Looking for recommendations on roadbed for sectional snap track.

Started by jbrock27, February 22, 2013, 07:15:06 AM

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Pops

Well, I'm not as knowledgable as most here, and just beginning, but, I'm using the Woodland Scenics rubber roadbed.  It's easy to use, quieter than cork or homosote, and it works well with EZ Track.  I like the looks better, too, but that really doesn't matter as I plan to ballast the tracks after finishing all the scenery.  

Woodland Scenics has some neat videos on their website covering the road bed as well.  I want things that work well, but are almost foolproof to use.  This fills the bill, and for what it's worth, I highly recommend it.

http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/trackbed

Also, I have foam on top of my benchwork with the W.S. road bed on top of the foam.  Can't beat it.

jbrock27

Thanks for the suggestion Pops.

Hey, don't act like you "know nothing"  ;)

Any idea how the WS stuff behaves with old time snap track?  And is the ballasting approach the same as it would be for cork?

Thanks Pops.

Joe, another question for you (or anyone else who has an answer)-Your friend who cuts his own sections from a roll of cork for his N scale layout, how does he do the curves?  Does he cut a curved piece of cork or does he cut a straight piece, then "notch" it on the inside of the curve to get it to flex to the radius of the track he is laying on top of it?
Keep Calm and Carry On

Joe Satnik

Dear jb,

Dunno again. 

In my experience, HO split cork roadbed is flexible enough to take 18"R curves without notching. 

Midwest Products roadbed is split (perforated at an angle) down the middle.

You tear it in half along the perforation, and the angled middle becomes the outside

tapered edge of the roadbed.   

Two pieces of half the width make the roadbed more flexible side to side,

and allow you to lay them next to a center line drawn on your layout. 

As you go around a curve, the outside half piece will end up being "shorter" than the inside half. 

You can either cut it off so the ends match, or just start with a new half piece wherever the previous half piece ends.  (The latter is my preference.)   

Another possibility for roadbed: (Pickup truck) topper tape and adhesive caulk:

"Great Layout Project 2: Quick & Easy Flextrack"
Using adhesive caulk to lay track
by Hitchcock, Chuck
from Model Railroader August 2003  p. 76-77

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik
 
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

jbrock27

Yes Joe, thank you, I was aware of that regarding the cork roadbed that is sold intended to be used that way.
Since your first mention was of your friend using a cork roll, such as can be found through MENARDS and other places, that he would have to cut himself, my question was about using the cork roll.  Can I possibly trouble you again to ask him?
Thanks so much for all your assistance.
Keep Calm and Carry On

Joe Satnik

jb,

Here are two questions for you.

How many feet of roadbed do you need?

How many cents/foot are you willing to spend on it?

Realize that the Quartet 103 cork roll my friend uses for N scale is only 1/8" thick.  It may be too thin for HO use. 

What question(s) do you want to ask him?

Joe Satnik



If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

Pops

Quote from: jbrock27 on February 27, 2013, 09:41:41 AM

Any idea how the WS stuff behaves with old time snap track?  And is the ballasting approach the same as it would be for cork?


I don't know about Snap Track, but since it works fine with EZ Track, I'd assume it should be OK.  Yes, you use it and ballast it just like cork or any other road bed.  Did you check out the link I gave to the video?  You can see there how easy it is, and how it compares to others.

:)

jbrock27

Joe, ask your buddy how he cuts the cork roll he gets.  Not with what, but how.  For example for curves, does he cut the actual shape of the curve, using 1 piece, or cut 2 straight pieces to lay down next to each other, forming the curve, just as you would when using the Midwest Products stuff?
I have seen rolls come in thicker sizes than 1/8"  online.   
Don't know how much I need yet Joe, since this is my research on what to use and how to go about it.  Cost will be for me, whatever I can get for the best price that makes the most sense when factoring money and time.  But I don't mind implementing a little elbow grease to save costs.  Thanks for sticking with me on this.

Pops-haven't had a chance yet to look at the vid link but I will.  I have a feeling I have seen it previously-is it a dude laying it down on a module layout?  For a layout that runs bigger than HO?  The dude has a beard and glasses and looks like he is in warehouse?  The layout he mentions is one his club is "renovating"?
Keep Calm and Carry On

Joe Satnik

jb,

Well, if you don't mind cutting curves by hand (elbow grease), 

there is such thing as 5mm corrugated cardboard from boxes. 

Your local grocery store probably crushes hundreds of them a day....

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

jbrock27

Thanks Joe.  Nah, I don't want to "cheap it" to that level.  I will go with either cork or the WS roadbed.  Do me the favor and ask your friend those questions for me.  Thanks Joe, you da man!

(We don't have to get into this topic now, but my next questions will be about what can be used for ballast besides ballast sold as track ballast.  Like strained kitty litter for example that I have read alot about).
Keep Calm and Carry On

Doneldon

jb-

Kitty litter would be awfully large for HO -- significantly bigger than a scale fist and I've never seen ballast that large. I
suppose you could crush it to make it smaller but that could be a lot of work and give you tons of dust to cope with.
Aquarium gravel might work if you could find some which isn't too oversized and which has a rough texture instead of
the more common pebble-shaped stone. But don't use the hot pink or the rainbow gravel. It might not look prototypical.

                                                                                                                                          -- D

Pops

Quote from: jbrock27 on February 28, 2013, 01:03:35 PM

Pops-haven't had a chance yet to look at the vid link but I will.  I have a feeling I have seen it previously-is it a dude laying it down on a module layout?  For a layout that runs bigger than HO?  The dude has a beard and glasses and looks like he is in warehouse?  The layout he mentions is one his club is "renovating"?

No, it's the manufacturers video and it's only two minutes.
Guess you've already decided on cork.  It's probably the most popular. Best of luck with it.

jbrock27

Hey Doc (D), I hear ya!  But I bet those colors would be great in the San Francisco area ;)  What I read about the kitty litter was people straining it to get only the smallest pieces to use for ballast.  I wondered about the water absorption qualities of the litter and humidity...

Pops, what makes you say that?  See my post above, I have not decided yet either way- still weighing the options.  I will check the vid out now that I have the opportunity to.
Keep Calm and Carry On

jbrock27

Pops, very good Vida.  Thank you.  I like the demo on the sound deadening qualities.  Did you have to use their adhesive or did you use something else like Liquid Nails for Projects to secure the road bed down or track down?
I was thinking of the idea of 1) using an adhesive that if I had to later on, could easily remove the road bed (whether it be cork or WS stuff) and salvage it  and 2) the same with the track to the road bedim thought was instead of using adhesive for the track to the road bed, use nails or screw to secure it which would make it much easier to remove track for repairs and such.  On line, I have also seen someone using staples to secure cork road bed to the plywood suboard.

Thoughts?  Anyone?
Keep Calm and Carry On

Doneldon

jb-

Yes, kitty litter will absorb moisture which could lead to an eventual mildew problem.

If you strain out the oversize pieces of kitty litter you won't have much left unless you continually grind and strain it. Using only
the first strain materials will make for some very expensive ballast.

Also, be aware that track is fairly recyclable but cork roadbed dries out, fades and holds the shape into which it was curved. This can
make recycling quite a challenge except for using used straight sections on new straightaways. And it gets supremely messed up when
you remove the track and ballast. Frankly, I think that cork roadbed is a one use product. Reusing it is way more work than it's worth.

                                                                                                                                                 -- D

jbrock27

Thanks Doc, good point.  I was thinking of potential spots that would need repair or replacement or perhaps some additions later on, but I understand what you are saying.
On the note the track is more recyclable than the cork roadbed, what would you suggest as a method of attaching the track to the road bed that would make it easiest for future removable if necessary?
Thank you.
Keep Calm and Carry On