How to convert Climax trucks from plastic to diecast

Started by Chris9017, June 24, 2014, 10:49:36 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Chris9017

Hello, I thought I'd give helpful information on how to update an Old Bachmann Climax by swapping out the old plastic trucks to the new diecast trucks.

You will need some siscors, extra wire, heat shrink tubing of the right size, a heat shrink gun or butane lighter, a soldering iron, a dremel with a small grinding wheel, along with a drill bit, and safety glasses.

First step, remove the old plastic trucks, and cut the wires off the old pick ups that run to the motor, but keep the plastic mounts.   

Second Step, remove the mounts off the diecast trucks, because you won't need them.   

Note, The plastic mounts won't fit at first, so they need to be cut down to size by using a dremel tool with a small grinding wheel at the end.   

Third Step, Lightly grind off both ends of the old mount, so it's even on both ends, then dry fit the new truck on the mount so it fits nice and snug.  Shortly after dry fitting the truck, pull it back off.

Forth Step, swap out the grinding wheel for a drill bit on the dremel and drill four small holes on the top of the mount, but not too close to the bolster.   Drill 2 holes in front of the bolster, and 2 holes behind the bolster.  The wires for the motor, and picks need to go through the truck somewhere, so that's why we're adding four small holes to the top of the mount. 

Fifth step, unscrew the bolster pick ups and cut the wires off of them.   This will make it a more direct and simple operation, and will ensure your locomotive's long life of operation.

Sixth step, get your extended wires, soldering iron, heat shrink tubing, and heat shrink gun and/or butane lighter, and solder on your extended wires onto those that were cut from the bolster pick up.   Then cut some heat shrink tubing to cover the connections.   Repeat this process for the wires that were on the mount wired onto the old pick up plates for the old trucks.

Seventh Step, run all four wires through the small holes you drilled on the top of the truck mount.  Red goes on the right hand side, and black goes on the left hand side for common large scale run.

Eighth Step, get the new diecast trucks.  You will see that the wires that go to the pick ups and motor are small mounts, and attached to small metal plates.   Unscrew the small mounts, and cut the wires from the small metal plates.

Ninth Step, cut some of the extended wires, slide on some heat shrink tubing onto the wires and solder the wires you have on the right hand side of the mount to wires on the right hand side of the truck.  And then solder the wires you have on the left hand side of the mount, to the left hand side of the truck.   Then using your heat shrink tubing, cover the wire connections.

Tenth Step, slide your new diecast truck onto the mount, and screw everything back together.

Repeat this whole 10-step process on the other truck as well.

That's it, you're old 1998 Climax is now updated with new 2011 Metal Diecast trucks.  Your engine should now run a whole lot better and last a whole lot longer too.

I hope this helps. :)

mickeykelley

I finally gave up and sold my older Climax and bought a new one because the wire around the wiring to separate trucks from motor was just too much. Oh well.

Chris9017

Understandable.   

But incase anyone wants to keep their old Climax, but get it running again or update it, I hope this information helps.

The old trucks are known to have problems, and if run out doors under very high temperatures with a lot of friction, wear, evaporation, and corrosion, the plastic trucks will become brittle, and will either break or melt from the heat.   However, this problem won't happen with the diecast trucks which have the metal gears, hence why the shays were given the option for new trucks.   The Climax should have this option too, but more work is required, which in the long run is worth it.

tac

Quote from: Chris9017 on June 24, 2014, 10:49:36 PMHello, I thought I'd give helpful information on how to update an Old Bachmann Climax...

Chris - thank you for a great na informative post.  Many of us, and I'm one, are running our old Climaxii on borrowed time these days, more's the pity.  It is a most beautiful model - packed full of details - and to see it running around with all that Stevenson valve gear thrashing around behind the action is a real treat.

A new one is out of the question for most folks - here in UK it's well north of $1300.00, and to tell the truth I've never seen one here, so whether to keep our oldies going on the running tracks or gathering dust someplace is something that we'll all have to consider some time.

Best, and thanks again for posting.

tac
Ottawa Valley GRS


mickeykelley

Chris, don't get me wrong.  I would have moved this direction but gave up trying to find info.  I commented on several posts here trying to get updates about a person who was/did do this.  Once I got the old trucks off and actually saw what George (GIRR) and others did just to separate the pickups from the motor, I said forget it and ordered the new.  Yes I took a loss on the old vs the new, but the time and frustration was just not worth it.  When I made my decision, the word was no way new metal would work on old so I was not interested in blazing new trails.  But I'm really glad you did blaze the trail for others. My only suggestion would be a few pics of important points.