semi scale gg1 to r1 or dd2

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Since we now have 2 versions and many brands (semi & full) of the gg1, how about turning the old semi gg's into a PRR R-1, DD-2 or similar. By use of a new carriage/frame half the work is done. Not exactly 100% prototypical, but the semi-scale gg's are a "bit off" as is. The others would be closer to actual scale as I believe they are shorter in length. I think the electric crowd would be "shocked" and possibly foaming at the mouth!
Ive seen the gg's with the correct early paint job(maker?) and now Im "chompin the bit" for a more correct "baby gg".
Anyone else?

[TrainmanGene]

Post pics when your finished the transformation. I have like 5 of the Scale GG-1s and only kept 2 of the shorty's, I put the rest in the Bay. I'm hopeing they will come out with the original 4899 as built scheme in the scale version. For some reason I always liked it. That is the one I kept on the short versions, It's a MTH the other is a Lionel Penn Central.

[M1FredQ]

I wish one of the companies would consider a scale in between scale and semi scale for the gg1. The semi. Scale looks to stubby and the full scale is too long to run on average curves

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Post pics when your finished the transformation.
 I'm hoping they will come out with the original 4899 as built scheme in the scale version. For some reason I always liked it.

)
That paint job is one I love too. I have been on the lookout for a suitable power truck for the center. The project is in dream stage right now, hence my thoughts for a new one. Hey, I just discovered mth makes (or made) a p5a! I have a new goal now, but I think the twin steeple cabs do look a little better.

[Cobrabob8]

 It is a pretty good idea that M1FredQ proposed about a GG1 being made in between the traditional sized GG1 and a scale sized GG1. Especially if it could negotiate 036 curve track. The only problem I see is that it would really muddy the picture of GG1's available. Plus the cost for any manufacturer to make one. There are no guarantees of how well it would sell. Traditional sized GG1's  still sell very well, it seems every manufacturer makes one. And scale sized ones also sell well. I do not own one yet, but when I finally do purchase one, it will be traditional sized. And it will be a Williams by Bachmann version.
Cobrabob.

[M1FredQ]

Those of you that have engineering skills about model trais, is it possible using the same"chassis' on the full scale to make it so that there is some flexibility of the main wheels so that the full scale can negociate down to 0-36? Then it would require minimal tooling and not have to redesign a whole new engine. Or would WBB consider a separate "kit".

After reading about the GG1 in Trains magazine 3 years ago I really liked the looks and the whole history of it. Last year I was able to pick up a semi in Brunswick Green and Tuscan red 5 Stripe. While down in Florida last November the hobby shop had a full scale GG1 on the track and "it does look cool".

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Maybe, I dont own a full scale myself but I have lengthened the curved front guide slot for the semi's before so they could swing wider to make a 0-27 turn. Some needed the modification, others didn't. Turning engine upsidedown and laying a section of spare track on the wheels then checking out what was stopping it is how I "beat the system" there.

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Anyone notice the full scale is no longer listed on the site. Not in the 2013 WBB catalog either. 

[M1FredQ]

GG1

Can you share how you made that modification??

My semi's always derail if I have switches on the line they cross over. I use L----l Fas-Track

Thanks

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

GG1

Can you share how you made that modification??

My semi's always derail if I have switches on the line they cross over. I use L----l Fas-Track

Thanks

M1FredQ-I will , or at least will try.

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

EDIT:
Hey, one thing I forgot about until last nights re-lashing of my gg , even with mod you may still run into issues with coupler finger/pocket bind due to arch increase on the gg's with solid mounted coupler to trucks . It puts the coupler more outside of center(like o gauge pickups on 027 ) An articulated or body/mount coupler is always at the head of my rolling stock. It was necessary to overcome this "coupler kickout", I already had some cars/extra caboose ready with articulated couplers and forgot the regular solid couplers on cars would bind and an articulated coupler at the lead was important. My articulated passenger cars work well, but for freight I head and end my rolling stock tipped with a couple matching postwar cupola caboose salvages, each with new heavy weight aftermarket trucks with articulated couplers, 1 long/1 regular on each, to act as transition cars. The gg is always connected to a caboose first with freight or non articulated stock. To turn around I uncouple and switch engine from end to end by siding (or looping), but always re-attach to a caboose.  Im going to add part of this as an edit too but thought it deserved a message. Cant believe I forgot to mention it 


Sorry my account was "Guested". Kind of like ghosted. But anyhow the mod., It will only help if its the track radius that is the problem. If your derailing on turnout straights, or the engine hits the switching motor cover its of no use. First check the trucks wont bind on themselves in a 27"R turn. If they can make the turn without being limited by the frame the mod will most likely work. I have done 3 different brands each needing removal of about the same amount shown in red. The other colors show where I thought another engine may need attention but I havent come across one yet. here's the diagram. Semi scale only!
 

[M1FredQ]

Thanks GG1

It always takes me some time before I can get to projects but next weekend I'll work on it and post my results

[r0gruth]

Sometimes the wiring from the trucks is too tight and will limit the turning radius.

Usually you can remove the body,find the wire from each truck and pull it out a little to
make it longer.If it won't pull you can remove the tie that bundles the wire.There may be two bundles.

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Sometimes the wiring from the trucks is too tight and will limit the turning radius.

Usually you can remove the body,find the wire from each truck and pull it out a little to
make it longer.If it won't pull you can remove the tie that bundles the wire.There may be two bundles.

Note taken. Thanks for the tip.
   Hey! Just like proto- locos, few where ever 100% alike either  .

Hey! Hey! -Would one of you full scale guys get me some good measurement off a power truck axle to axle to axle, wheel height & total center to center on pivit holes. Inches, mm, scale it dont matter, just a few good tight numbers.

[M1FredQ]

Hey GG-1

Thanks again for the info. Had a change in plans this weekend. My wife couldn't take my daughter and some of the volleyball team to their tournament so I was "volunteered".

When i came home last night I had a chance to study the diagram. I found a grinder bit from my dremel supplies and I think it will do the job nicely!!

I should be able to get to it friday or saturday

Thanks again for the info.