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Author Topic: Derailment problem  (Read 2947 times)
mlt1

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« on: October 20, 2007, 05:37:00 PM »

Hello All,

Got a problem with derailment on a turnout (switch track). On a manually switched turnout, I have a problem with my new Silver Streak Santa Fe GP40 EMD.  Whether I run the engine forward or backward, it jumps the rail with the inboard axle of the trailing truck.  Know what I mean?  The leading axle/wheels on the trailing truck rides up the inside of the outer rail of the EZ track turnout (one inch from the joint with the next piece) when I come into the turnout from the curved section toward the bottom of the "Y", so to speak.  Now, let me tell you what I've tried first: I've checked that the rail joiners are not sticking up too far.  I've checked for high spots on the rail, both on the surface the wheel rides on as well as the inner surface of the rail, along where the wheel "flange" travels.  I noticed and corrected when the outer rail was slightly bent upward.  It's level now.  I've checked that the turnout is straightly connected with the next piece, and not gapping on one side.  I tried slightly snugging the inside screw in the engine to reduce excess slop or wobble of the looser of the two trucks (it was the front truck).  None of these things helped.  The only other thing I noticed was on the inboard wheels/axle of both trucks (i.e. the wheels/axles closest to the middle of the engine) there appears to be what looks like a rubber coating on the surface of the wheel that rides on the rail.  This is effectively reducing the difference in diameters between the wheel surface that rides on the track and the "flange" that rides along the inside of the track (to help keep the wheel on the track?).  Can I scrape this coating off?

Any suggestions on alleviating these derailments or this last observation?

Thanks,      Smiley
mlt1
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SteamGene

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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2007, 06:23:52 PM »

Have you checked the wheels for proper gauge?
Gene
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Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"
taz-of-boyds

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« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2007, 09:35:01 PM »

If the rubber coating is a taction tire I think you don't want to scrape it off.
Charles
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mlt1

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« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2007, 12:08:26 PM »

Gene,

How do I check the gauge?  Is there a tool I need to buy to measure the rail spacing?    Embarrassed

Thanks.   Smiley
mlt1
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mlt1

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« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2007, 12:12:03 PM »

Charles,

I'm not sure what the purpose of the wheel coating is.  I was wondering if it was for traction.  That's why I haven't taken it off yet.  Thanks for the caution.

Thanks for the thought of checking the gauge, Gene.  I'm not sure how to do that though.

mlt1
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Mike

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« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2007, 01:58:56 PM »

Mlt1- Buy an NMRA gauge for your scale (HO?), and use it to measure the wheel gauge. If it is incorrect, grab one wheel set and twist the wheels while pulling or pushing to get the correct gauge. Most any hobby shop will the gauge.- Mike S.
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JerryB

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« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2007, 05:36:36 PM »

You can also buy the NMRA track & wheel gauges directly from the NMRA. See:
https://www.nmrastores.com/cgi/NMRA_Store_NonMembers/nmra-store.cgi?ACTION=thispage&thispage=page3.html&ORDER_ID=193550610
The H0 gauges are made from metal and are actually complete track, wheel flange and clearance gauges. They are really a requirement for anyone building and / or operating a model RR.

H0 gauges are $12.00 for non-members and $5.00 for NMRA members. I think hobby shops charge about the same. They are also available from Micro-Mark (see: [url]http://www.micro-mark.com/[/url for $18.95. There is a good picture on the Micro-Mark site.

Happy RRing,

Jerry Bowers
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Sequoia Pacific RR in 1:20 / 70.6mm
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mlt1

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« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2007, 06:49:33 PM »

Thanks, guys.    Smiley

mlt1
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