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| | |-+  Suggestions for a Newbie Train Set?
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Author Topic: Suggestions for a Newbie Train Set?  (Read 11194 times)
jward


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« Reply #30 on: December 28, 2014, 11:35:49 PM »

walkways are separate. poste this last night, but it must not have gone through.

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Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA
jbrock27

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« Reply #31 on: December 29, 2014, 07:19:33 AM »

Cool.  Thank you for your response and help Captain.

There seems to have been some quirky things going on with postings disappearing as of late.  And I don't mean ones that are put up, then get deleted.
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Keep Calm and Carry On
Fxguy1

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« Reply #32 on: January 08, 2015, 02:08:07 PM »

Well, I made a decision to go the piecemeal route. I decided to try and follow the book "HO Railroad from start to finish" by Jim Kelly. So I bought the Atlas code 100 nickel silver track and cork roadbed. I bought a Walthers Santa Fe locomotive to start off with and a Railpower 1300 controller to give me a basic start. I figure by following the book it will take me a while to go through each chapter / step and that will help spread the cost over a longer period of time. I'm building a table using 1X2 frame with foam core board as the top /surface.

The only problem I'm seeing is that some of the components used in the book are no longer available (not very many though! ) and so I have to find a suitable alternative to the Con-Cor 6100 ramp/hopper car set and the operating hopper cars. Also need to find an alternative for the faller B-950 Cement Mix Plant.

Any suggestions?
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jbrock27

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« Reply #33 on: January 08, 2015, 08:23:38 PM »

I like all your choices so far!
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jward


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« Reply #34 on: January 08, 2015, 08:58:01 PM »

I would go a little heavier than 1x2 on your framework. I usually use 1x4s, better to overbuild than underbuild.
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Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA
rogertra


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« Reply #35 on: January 08, 2015, 09:27:31 PM »

I would go a little heavier than 1x2 on your framework. I usually use 1x4s, better to overbuild than underbuild.

I agree while, 2 x 4s are over kill.

I use 3/4" x 4"reject cabinet grade plywood.  That's cabinet grade plywood with minor defects making it unsuitable for cabinets but great for benchwork and sub-roadbed, risers, etc., etc.  I then use 2 x 2 legs on the aisle side of my benchwork while the side against the walls is screwed to the wall studs.  Angle braces from the legs to the wall side of the benchwork, forming a triangle, makes for very ridge and solid benchwork for my 10 x 30 foot around the walls railroad.  Fortunately I have access to a quality table saw for cutting 4" wide strips of 3/4" is no problem.
    
Cheers

Roger T.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2015, 10:19:33 PM by rogertra » Logged

Fxguy1

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« Reply #36 on: January 08, 2015, 10:57:56 PM »

I've already made the decision that I'm no longer using foam core board anyways, not after this setup. I'm trying my best to make it work because I spent the money on it. Especially when luan 1/4" is only $9.99 a sheet at Menards. The 1X2 isn't too bad. I framed it out and then placed a crossbeam where the seams are for the foam core board. I made the frame larger so that I was able to sink the foam core board flush with the top and tacked strips around the edge to nail it to.

But definitely would prefer doing some benchwork next time.

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