E-Z Mate couplers not working

[mrjesserobinson]

Howdy,

My 8-year old son got a Thoroughbred Norfolk Southern train set on St. Nick's Day. He's hooked big time, so Santa got him more track (including switchers), pier set, some Plasticville pieces and 3 more cars from other manufacturers (Walters and Athens I believe).

The problem is trying to keep the cars all together. He's having a real hard time keeping the trains connected. They seem to get disconnected when going around turns, backing up or just at random times. We've double checked the track is put together properly. We've attach the cars on straight sections. Sometimes it will work, others it won't. It happens mostly with Bachmann E-Z Mate couplers, but also with the other cars too.

Any help with keeping the trains connected would be greatly appreciated. I'm I missing something? Does this typically happen? Please help a newbie and his desperate son (he's ready to start gluing them together). HA!

Thanks,
-Jesse

[Doneldon]

Jess-

Your son's trains shouldn't be uncoupling as you describe. The usual causes of this irritating problem are couplers which are not at NMRA (National Model Railroading Association) specs, different manufacturers' couplers, defective trackwork and excessive speed. Things are typically worse on curves and grades, and when backing.

The EZ Mate couplers are really pretty good when properly installed. However, even new rolling stock can be incorrect. Absent an NMRA standards gauge, the best I can suggest is that you use a car which has seemed to be among your most reliable, or a locomotive, as your standard and adjust all other couplers to that standard. The height of the coupler is the most critical element. That is adjusted by adding very thin shims between the top of a car's trucks and its body to raise the coupler height, or very thin shims between the draft gear (coupler mounting box) and the car's body. Kadee manufacturing makes washers especially for this purpose but you may be able to fashion a workable replacement from very thin metal or plastic sheeting.

The best couplers available are the ones manufactured by Kadee. They have couplers with underset and overset heads (the fist-shaped part of the coupler) as well as numerous special shapes for specific cars. Many, probably most, HO model railroaders convert everything to Kadee but that would be a premature action on your part as you don't yet know how long your son's attraction to the hobby will last. There might be some advantage to switching to EZ Mates since that would be only a couple of cars (it sounds like most of your equipment is from Bachmann) but I cannot promise that would fix things unless everything is brought into compliance with either the NMRA or your own specifications.

Also, check your track connections again. Rails should line up so that you can sight a straight line through joints on a straightaway and smooth curves without any sudden (even minor) changes in direction. Run you finger along the tops of both rails to make sure there aren't any bumps at rail joints. That can easily happen to the best of us and it isn't usually obvious by sight. A bump will likely mean that one rail is actually on top of its joiner rather than inside of it. It's an easy fix; just pull it apart and rejoin it.

Beyond that, and I know this is a lot to ask of a child) have him slow down and keep a uniform speed, especially when backing a train.

Model railroading is a fine hobby which I have enjoyed for nearly 60 years, but there is a bit of a learning curve at the beginning. That can be
frustrating at first but the kinks begin to work out pretty soon.

                                                                                                     -- D

[Jerrys HO]

mrjess

Doneldon made some very good points. I would like to add one more that I have found on my Bachmann rolling stock.
Check that the trucks are not to tight. There is a screw in the middle of each truck when you turn it over. If the truck is too tight and does not turn freely loosen an 1/8 to 1/4 increments.
Also if you are coupling 50ft.cars behind the engine it may be binding in the turns lifting the car off the track. This happens mainly on 18 radius turns.

Jerry

[Len]

Also check to make sure the small bronze spring on the side of the coupler that holds it closed didn't get knocked out. Kadee #622 coupler springs work fine as replacements in EZ-Mate couplers.

Len

[jward]

one problem i've run into are bent plastic couplers. if the train is going fast and the trip pins snag on something, you've bent a plastic coupler. the coupler height will now be off, the head out of alignment, and the shank weakened.

best bet is to replace the couplers giving you trouble with metal ones like the kadee 148.

[bigmags14]

I would start off by actually looking at the couplers. Notice how well the two couplers are actually connected. Sometimes, one coupler can be higher or lower than the one its connected to. If this happens, the cars will not stay connected. If this happens, I would try to bend one of the couplers so that they are more even. Otherwise, try buying new couplers or maintain a slower speed.

[jward]

bending them never gets them back to what they were. once the structural integrity is compromised, it is best to replace them.

[jbrock27]

Agree that bending the couplers will do more harm than good.

I have found that having a Kadee coupler gauge to be tremendously helpful in getting the height of the couplers to be uniform, which is important for good, consistent operation.  There are 2 kinds made by Kadee.  One is metal and the other is plastic.  You put the gauge on the track then roll the car or locomotive to the gauge to check height and coupler hose clearance.  You can then follow Mr Doneldon's advice about making any adjustments needed to get the heights uniform by raising or lowering the couplers or even raising the wheelsets some.  I went with the plastic height gauge, so I did not have to worry about powering down the track first (with the metal gauge the power needs to be off on the tracks or you will create a short).  The part # is 206.  I found it on Amazon for less than I found it for on Ebay.  Next to a track gauge, it has been the best purchase I have made so far.
Good luck!