negotiating a 22" Radius

[steveeusd]

Hello Bach-Man

Will the new 89' Alaska/McKinley Dome Cars negotiate a 22" radius?

Thanks,

Steve Williams

[Doneldon]

Steve-

I think others on this board have said "yes," but I must caution you that such long cars will look completely ridiculous on anything tighter than 30". I would advise 36" or more to avoid a toy train look. There's more to the equation than whether a given locomotive or car will negotiate a curve of x". There's also the appearance issue, something which is more important to some model rails than others.
                                                                                                                                                             -- D

[Muc]

Wife got me this set for Christmas. It comes with the 22" track. Set it up on a 4X8 table. It runs right out to the edge. I agree that it looks real bad on the 22" curves. If I want to run this train I'm gonna need a bigger room.

[rbryce1]

We have 2 Alaska diesels and all 4 of the lighted McKinley Explorer cars.  I even converted one of the Chena cars to lighted.  I run all 5 of these cars on 22" track just fine in either direction, including the 3 degree inclines and it really doesn't look that bad with scenery.  The train actually runs fine on our 18" track at slower speeds as well, but it needs a city block of clearance on the inside because of the overhang.  Really looks funky.  Don't even think of negotiating an "S" curve on the 18" track.  "S" curve will work on the 22".

[Ken S.]

A 22" is good with the full-size passenger cars. I run 22"s with my mostly Walthers Amtrak fleet that includes Amfleet, Heritage, Horizon, and Superliner cars with no problems and the Superliners basically have the stock couplers on them.

[beampaul7]

Hi,  I have some 50 ft passengerr cars and some of the old 70 ft Athearn shortys and at the moment some 22" 24" and 18" radius curves,  All will run on those curves and if you
view them at eye level don't look too bad.  If, however, you view them from above the 70 ft cars overhang looks really bad.  I can't imagine an 80 or 85 ft car on a 24" curve never mind on an 18".

Paul G

[rbryce1]

steveeusd,

I'd like to share my opinion with you, and it may apply to many others.  It is not directed any any one person in any way.

I like the McKinley Explorer train set very much, as does my wife, mostly because it is an awesome looking train and my wife's late parents actually rode this very train in Alaska.

To me, this is a hobby, not an experiment on how closely I can duplicate reality. If you like a train, and it will work on your tracks, by all means, run it.  

In the real world, railroads have the entire planet to make large curves. Most model railroaders do not have that luxury, and I would hope to discourage anyone from criticizing someone for wanting to have a certain train on less than perfect duplication of the prototype, as this removes much of the fun from the hobby.  I myself do not have another 2-3 feet to make my railroad wider for these kinds of turns.

No one who has ever seen my railroad running the Explorer has ever said it looked weird because I had 22" curves instead of 28" curves. Only the purest would even notice this.  I am not discounting the purest, who strives to duplicate every detail, actually I applaud them if they can do this.  I also will not encourage someone not to do something simply because it does not match the real conditions of a railroad.

If you like it, and it works for you, by all means, do it.

Again, not directed at anyone, just a generic comment.

[beampaul7]

I apologize to any and all who were offended by my previous post.  By all means run what apeals to you.  One, and only one, of the reasons I have chosen to model the 1895 to 1915 time frame is that the locomotives and cars are smaller and, to my eyes anyway, look better.  That is my opinion and nothing more.  This is a great hobby and broad enough for everyone. If it looks good to you, by all means go for it.  Please forgive me.

Paul G

PS I'm really not a rivet counter.  I take some libertys you wouldn't believe.  It all depends on the mood I'm in.   

[rbryce1]

PS I'm really not a rivet counter.  I take some libertys you wouldn't believe.  It all depends on the mood I'm in.   

WHAT...Wait a minute... Running an 89 foot passenger car on 13" radius track is one thing, but to accept a car that is missing the correct number of rivets is totally different and completely unacceptable!  (Just Kidding,  LOL).

[beampaul7]

It gets worse than that Bryce, You got me thinking (bad bad bad).  I need a couple of 50' combination cars to go with my 50' old time passenger cars.  I don't have any idea where the manufacturer found their prototype for their 50 ft combination cars but it doesn't look like any combie I've ever seen.  So, I will just have to find a way to make my own.  See what youv'e done to me LOL.  I'm going to have to go find my saw and hammer and that old standby, screwdriver.

Have a good one.

Paul G

[rbryce1]

Paul,

Nothing like making your own parts.  Remember, follow the rules of custom craftsmen:

Measure it with a micrometer,

Mark it with a piece of chalk,

Cut it with a hack saw!

Can't go wrong.

Let me know how it works for you!!!   

[beampaul7]

Bryce, I hope you realize that your turning loose the Frankenstein monster.  I'm about as handy as a club footed monkey.  I've seen two articles in old Model Railroaders about kitbashing these using two of the 34 footers.  I also have one that someone else did that I found at a swap meet that needs some work.  I'll let you know when as and if I screw up my courage to actualy make the first cut.

Paul G

[Doneldon]

paul-

You might check ebay for some La Belle open- or closed-vestibule wooden passenger cars. Closed-end cars weren't around very long
before everybody went to steel construction for safety, but La Belle did offer both. The kits are challenging but LOTS of fun and easily
adapted to different lengths if need be.
                                                             -- D

[beampaul7]

thanks Donaldon,  I've looked at LaBelle cars but so far have felt too intimidated to go that route.  They"re plant  is just about 100 miles up the road from me in Denver; Laramie, WY or perhaps Cheyenne.  Caboose Hobbies here stocks some of their kits so one of these days it"s just barely possible.

thanks again

PaulG

[Doneldon]

paul-

The La Belle cars certainly do look intimidating but they go together quite well as long as you take your time. You will need a dangerously sharp scalpel or hobby knife, some spring clamps, files or sandpaper sticks and a reliable wood glue. I like to use Elmer's Carpenters' Glue as it has good grab and will give plenty of time to line things up. Also, my experience is that it holds up better than the traditional wood model cements like Ambroid because it doesn't become brittle over time. A Chopper and a good cutting mat will make the construction go a little more smoothly but they aren't necessary. Add a good pair of trucks (Central Valleys are my choice) and some Kadees and you have yourself a museum quality model. One nice thing is that the painting on wood is easier and always looks better than on plastic or metal, particularly if you brush rather than spray.
                                                                                                  -- D