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ballasting turnouts

Started by pdlethbridge, August 27, 2007, 12:30:22 AM

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pdlethbridge

I am starting the ballasting of the mainline and turntable leads. I'm using woodland scenics fine grey ballast with scenic cement. I spray the area to be ballasted with water( a drop of soap added). All is going well except around the turnouts. Any thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated

Hunt

Place oil where you don’t want ballast to stick. Ballast per Woodland Scenics' directions. Use a pipette or eyedropper to carefully apply the Scenic Cement only where it is needed on the turnout. Let the glue dry for at least 24 hours. Now use a toothpick and a clean firm toothbrush to remove ballast interfering with the turnout operation.

pdlethbridge


Jay

Hunt,

Great information.  We have begun our ballasting as well but have stayed clear of the turnouts as we have tried to find a good way of doing this.
Jay Johnson
The Roundhouse
www.trainweb.org/theroundhouse


pdlethbridge

This is very useful info and I hope it will be added to. As I use homasote over plywood for my track base, it's easy to add things like an ash pit near the turntable. I cut the homasote with a #11 exacto knife and and then I cut and fit basswood to the side, made a short ramp and added track support then painted it all concrete. It's small but a good representation of an ash pit. Putting tools and a wheel barrel near by gives it some character.

Jim Banner

I for one would be interested to hear how you make out using Scenery Cement on Homasote.  I once tried white glue plus water to fix ballast in a yard laid on Homasote and it was a disaster - the Homasote swelled and warped.
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

r.cprmier

If you are going to do that sort of thing, seal the homasote first with either shellac, or another non-water soluable compound.  Otherwise, Woodland Scenics makes a good scenery cement that will work.

What I believe most guys use is an eyedropper and diluted white glue, "wetted" down with dish detergent. it is tedious, but works.  Oh, be sure to spray the ballast area with water/detergent first-the glue sets in better, because it is wetter...

No, guys...I don't want to hear it-it just went down that way-really!

RIch 

Rich

NEW YORK NEW HAVEN & HARTFORD RR. CO.
-GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN!

Guilford Guy

I usually start with an eyedropper and some rubbign alchohol
use the eyedropper and dribble the alcohol along the roadbed. This reduces surface tension by a lot. Then go along with a spoon and soak the ballast thoroughly with scenic cement or 50/50 water/white glue.
:)
Alex


Hunt

When using Homasote for a model railroad purpose, always seal it.

While there are several choices for the sealant, I suggest the use of inexpensive latex paint, preferably the color (close is good enough) of the ballast being used. After paint dries, lightly sand with large grit sand paper so the surface is not smooth. It gives the adhesive something to which it can bind.

SteamGene

I'm using a reddish brown close to Virginia red clay.  Not totally authentic for the Valley, but better than the dead gray and it does act as a seal.  Ballast is gray.
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"