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Author Topic: 'John Deere' diesel tender too heavy - why?  (Read 2208 times)

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« on: December 28, 2013, 08:54:25 PM »

I recently purchased a Bachmann 'John Deere' collectible HO set. Beautiful work, but the diesel tender weighs a ton and the loco cannot pull it. I unscrewed the body from the frame and found the chassis is solid metal with a plastic mount which looks like it should hold something. What's it for and why so heavy?  Sven44

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« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2013, 03:14:37 AM »

1)  Not sure what loco you are discussing.  What's it called on the packaging?

2)  Diesels do not have tenders.

3)  In this hobby, "connectors edition" means nothing, it's just a sales gimmick.



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« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2013, 04:41:04 AM »


I'm guessing that your diesel tender is actually a non-powered, dummy engine. It shouldn't keep the powered engine from performing unless something is binding or you have steep grades.

Other than some of the new and very expensive brass models from China, Korea or luxury brands from Europe, there aren't any modern collectible trains. The special sets are sold as advertising gimmicks. All they are is standard stock with custom paint schemes. While these aren't manufactured in great numbers, making them a little uncommon, there isn't any significant collector demand because they are, in the final analysis, just plastic trains and not the highest quality plastic trains at that.
                                                                                                                                                     -- D
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2013, 06:50:33 AM »

I did a search and I think I found it. What I think you have is a "set" of 2 engines known in real life (prototypical) as an A-unit and a B-unit. Together they are known as an A-B locomotive. The B unit has no cab and is controlled in the A-unit. An A unit can run alone, or in combos A-A, A-B, A-B-B, A-B-B-A, etc. It is likely an F7 or F9 made by EMD (or Alco FA?).

Your non powered B-unit, known as a dummy in modeling, may be able to be powered with added parts, maybe a new chassis,... Or....You may wish to lighten it with some carefully drilled holes. But first check that it, and all the rolling stock are rolling well. I think it was a Hawthorn Village, Dept 56, or similar. It will likely be entry level which is OK, some run great. But be aware buying "non set", i.e. single separate purchases will often get you much better quality (But not John Deer paint Cheesy). Should you have problems, it has a warranty, but don't judge it to harshly as it is an entry level set. Upgrading stock to better trucks, metal wheels for cars, and couplers is also possible and will help performance.

Wipe your loco wheels clean with some isopropyl alcohol  (avoid body paints). Do the same to the track. Check A-unit for a rubber traction tire, or grove where it used to be as some locos have them some don't. Get a lube kit to keep it healthy. Lube tutorials are all over You tube. Oil about every 10hrs(watch a tutorial). 

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« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2013, 12:02:16 PM »


Thanx very much for the info. I appreciate your time and you've given me some ideas to work on. Sven44
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