Willams F7-3003 GM F-7

[kenz]

 :(the horn works but not the bell- I'm using a railking zcontroller 100 watt with the buttons on it for the horn and bell.

Also new to O Scale - can you not latch the two powered engines together facing the opposite each other?

[r0gruth]

You have two powered F-7s?These usually come with one powered and one non powered [dummy].
Has the second unit had motors added?If so I think it is possible to change it to work back to back.
If it is two powered A units from the factory it would be neccassary to change the reverse unit wiring in one of them.

[phillyreading]

I have five Williams engines with early True Blast 2 units and have no problems with the MTH Z-1000 transformer and the horn & bell features, you can only access one feature at a time. Also may have to hold the horn or bell button for up to three seconds to get the horn or bell to work.

To make the two powered F-7's work as you want, reverse or swap the wire plug-ins on the reversing circuit board on one F-7 and that should work. If not you may have to swap the front and rear motors around. Another thing that may involve a little work is to turn the engine shell around and remount it.
I would do as little as possible to rewire anything as you void the warranty by touching the circuit boards or wiring, that is assuming you want the warranty. Turning the small plug-ins around or swapping them won't void the warranty, but if you cut wires or do changes to a circuit board you instantly void the warranty.

Lee F.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear All,

To change the direction of the loco, change the polarity of the DC motors. 

The two (front and rear) 4-pin motor plugs on my TBII GP-38 are wired the same, so swapping jacks (plug-in positions on the reverser board) would not reverse the polarity.

Swapping power trucks would, but the wiring bundles are short for the front, and long for the back. 

You would have to swap the bundles, too.  Way too difficult.

Easiest way would be to swap the blue and yellow pins on each of the 4-pin motor plugs. 

There is a tiny tab on the back of the pin that will release the pin from its connector if it is depressed with a hobby knife. 

You might want to unplug the sound board from the reverser board on the trailing loco....second horn and bell not needed and not prototypical.   

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik