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| | |-+  Xmas train won't work and it is brand new
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Author Topic: Xmas train won't work and it is brand new  (Read 13989 times)
RDW

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« Reply #15 on: November 26, 2013, 08:12:57 PM »

I am actually having this exact same issue with what seems to be the same model. 

Brand New Out of the Box: Wonderland Flyer Item Number 90047

All items in the photos above are relevant.  I have tested the track with a voltage meter and it seems I am getting plenty of power in the track, moves up and down with the controller head knob, but I get absolutely no movement in the locomotive.  Just sits completely dead..no indication of movement.
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Doneldon

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« Reply #16 on: November 26, 2013, 10:25:41 PM »

RDW-

What happens if you touch live feelers to wheels on opposite sides of your loco and tender?

                                                                                                                              -- D
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rogertra


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« Reply #17 on: November 26, 2013, 11:22:13 PM »

Would this topic not get a better response over on "Large" group considering this set is Large Scale?

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RDW

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« Reply #18 on: November 27, 2013, 11:37:22 AM »

If I touch live wires to the locomotive wheels, should it the engine turn over?  If I touch the live source, power clip or feelers from power clip to the wheels, I still get nothing...

When you say touch live feelers on opposite sides of loco and tender, do you mean touch one wire on the loco and one on the tender car?  wheels on opposite sides?
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GG1onFordsDTandI
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« Reply #19 on: November 27, 2013, 12:25:15 PM »

Would this topic not get a better response over on "Large" group considering this set is Large Scale?
Some of the best large scale guys are here already Wink. Return if you can. As mentioned a meter, or tester would help.
At the very least a 12v bulb with wires to use as test leads.

If you can turn motor by hand first to check gears (not by wheels, that's bad 99% of the time)

RDW do you have a meter? Does it check continuity/ohms? Is there electrical continuity from wheels thru pickup to pickup wire? To the board?
If jumping DC voltage to the motor leads causes motor movement a board/switch is out.
-or- With one motor wire off if possible, Does board have same approx. voltage at the motor outputs as the track does? Likely needs a motor if the voltage is good. Even more for sure, if voltage dives when the motor is connected, but not spinning.
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RDW

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« Reply #20 on: November 27, 2013, 03:02:55 PM »

I have not gotten to the granularity of opening up the locomotive to see the motor, and see the continuity of each phase from wheels, to board, etc.  I will try this next.

I can't turn the wheels by hand or by trying to move the side rods.

I have a voltage meter, which i used to see that i have juice in the track...it's more of a battery tester, so I am not seeing a specific ohms reading...but I can back into it.

Let me make sure I understand:
I should use the powerclip, or other power source with wires and touch the train wheels.  Then test the voltage at each stage? wheels, pickup, board, motor outputs?
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Bucksco

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« Reply #21 on: November 27, 2013, 03:50:08 PM »

If you purchased this item "New" you need to contact the retailer you purchased it from or contact the Bachmann Service department directly: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/service_2010.php
Your Bachmann purchase has a lifetime limited warranty and will be happily repaired or replaced.
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RDW

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« Reply #22 on: November 27, 2013, 04:08:32 PM »

Ok...this is disappointing...I have little kids dying to see this thing run around our Christmas tree...how long does it usually take to replace things?  This will determine how much I take this thing apart or keep trying to fix something.
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Bucksco

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« Reply #23 on: November 27, 2013, 06:34:49 PM »

If you contact the service department and explain what is going on perhaps they can walk you through the problem and you may not need to send it in. Have you contacted the retailer you purchased it from? This would be the easiest way to get a replacement.
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RDW

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« Reply #24 on: November 27, 2013, 08:07:17 PM »

Called Service department and parts department for days, left messages, no response.  I'll call the retailer to see what they can do.
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Bucksco

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« Reply #25 on: November 27, 2013, 08:34:41 PM »

I realize it won't help until Monday morning but call the direct number (215) 533-1600 and ask for the service manager Ms. Laura Harris. She will get you taken care of.
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #26 on: November 28, 2013, 07:49:39 AM »

Yardmaster is right Take it back to the dealer you bought it from.   If you bought it on Ebay it might not really be new. OK So try the following step by step If you have Your meter working at the 20 volt DC mark  , touch the probes to the track at several different locations while having someone turn the speed control up and down.  Your meter reading should vary from O on up at several points around your track.  If it does the problem is not the track or power pack.  If it does not then the problem iis either the track or the power supply.  If it does not put the meter on the Power supply leads on the power suppl;y and repeat the test. If the power goes up and down as you move the speed control then the power supply is OK and you should check all track joints to make sure they are firmly in place and repeat the test on the track. If you now get variable power in the track and the loco does not run the problem may be the locomotive.  Looking at the bottom of the loco be sure the arrow on the front truck is facing forward if not it could be caausing the power supply to shut down.  If it is not any of these, you may have a defective locomotive.  Bachmann service does a great job repairing locomotives under warranty.  Hopefully you filled out the warranty papers and sent them in.  If you did not get warranty papers with your set it is probably not new.  I would still try to get a replacement set from the seller.  Beyond this I cannot help much more, and can only say that you should review the instruction manual step by step one more time.  

If you lost your instructions here is the link to them.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/Big_Hauler_Instructions.pdf

Happy Thanksgiving and good luck.  

Bill
Forgot to mention:
Double check the switch behind the smoke box door, not the smoke switch but the other one, try it in both positions.  move it rapidly back and forth a few times as sometimes if the are stored in a damp place the contact can become corroded. 

You have not said why you will not take it back to the dealer for a replacement, this remains your best bet!!
« Last Edit: November 28, 2013, 08:07:13 AM by Loco Bill Canelos » Logged

Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
GG1onFordsDTandI
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« Reply #27 on: November 28, 2013, 09:54:26 AM »

I will try this next.

I can't turn the wheels by hand or by trying to move the side rods.

I have a voltage meter, which i used to see that i have juice in the track...it's more of a battery tester, so I am not seeing a specific ohms reading...but I can back into it.

Let me make sure I understand:
I should use the powerclip, or other power source with wires and touch the train wheels.  Then test the voltage at each stage? wheels, pickup, board, motor outputs?

First, keep trying that Bachmann contact! It wont hurt to ask about turnaround time, they are holiday conscious in my experience.

As a rule, don't move the wheels of model trains unless they turn very easy. Even then you'll make me nervous Grin

That tester is a very good approach. The actual Ohms aren't as important here as good continuity of the electrical paths. Following voltages can be a useful approach.
If you are 100% comfortable with this type of work, and prefer to fiddle, yes, I think you understood. The board is just a "fancy switch"(unless it changes AC to DC too[a rectifier]). Viewed as such, following the voltage path often leads to logical answers. After checking track/wheels/pickups. I prefer to jump power to inner leads so if the wheels spin I don't have hot wires flying around Roll Eyes

Many model railroaders choose the self repair options for fun Cheesy If you are that person, a good multi-meter may be a valid investment. A cheapie auto parts/tool store analog unit is under $20($10?) and often work better than you would guess, if you use the cheap one enough, you'll want a better one Grin research your type options  Wink.
How electricity flows, AC, DC, Sine wave(basic), amps, volts, impendence(ohm,resistance)-Get a handle on these basics, the rest is just approach to use, I.e.-How is it manipulated this time?
DC is safe for most ac motors, but don't put ac onto a dc motor. It will burn it up.
Removing one leg of motor power before moving power to test the motor, would ensure the board is not containing a short. But jumping a dc source to the connected motor isn't likely to do any harm to the board (I don't know about units with capacitance sensing controls on some of the new high end digital stuff, but I don't think you have that.)

.
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Doneldon

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« Reply #28 on: November 28, 2013, 11:57:42 PM »

RDW-

You should NOT be able to turn the drivers by hand so don't try. You can
do some serious damage to your loco if you force movement.
                                                                                              -- D
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kearley_1999

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« Reply #29 on: December 04, 2013, 09:23:02 AM »

There is a button inside the locomotive that has to be turned on.  Nobody came up with that simple little answer for us and I am suspecting that is the problem with the person who had the same problem as we did. 
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