Noob question about upgrade path. (Unexpected Bachmann owner :)

[garfielder]

Greetings.
This is going to be completely noob question.
I just received as a gift Durango & Silverton starter set.
On the long run my plan was to upgrade to digital to have 2 train and have Simple loop with siding 5' by 4' or Double loop.

Is this a good starter set to do that or I should rather try returning this to exchange to some other kind of starter if possible.
IF I can use this as a good start is there any recommended paths or parts?
I for example couldn't easily on this site find just DCC controller and it's not obvious to me what of the starter set i can reuse if I do this?
I assume i won't be able to use the locomotive but i should be able to use the tracks and cars. Am I correct?

Thank you for your advise.

[MilwaukeeRoadfan261]

I myself have 2 different 2-8-0 wheel arrangement engines from Bachmann and both of the are very good engines. For the decoder, I would recommend a either a Bachmann decoder (model #44915 which is what any Bachmann DCC on board engine from the Standard and a few from the Spectrum areas are fitted with) or a Soundtraxx mobile decoder (model #852001, which I have heard is a good decoder, which like the Bachmann is an 8 Pin 1 Amp decoder with 2 functions but has the decoder plug, which plugs into the socket in the tender of the 2-8-0, as part of the decoder for if it is going in an engine with very little space for a decoder like a tank engine). As for the controller, Bachmann's EZ-Command controller Model #44902, is a great one to start with. I had one and it worked great since at the time I only had a couple engines which were a Spectrum 2-8-0, Standard line GP40 and a Standard line 2-8-4 in unlettered C&O style. So an EZ-Command DCC controller would be a great one for you to start with. When I used it, it ran the two track oval I had at the time perfectly with only 1 set of power wires hooked up to the outer line. I hope this advise is helpful to you in getting a DCC model railroad going.

MilwaukeeRoadfan261

[garfielder]

For the decoder, I would recommend a either a Bachmann decoder (model #44915 which is what any Bachmann DCC on board engine from the Standard and a few from the Spectrum areas are fitted with) or a Soundtraxx mobile decoder (model #852001, which I have heard is a good decoder, which like the Bachmann is an 8 Pin 1 Amp decoder with 2 functions but has the decoder plug, which plugs into the socket in the tender of the 2-8-0, as part of the decoder for if it is going in an engine with very little space for a decoder like a tank engine). As for the controller, Bachmann's EZ-Command controller Model #44902, is a great one to start with. I had one and it worked great since at the time I only had a couple engines which were a Spectrum 2-8-0, Standard line GP40 and a Standard line 2-8-4 in unlettered C&O style. So an EZ-Command DCC controller would be a great one for you to start with. When I used it, it ran the two track oval I had at the time perfectly with only 1 set of power wires hooked up to the outer line. I hope this advise is helpful to you in getting a DCC model railroad going.

MilwaukeeRoadfan261

Sorry I am really new to this - when you say decoder -- you mean I can put it into my existing locomotive so I can use DCC controller with it? So I don't have to buy new DCC locomotive I can just add decoder to the one I have?

[electrical whiz kid]

Yeah-the world is yours, but do some reading on this before you jump in with a gleam in your eye and louse up something expensive.  DCC is a nice way to go-some guys swear by it, other swear at it; but all in all, it is a good thing; but like I said, do some bookwork first.
RIch C.

[garfielder]

Yeah-the world is yours, but do some reading on this before you jump in with a gleam in your eye and louse up something expensive.  DCC is a nice way to go-some guys swear by it, other swear at it; but all in all, it is a good thing; but like I said, do some bookwork first.
RIch C.

Awesome. Any recommendation on what I should read? Any link are appreciated If I need to buy some books I will...

[Doneldon]

gar-

There are several books for beginning DCC. You can find some good ones on the Kalmbach (publisher) website. Their www address for DCC books is:

http://www.kalmbachstore.com/modeltrains-railroading-model-railroading-books-wiring-electronics-series.html

I suggest either the second or fourth book; the other two relate to specific DCC projects which presuppose prior familiarity with DCC. They also lack the fundamental information you need as a newcomer to DCC. You'll find that DCC can really bring model railroading to life. The realistic control possibilities (I've seen DC described as driving the electricity in the rails and DCC aptly described as driving the engines), sound, lighting and enhanced operation of locomotives and accessories can turn an elaborate toy into an adult hobby.

If you plan to just run two trains on separate tracks, however, you don't need DCC. You can still have some sound and lighting effects with DC and a dedicated sound controller but that won't save you much cash over an entry-level DCC system like Bachmann's EZ Command, and it won't allow you to expand to full DCC later if you decide you want to go deeper into model railroading. For this reason, and the opportunity to enjoy the benefits of full DCC, I urge you to go the DCC route.

You should be aware that any locomotive can be converted to DCC or DCC and sound. However, there is a very wide range of difficulty involved in doing so. Many locomotives are sold as DCC ready, which means they are almost a drop in job; the hardest part is likely to be figuring out how to gain access to the inside of the loco or tender. Then there is DCC friendly, which means a fairly simple install, possibly involving some soldering. At worst, there are installs which present skill and emotional involvement challenges equal to wondering whether you built your bomb shelter correctly as thermonuclear devices rain down on the surface. I certainly suggest that you limit yourself to DCC ready and DCC friendly jobs until you are comfortable working on your trains and have at least a passing familiarity with low-voltage wiring, generally, and DCC in particular.

Welcome to the hobby and this board. Please keep us up to date on your projects and progress in model railroading. It is truly a multifaceted hobby with something to keep just about anyone interested. It's worked for me for almost 60 years.
                                                                             -- D

[MilwaukeeRoadfan261]

For the decoder, I would recommend a either a Bachmann decoder (model #44915 which is what any Bachmann DCC on board engine from the Standard and a few from the Spectrum areas are fitted with) or a Soundtraxx mobile decoder (model #852001, which I have heard is a good decoder, which like the Bachmann is an 8 Pin 1 Amp decoder with 2 functions but has the decoder plug, which plugs into the socket in the tender of the 2-8-0, as part of the decoder for if it is going in an engine with very little space for a decoder like a tank engine). As for the controller, Bachmann's EZ-Command controller Model #44902, is a great one to start with. I had one and it worked great since at the time I only had a couple engines which were a Spectrum 2-8-0, Standard line GP40 and a Standard line 2-8-4 in unlettered C&O style. So an EZ-Command DCC controller would be a great one for you to start with. When I used it, it ran the two track oval I had at the time perfectly with only 1 set of power wires hooked up to the outer line. I hope this advise is helpful to you in getting a DCC model railroad going.

MilwaukeeRoadfan261

Sorry I am really new to this - when you say decoder -- you mean I can put it into my existing locomotive so I can use DCC controller with it? So I don't have to buy new DCC locomotive I can just add decoder to the one I have?

In a nutshell, yes. The engine in the Durango & Silverton set is nothing more than a DCC ready Standard Line 2-8-0. just open up the tender (should be a couple clips at the back of the tender to pop out of place and just lift the tender body away), remove the dummy plugs and plug in the decoder and it should be good to go. Don't forget to read the instructions that come with the decoder on how to install it.

[richg]

If you ever consider sound, SoundTraxx sound decoders are used in Bachmann sound on board locos.
Realize, just about all stream locos have the decoder in the tender, whether sound or non-sound. There are a couple brands of non-decoders that can fit in a loco and slightly larger than the size of a dime but you need some experience at doing this.
DC is two wires. The normal non sound decoder is a minimum of seven wires.
Most decoders can be run on a DC layout or DCC layout.
Another thing, don't make assumptions when it comes to DCC. There are many variables, different brands of DCC controllers, decoders, installations.
You did good to ask here first.
Below is a link with a lot of info about DCC and DCC with sound. He favors SoundTraxx. He has many link in his sites. Curriculum is a good starting point. Store the link in Favorites.

http://www.mrdccu.com/

This is barely the tip of the DCC iceberg.

Also, there are literally hundreds of very good DCC sites on the Internet. With some patience, you can find almost any info if you know how to search and you get many links to store in Favorites.
I have over four hundred DCC links stored.
Good luck and welcome to the board.

You might get a Photo Bucket account which will make things easier with some DCC installation questions.
Pictures of a loco can help others here with what you want to install on. Many here use it.

http://photobucket.com/

Rich

[richd286]

I have long been interested in model railroading and after 20+ years I dug out all my old stuff and started reading about current technology and techniques.  Amazing advancements.  What I learned:
DCC is the future and if you are interested in expanding, its the way to go.
Bachmann EZ track comes in two types nickle silver alloy (gray roadbed) and steel ( black roadbed )  nickle does not oxidize like steel and is far more reliable for consistent running.

The starter set you reference is not DCC and comes with black road bed track.  From your posting these are not where you want to go.

I suggest you find the Bachmann item that includes the EZ Command controller pack that comes with a locomotive, they come with either  steam or diesel engine.  Its a great value.

Look online for a track deal.   E-Bay often has sellers who have lots of gray roadbed track packages and sometimes a manual turnout is included.  If you can spend the $ a DCC turnout is a very satisfying addition.

Now you can look around for rolling stock of your choice and a caboose that matches your engine's road name. 

I think I've seen a DCC starter set at my LHS so you might find one that has all the latest technology and quality you'll enjoy.

RD

[jward]

the only problem I have with the ez command is its limited functionality. if you want to do any programming of your decoders besides setting the address, you'll need something else. unfortunately, Bachmann has no upgrade path fromez command short of replacing it entirely. fortunately, there are several full featured entry level dcc systems out there which don't cost much more than ez command.

for a good book on dcc, try the Digitrx Big Book of DCC.     unlike the kalmbach book I had, it goes into a bit of details about what you can do with dcc. it isn't dumbed down to the point of uselessness like some of the books out there.

if as others have said, your locomotive comes with an 8 pin plug in the tender, adding dcc is as easy as plugging in any decoder with the 8 pin plug on it.

[garfielder]

the only problem I have with the ez command is its limited functionality. if you want to do any programming of your decoders besides setting the address, you'll need something else.

That's good to know. I will look at those books and see what my options are.

I have a question, after reading some posts out there I have a question about turnouts and stop lights.

1.) Is there really a good reason to go with DCC turnouts?
I mean there is obvious wiring benefit, but is there any drawbacks there as well?
For example i saw some people trying to add indicators for position and it seems to difficult with dcc.
Any other things you can or cannot do with DCC? What can you do with dcc switches that you won't be able with regular.
Are things like auto switching when train approach on particular track even possible or it's something that require way too much tinkering?

2.) Stop lights and Semaphores.
I didn't notice anything like that (beside pure cosmetics) on Bachmann site. I know that Marklin has semaphores that can be set to auto swithc once train passed and actually stop trains. (To be honest it wasn't clear to me how is that achieve and is it done on dcc or dc track.)
Are those kind of things possible to do on DCC? I have a feeling this is way advance topic and not many people do this kind of things...
I just want to make sure I don't go one particular path and later on find out that I need to change half the stuff I have to achieve some particular goal.

Those questions obviously might disappear as soon as I start and finish reading books that were recommended to me. I am pretty sure right now I sound indeed totally clueless about the whole thing

Last but not least I want to say thanks to all people who posted so far. I really appreciate your feedback you all make me feel very good about people in this hobby.

[richd286]

EZ Command is the reasonably priced entry level item, with it you can control more than one engine.  DCC turnouts keeps the action through the controller.  EZ Command has limited programming and you will want an upgrade eventually as your skill level increases.  After a year of track expansions and added turnouts I jumped to a Dynamis wireless.  I was able to control everything through the hand held anywhere in the room.  The EZ Command controller is now the power source at my work/repair bench.

[richd286]

On the topic of signalling,  I have read but not attempted to install a stationary accessory decoder near the turnout with the same address.  The concept is that when you direct the turnout, all decoders with that accessory address are activated. so the accessory could swing and/or flash when the turnout is thrown.

[jward]

there are several off the shelf signal controllers out there, but they are a bit pricey. atlas and digitrax offer them, along with others. working siglnals are made by atlas, nj international and tomar among others, and are available in a wide variety of styles. if you buy signals, look for the ones with led's instead of light bulbs. it isn't fun trying to change a burnt out bulb in an HO signal.

another cheaper way to have signals would be to buy the non working Bachmann ones, and add your own led's. this would make a good beginners project.

as for dcc controlled  switches, I don't really see enough of an advantage to justify the increased cost. i';m sure if you wanted to fully automate your layout they'd be a godsend, but other than that, i much prefer the traditional  approach of using pushbuttons on a control panel to operate them. I have a friend who has all switches decoder controlled, and unless you've memorized the address of each one, running a train there is a frustrating exercise in trial and error. on the control panel method, you can at least  have a map showing which buttons controil which switch.

you'd asked about panel lights. this is easily accomplished through the use of an atlas snap relay, wired in parallel with your switch motors. instructions come with the relay. the relay throws at the same time as your switch, and the contacts can be hooked up to red and green lights on your panel or to a signal.

[Bob_B]

....

....  I have a friend who has all switches decoder controlled, and unless you've memorized the address of each one, running a train there is a frustrating exercise in trial and error. on the control panel method, you can at least  have a map showing which buttons controil which switch.

....

I have a Dynamis setup with DCC switches and use your method to keep track of what button to press. I built my layout with the help of SCARM and with it you can print your layout. I then number each switch and sit the labelled plan in front of me. Couldn't be easier.