Making a rail way crossing

[bigjoe11a]

bj-

That's no good! Always check to make sure that non-model railroad products are plastic safe, whether glues, paints, lubricants or fillers. I'm sorry that those of us who steered you to using a filler material didn't mention that. But I'd have thought the Squadron putty would be okay.

You can use spackle to fill the hole or just cover it with a piece of plaster cloth over a crumpled newspaper. Two layers of plaster cloth are a lot stronger than one. Put your second piece down at a 45^o angle to the first.

Thanks Don, My friend was telling me about how to use sand and glue. and I wanted to see what you thought of that. I could use it to fill in the holes and build up on it. All so what do you think about me using dry wall putty. Would that work.

Joe

[Jerrys HO]

Joe,

I use it on my foam board with no problems. What kind of foam are you using?

DON

I'm sorry that those of us who steered you to using a filler material didn't mention that.

OP asked, I responded as did other's. By the way bondo cracks and is quite heavy.

Jerry

[Jerrys HO]

Joe,

I just relooked at your photo and it looks like you are using styrofoam. If that is what you are using be careful as a lot of  materials will dissolve that stuff. Sorry I did not see that before. I use the pink foamboard it's real durable and easier and not as messy to cut and shape.
Jerry

[bigjoe11a]

Joe,

I just relooked at your photo and it looks like you are using styrofoam. If that is what you are using be careful as a lot of  materials will dissolve that stuff. Sorry I did not see that before. I use the pink foamboard it's real durable and easier and not as messy to cut and shape.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry. The video I saw in making a train layout said to use installation foam. So I guess it's not that great to use. Yes that's what it is, It's Styrofoam.

You said some thing about pink Foamboard. Is this the same thing or is there another name for it. I only got what I could a ford. Next time I go to Home Depot. I will check for pink foamboard .

Thanks again Jerry.

[Jerrys HO]

That is where I get it from.(Home Depot)
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Insulation-Rigid-Insulation/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbaxx/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&langId=-1&storeId=10051&searchNav=true

I use the 3/4 and 1/2 inch. That is all that is available down in Louisiana. I have seen some up to 2" thick but from what I understand is available in more northern states.

My you tube search showed a lot of this material being used. When I modeled O gauge I used homesote. From what I heard it is not good to use in high humidity in HO scale so I stayed away. I had a lot leftover from my other layout no in the garbage.

You should be ok with what you have especially if you are too far along with your scenery. If you are using EZ track don't hotglue on styro as it will melt right through.

Jerry

[bigjoe11a]

That is where I get it from.(Home Depot)
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Insulation-Rigid-Insulation/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbaxx/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&langId=-1&storeId=10051&searchNav=true

I use the 3/4 and 1/2 inch. That is all that is available down in Louisiana. I have seen some up to 2" thick but from what I understand is available in more northern states.

My you tube search showed a lot of this material being used. When I modeled O gauge I used homesote. From what I heard it is not good to use in high humidity in HO scale so I stayed away. I had a lot leftover from my other layout no in the garbage.

You should be ok with what you have especially if you are too far along with your scenery. If you are using EZ track don't hotglue on styro as it will melt right through.

Jerry

Cool, Thanks Jerry

[Doneldon]

bj-

Actually, I think dry wall mud is better than spackle but most folks don't have it on hand
so I generally just mention spackle. It's lighter than most spackle and dries faster. It's
also cheaper.
                       -- D

[bigjoe11a]

bj-

Actually, I think dry wall mud is better than spackle but most folks don't have it on hand
so I generally just mention spackle. It's lighter than most spackle and dries faster. It's
also cheaper.
                       -- D

-- D
  Thanks Don. This mite work

Joe

[bigjoe11a]

I wanted to post an image to show you guys what I did and it doesn't look to bad. I have some cleaning to do and some fixing up. It doesn't look all that bad.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?j8242yx6qxel8ba

What I wanted to ask. How can I put some rail road signals in. how would I get them to come on when I train goes by and how would I get them to shut off.

Again Guys thanks a lot for your help.

Joe

[Doneldon]

bj-

Looks good to me. Nice work.

As for the signals, well, it's hard to answer without knowing what era you're modeling and what style signals you prefer. Here's a link to one signal on ebay which can be a door to the other signals. New Jersey International, Model Power, MTH, Life Like and Tomar all make operating signals. You can trigger them with switches (not convenient or realistic) or occupancy sensors in your track. This can be done digitally if all of your rolling stock has a resistor across one axle of a truck or sliding shoes. That's usually not the case so there are light sensitive sensors which yoyu hide in your roadbed. These can detect when ambient light is blocked by a train overhead or use IR to sense a train.

You can browse for signals at ebay (large selection). You might also do an advanced search at Walthers. Here's that link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-PAIR-TRANSITION-GRADE-CROSSING-SIGNALS-LEDs-BELL-/330779692502?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4d04018dd6

                                                                                                   -- D

[bigjoe11a]

Thanks Doneldon, but WOW. I didn't think they would cost that much. and I have to get a controller too. All together I'm looking at $90.00. Doesn't any one think that's way to high. There has to be a cheaper way to do this. any ideas.

[Doneldon]

bj-

I'm kind of knocked out by the cost of signals, too. One could easily drop a thousand bucks putting signals all over a modest size layout. And it's more if the signals are integrated into the control system for the layout. A lot more.

I can think of only two ways to save money on signals. One is to limit functioning signals to points of interest in the foreground of the layout, with non-electric signals elsewhere. Or put them in little by little as cash becomes available. That doesn't actually save any more money but it does spread out the pain. The second way would be to scratch build your signals. This doesn't need to be very hard if you use a standard design, whether prototypical or your own design. The physical parts can be easily fabricated from brass or styrene and the lights can be LEDs. You might be surprised how quick and easy this is if you do the signals on a production line basis.
                                                                              -- D

[bigjoe11a]

bj-

I'm kind of knocked out by the cost of signals, too. One could easily drop a thousand bucks putting signals all over a modest size layout. And it's more if the signals are integrated into the control system for the layout. A lot more.

I can think of only two ways to save money on signals. One is to limit functioning signals to points of interest in the foreground of the layout, with non-electric signals elsewhere. Or put them in little by little as cash becomes available. That doesn't actually save any more money but it does spread out the pain. The second way would be to scratch build your signals. This doesn't need to be very hard if you use a standard design, whether prototypical or your own design. The physical parts can be easily fabricated from brass or styrene and the lights can be LEDs. You might be surprised how quick and easy this is if you do the signals on a production line basis.
                                                                              -- D

Ok, Thanks Don, I mite not have that kind of money for a while. I mite come up with an another idea. Or I just mite have to spend the money. Other then the signals and the controller. Is there any thing else I will need to make this work.

[Doneldon]

Other then the signals and the controller. Is there any thing else I will need to make this work.

Joe-

Yes. You'll need a power supply, of course. A surplus wall wart should suffice but just what output you'll need will be determined by your control system. Your power needs should be minimal if your signals aren't integrated into actual train control, especially so if you use LEDs. And I would definitely go with LEDs. Changing conventional bulbs inside of tiny light housings sounds like a good way to go crazy or blind or both. Plus, incandescent bulbs are likely to damage your signals if they are plastic. Painted brass should stand up to the heat but you must be very careful to make sure you don't have any bare wires inside. Or, use track power as your source, since these systems generally draw very little current, but you'll need to use resistors to lower the voltage or your signals will be extremely bright, for an extremely short time.

Then you'll need sensors to tell your controls when trains are occupying a given section of track. Those aren't a major outlay but they are a necessary part of the signal controls.

By the way, a good way to phase in signals is to start with things like crossing signals. They aren't difficult to install and they give a pretty good animation bang for your buck. Semaphores and other train control signals, even if not actually part of your train control system (that is, they're there to look good, not to run trains) are somewhat pricier and more difficult to install.

I haven't looked at Talking Electronics ---     http://talkingelectronics.com/     --- lately, but you might want to see what they offer for crossing and train control signals. Check under "Electronics for Model Railroads" in the index on the left side of the home page. He has great ideas and plans for circuits. In many cases, he even has kits to make things like signal controllers. His prices are excellent and his service is outstanding. I've generally had my merchandise within a week even though he's in Australia. And, yes, his stuff is suitable for North American service.

Good luck.

Doneldon

[bigjoe11a]

Other then the signals and the controller. Is there any thing else I will need to make this work.

Joe-

Yes. You'll need a power supply, of course. A surplus wall wart should suffice but just what output you'll need will be determined by your control system. Your power needs should be minimal if your signals aren't integrated into actual train control, especially so if you use LEDs. And I would definitely go with LEDs. Changing conventional bulbs inside of tiny light housings sounds like a good way to go crazy or blind or both. Plus, incandescent bulbs are likely to damage your signals if they are plastic. Painted brass should stand up to the heat but you must be very careful to make sure you don't have any bare wires inside. Or, use track power as your source, since these systems generally draw very little current, but you'll need to use resistors to lower the voltage or your signals will be extremely bright, for an extremely short time.

Then you'll need sensors to tell your controls when trains are occupying a given section of track. Those aren't a major outlay but they are a necessary part of the signal controls.

By the way, a good way to phase in signals is to start with things like crossing signals. They aren't difficult to install and they give a pretty good animation bang for your buck. Semaphores and other train control signals, even if not actually part of your train control system (that is, they're there to look good, not to run trains) are somewhat pricier and more difficult to install.

I haven't looked at Talking Electronics ---     http://talkingelectronics.com/     --- lately, but you might want to see what they offer for crossing and train control signals. Check under "Electronics for Model Railroads" in the index on the left side of the home page. He has great ideas and plans for circuits. In many cases, he even has kits to make things like signal controllers. His prices are excellent and his service is outstanding. I've generally had my merchandise within a week even though he's in Australia. And, yes, his stuff is suitable for North American service.

Good luck.

Doneldon

Don, Thanks again, That web site I guess doesn't carry them any more. The link on the left is missing. That's what I want to try and find. Is a kit. If you come up with some more ideas. Please let me know

Joe