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Author Topic: USRA Light 2-8-2 - Release Date?  (Read 6820 times)
napa15

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« on: February 19, 2015, 04:50:47 PM »

I've been looking around and can't find any information as to when these engines will be released. I see them in the 2015 Catalog. Can someone shed some light on this? Will we be able to pre-order anywhere?

Specifically, I want the Southern #4501 - Item# 54403

Thanks in advance.
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Trainman203

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« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2015, 05:53:16 PM »

The real 4501 predates the USRA design.
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Modeling the New Iberia and Northern 1945
electrical whiz kid

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« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2015, 06:50:29 PM »

...How about 'painted and unlettered'?  Which preceded which?
SGT C.
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jonathan


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« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2015, 06:56:10 PM »

Original release date was 31 December.  Latest word from a previous post says we are looking at early Spring.  I did notice in the catalog; the photo is still a computer generated image, not an actual model.  So...

I am looking forward to the sound value B&O version of course.  looking forward to some super-detailing and weathering (anticipation).

Regards,

Jonathan
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Trainman203

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« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2015, 07:18:39 PM »

...How about 'painted and unlettered'?  Which preceded which?
SGT C.

All I know about is the 4501, which was built in 1911 and is an earlier design than the USRA, whose designs date to 1917 if I recall.

The USRA is a very interesting historical topic to read, the wartime nationalization of the railroads because the companies couldn't get along in many ways and bogged traffic down severely in the east in particular..... one reason mostly eastern roads got USRA engines.  The USRA standardization  of engine designs, very successful and copied for decades, is said by many to be the only good thing the USRA did .  The railroads hated the USRA totally and went overboard to cooperate during WW ll to avoid a replay.
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Modeling the New Iberia and Northern 1945
KEVIN296

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« Reply #5 on: February 19, 2015, 07:29:22 PM »

how do you open the 1800s coach car and combine to put liting in
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TwinZephyr

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« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2015, 10:01:20 PM »

There are two tabs under the floor directly under the doors.  Push the tab towards the opposite end of the car (horizontal direction) while gently pulling the end platform away from the body (vertical direction).

how do you open the 1800s coach car and combine to put liting in
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richardl
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« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2015, 08:50:44 PM »

Micro Mark has pre-orders for $236.95 with sound but not in the road name you want.

I would keep an eye on The Favorite Spot. They also handle a lot of Bachmann products but nothing on pre-orders.

Both I have bought from.

Toy Train Heaven will have them for $220, DCC on board no sound in Southern. $279 sound.

Google Bachmann Southern #4501 54403 for more sources.

Rich
« Last Edit: June 18, 2015, 08:57:05 PM by richardl » Logged
rogertra


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« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2015, 03:58:50 PM »

Micro Mark has pre-orders for $236.95 with sound but not in the road name you want.


Then buy any road name a re-decal it.  Smiley

I freelance to have to do that all the time.  Re-decaling is no big deal.



Cheers

Roger T.

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electrical whiz kid

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« Reply #9 on: June 22, 2015, 01:35:45 PM »

Roger;
What do you use as a gloss coat? 
Rich C.
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rogertra


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« Reply #10 on: June 22, 2015, 02:54:23 PM »

Roger;
What do you use as a gloss coat?  
Rich C.

I generally spray my black locos with matte spray paint from a can as I find it doesn't have a tendency to run as much as gloss paint seems to.  Bitter experience speaking here.

Once the paint is fully dried, I use the "sniff test", if you can't smell the paint, it's dry, I then give the model a shot of Testors' Glosscote usually just where the decals will be going.

Once again, I use the "sniff test" to see if the Glosscote is dry and I then apply the decals and use Solvaset to get them to snuggle down.  When the decals are dry, usually I wait until the next day, I give them a light coat of Dullcote to protect them while I apply the weathering, again after the "sniff test".  Once the model is weathered to my satisfaction, I give the whole model a light spray of Dullcote to seal everything.

It usually takes me three days to paint, decal and weather a loco but of course that's 99% waiting time.

Cheers

Roger T.





« Last Edit: June 22, 2015, 08:37:49 PM by rogertra » Logged

jbrock27

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« Reply #11 on: June 22, 2015, 09:11:16 PM »

Question: what does putting Glosscote down prior to putting the decals down do?
Thank you.
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rogertra


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« Reply #12 on: June 22, 2015, 09:39:45 PM »


Question: what does putting Glosscote down prior to putting the decals down do?
Thank you.


Gloss finish is best for water slide decals, they love the smooth surface.  Because I use matte paint and it has a rough surface, I apply a shot of gloss just where the decals will go.  Cab and tender sides usually.  I use a fine brush to put a dab of gloss in the number boards.

Once the decals are dry and have been cleaned of excess glue, using a cotton swab, that's when I apply a light shot of Dullcote over the cab side numbers and tender.  After the weathering, I apply another dab of gloss on the number boards as they are supposed to glass.

I then weather using whatever I have to hand but mainly powders like chalk and make up.  Eye shadows are also useful.  If you use eye shadow, make sure it's without glitter.

I've been known to use washes both water based and oil based.  On my freight cars, I bush paint using an oil based aluminium paint and while it's still wet I use a large brush or sometimes a spray can to paint the roof "boxcar" red.  As the two paints don't mix, you get a nice peeling paint look.  Practice first though.  For "boxcar red" I use spray red primer.  After it's weathered, as all my cars and locos are, you cannot tell the difference no matter what brand of red primer you use.  Place my painted boxcar next to weathered store bought car and you can;t tell the difference.  Besides, back in the days of 40ft boxcars, no matter the road name, they were all slightly different shades of red, even cars with the same road name, thansk to weathering and sunshine.

Cheers

Roger T.

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Bucksco

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« Reply #13 on: June 22, 2015, 09:41:32 PM »

The clear film around the decal blends with the glosscote and then disappears when the flat coat is applied. If you don't apply gloss under the decal the carrier film will "silver" when dullcote is applied over them.
« Last Edit: June 23, 2015, 09:20:30 AM by Yardmaster » Logged
jbrock27

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« Reply #14 on: June 23, 2015, 06:22:40 AM »

Thank you for the additional information Roger and for your response as well Yardmaster.
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