Reversing

[rufuswhite@gmx.com]

Okay, so I'll trim my roadbed for the #5 wye, and I'll use a separate transformer for accessories.  Thanks, y'all.

[jward]

I am assuming you already have a snap relay? if so, do the following....

first off, both rails must be insulated on each of the 2 legs of your wye that connect to your main track. you can do this by replacing the metal rail joiners with plastic ones. those 4 insulated joints should be the only insulated ones in your wye formation. checque with your meter, the wye switch and the tail track should no receive no power from the mainline.

next step, assuming you have already wired the wye switch motor to the power pack, disconnect the wire and cut about halfway down the cable. separate each wire from the others, and connect them to a terminal block. you should have wires in 3 positions on the block, with the center wires from each half of the switch cable connected to the center position on the block. next connect the outer wires to the outer positions on the block. at this point, you should have 2 wires connected to each position on the block.

next, the snap relay should have come with short 3 conductor cable, with red/green & black wires. connect one end of this cable to the 3 contacts on the very end of the snap relay, with the black wire on the center terminal and the other two on the outer terminals. do the same with the other end of the cable, at the terminal block, black wire to center terminal. at this point, test the switch and snap relay, both should throw when you activate the switch control box.

along each side of the snap relay you will notice terminals marked a, b & c. connect the two "c" terminals to the rails of the tail track, one terminal to each rail. connect the "a" terminals on the relay to the rails of your mainline track, one to each rail. finally, cut two short wires and use them to jumper the "a" terminal on one side of the relay to the "b" terminal on the opposite side. connect the other "a" terminal to  the remaining "b" terminal, the end result should look like an X.

now, test the wye by throwing the switch and snap relay again. both should move when you activate the control box. test with your meter to ensure that the rails on either side of the gap, on the track that the wye switch is lined for, are the same polarity. you should get a reading of 0 volts here. if not, reverse the red and green wires at the end of the snap relay, and throw the switch again. this should give you the correct polarity to run a locomotive into the tail track and stop. throw the switch, and the polarity should be good to run the locomotive out the other leg of the wye to the mainline.

sorry, I have no wiring diagram to give you, but I hope these step by step instructions are enough to guide you through the wiring. it's really a lot easier than it sounds.

[rufuswhite@gmx.com]

Yes, that does sound complicated, but I can visualize the operation.  I don't have a snap relay yet, so that will be my next step.  I can see that a snap relay would be better than the automatic module because of the cost.  Since I have to throw the switch anyway, the snap relay/switch motor combination would be near enough automatic.

Meanwhile, I have discovered more mysteries concerning track power.  After I isolated my wye, I ran the train over it expecting it to stop.  On one leg, it stopped all right, but on the other leg, it stopped at a whole other turnout before it got to the isolated section.  I'll have to do some investigating, but it seems to have something to do with the frog.  I figure to take some continuity readings and compare with another turnout.  Please let me know if you hear of a way I can get some schematic diagrams.  A picture really is worth a thousand words.