2-8-0 Troubles

[Scott_ATL]

I just received my second Bachmann 2-8-0 "New In Box" (secondhand). It truly looks as though it has never been used - still had the static plastic protective film over the engine itself. In my excitement, I put her on the test track (a simple EZ track 2'x3' oval) and nada...no power, no light, nothing. Ugh. This is the second "NIB" Bachmann 2-8-0 that I have bought and received that has exhibited this issue. The first one (DCC Ready version), I was able to get momentary power, but never able to sustain it. I cleaned all the pickups on it, checked the undercarriage for being too tight, etc., but still had no luck. I sent it in to Bachmann service and they fixed it...stated they gave it a cleaning and conductive lube. (BTW, thanks Bachmann Service - EXCELLENT service & turnaround!)  Well, before I sent it in, I did a cleaning on the wheels, pickups, etc. but to no avail. So, what did Bachmann service do that I didn't do? LOL

So anyway, once serviced, the first one performs so well, I dove in and bought another; this second one is DCC Equipped - and according to the instructions, is backwards compatible with DC layouts (which I currently am running as I only typically run one engine at a time) and I didn't expect to have any issues with this engine. So, my long winded question is this - is there a "secret" to these 2-8-0s? Do you have to whisper sweet nothings to them? Rub them gently and promise wine and chocolates? LOL I've now bought two - one lightly used and the other "NIB", and neither would run initially on my test layout.

I know these are excellent steamers, as the first one I own has proven. So, am I just an idiot, have bad luck, or am I missing something that I'm supposed to do? Any help / advice / tips would be greatly appreciated.

My test set-up:
2'x3' simple EZ Track oval - no turnouts, etc.
PS: MRC Tech II 2500 (I even tried my basic Bachmann power supply that came with a set - nada.)

Other engines that run fine on the test track: Minitrix 4-6-2; Bachmann 2-8-0 (DCC ready); Bachmann Lt Mtn 4-8-2 (DCC ready); Bachmann Prairie 2-6-2; Bachmann Spectrum F7A/B;  2 versions of the Spectrum Dash 8-40 CW (both DCC ready).

Thanks in advance,
Scott

[ACY]

It is possible the locomotive was not new and was resealed in shrinkwrap to give the appearence of being new.

[skipgear]

The standard fix for the problem on the Non-DCC version is to pull the boiler and check the connections where they clip onto the frame for electrical pickup.  Unfortunately, that shouldn't be the problem with the DCC version as the decoder is directly connected to the tender pickup and the motor so even if the loco was getting power through the frame, the tender is enough to power things. I have seen tenders that the pickups did not make contact, which could be an issue but less likely.

If it has sat for a long time, the brushes could be stuck or lube has wicked down them. Sometimes turning the motor over by hand can be enough to get it over the hump.

[Scott_ATL]

Is there a way to bypass the DCC board, without breaking off the decoder and hard soldering the connections as indicated in the instructions?  Or will the engine operate without the tender/board at all?  I ask, because I'm not even getting power to the light.

[skipgear]

Is there a way to bypass the DCC board, without breaking off the decoder and hard soldering the connections as indicated in the instructions?  Or will the engine operate without the tender/board at all?  I ask, because I'm not even getting power to the light.

It's possible that it has been programmed to not run on analog. that is an option for DCC decoders so that when running on multi source layouts, the loco doesn't run away when it encounters DC power.

[Scott_ATL]

I guess there's no way to reset to factory defaults without having a DCC system to reset it?

[ACY]

I guess there's no way to reset to factory defaults without having a DCC system to reset it?

You need a DCC system capable of programming to reset the decoder, so this would exclude the EZ-Command but a Dynamis would work.

[Scott_ATL]

It's going back to the seller tomorrow. Now to find another non-DCC equipped 2-8-0 like my good one.

[brokemoto]

I do not have any DCC versions, but I have several DC versions.  

One of the problems with the DC versions was that the stiff wires in the drawbar that contact the locomotive did not make good contact with the post on the aft of the locomotive where they transferred current collected by the tender to the locomotive.  I found it necessary on every one to disconnect the tender, clean the stiff wires, then carefully pinch in the stiff wires.  Finally, reconnect the locomotive to the tender and begin break in.  The tender has a crucial role to play in the runnability of these things, as from it comes most of the electrical contact.  Let the following witness this:  Many SP modellers have bought Model Powers half-wheels live Vanderbilt, which is based on a Vanderbilt that SP used on its smaller steam, and tried to swap it as-is for the USRA standard that B-mann issues on this locomotive.  Almost to a man, they complained about the poor performance.  Those who modified the MP Vanderbilt to all wheels live reported that it was running like its old self, once more.


These things require a long break in time.  Invest that time, and you will receive, as a reward, a locomotive that runs excellently through all speed ranges.  This thing even holds a steady creep and without flywheels.

Yeah, it requires minor tinkering, but the SPECTRUM 2-8-0 is one of the standards against which N scale steam is measured; the other would be the Kato USRA heavy 2-8-2.  If nothing else, it demonstrates that it is possible to get excellent pulling power from an average sized N scale steam locomotive.

When discussing N scale steam, it is always important to be mindful of Miranda's Maxim as explained by ke:  "The poor performance of many N scale steam locomotives is almost always directly attributable to poor electrical contact".  It appears that poor electrical contact is your problem.  The stiff wires in the tender drawbar are frequently the culprit on this, and other B-mann steam.

[Scott_ATL]

Thanks for the info Brokemoto, it's appreciated! Unfortunately, the DC version isn't giving me any grief; it's the DCC-equipped version. On the off chance that the loco had been programmed for DCC only, I took it to a local train store I found, and they put it on their test track - it was DOA for them too. They offered to try and fix it, but I declined and am returning it to the seller and will find another non-DCC version to purchase.
Thanks again!