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Author Topic: Caboose On The Way  (Read 9677 times)
Chuck N

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« Reply #15 on: May 21, 2015, 09:10:28 AM »

A couple more comments.  I use the "G" gauge size coupler rather than the gauge "1".  The "G" is larger and holds a little better on rough track.  Some cars with a mounting block for the body mounted #830 coupler.  If the block is there I will use the body mount coupler.  If the car requires surgery, any cutting, I will use the truck mounted #831.  For those, the only cutting required is the small plastic tab, button, on the end of the tongue.


PS here is a link to a thread showing my relettered and painted Bachmann passenger cars.  While most of my cars have couplers at the body mount height, I kept this train at the truck mounted height with B'mann knuckle couplers.  The exception if the front coupler on the baggage car.  I had to raise it to couple with the engine.

I have had no problems with this train coming uncoupled.  It is on a tile floor, rather than ground.

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« Reply #16 on: May 21, 2015, 09:47:48 PM »

Thank you Chuck N,

Nearly everything you said was Greek to me but I'm working to take it in. I'm getting that truck mounted means on the movable wheel part underneath. I had no idea you could have them on the wheels or just direct to the body of the car. It would seem that to the truck would be easiest for turning.

I'm taking all this in and will do some additional web research. I really do appreciate the information.

By the way,...I never was a train guy but now I find myself looking and taking notice. There is some really great history...not just with the train itself but with the era and what people were doing with the trains. Amazing things they are.

Thank you!

I can type my handle with one hand.

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« Reply #17 on: May 22, 2015, 07:57:45 AM »

choosing knuckles is relatively easy it's the mounting of knuckles to all match the same high. Bachmann likes to us a low coupler, meaning it's closer to the rail head. The other company's are either NMRA standard or real close. You can find a knuckle gauge at your local hobby shop they also work for display buffers. Since your running inside you don't have to worry about grades on your line. If you have pets you'll have debris but that's easily movable.

Enjoy yourself with the hobby and we always love to answer any questions. Smiley
Chuck N

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« Reply #18 on: May 22, 2015, 04:09:36 PM »


Yes the truck is the wheel assembly that screws on to the car frame.  Many trucks have a tongue that sticks out from the center of the frame.  The various types of couplers are attached to that tongue.  Body mounted couplers are attached directly to the underside of the car.

FYI, As long as you just pull your cars there is very little difference in the performance of truck mounted couplers and body mounted couplers.  The problem comes when you try to push a string of cars with an engine, such as backing up through a curve, either on the mainline or onto the diverging track on a switch.  The engine pushes on the truck which easily pivots under the car and will often derail the first truck on the car directly behind the engine.  With body mounted couplers you are pushing against the whole car.

I have also had problems pushing a snow plow with truck mounted couplers derailing when entering a curve when the snow is heavy or deep.


« Last Edit: May 22, 2015, 05:44:45 PM by Chuck N » Logged
Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947

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« Reply #19 on: May 23, 2015, 09:44:10 AM »

I use truck mounted couplers all the time and do switching without a problem.   I can back 15 cars up my 2.5% grade and through a crossover without derailing the cars.  I do operate like a real railroad and do not speed while backing(or going forward) through the switches, but I do use the wide radius switches.    I am convinced that properly laid track is the key to good operation with truck mounted couplers.  I use both Bachmann and USAT couplers as they work together pretty well.

My son disagrees with me and body mounts his couplers using only kadee couplers.  He is a freak about good track, but he just feels that brand of couplers looks more like the correct size and is more prototypical being body mounted.

So who is right?   Well, we both are because we have our own reasons for doing what we do.  I cannot afford to change to the expensive couplers and do not want to go to all the work of changing them, while he can afford whatever he wants and likes doing the conversions.  We just have a couple of conversion cars so we can run each others cars on both railroads.

My son uses an Aristocraft 1:29 snow plow gondola loaded with rock and on that tight couplers are a must.

this video shows us plowing snow on his layout, and if you watch it to the end you will see the door  which allow trains to run under the house!!

The rough running in this video is due to bits of ice on the track.  we definitely have fun plowing snow.  The trains are battery powered.

have fun!


Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway
Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

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« Reply #20 on: May 24, 2015, 04:13:00 PM »

Thanks sveryone. Now that my caboose has arrived I see a slightly different arrangement where the couplers are concerned. I now better understand truck mounted and body mounted. I dont have a fancy track and turnouts (yet) and really like the simplicity of the hook and loop set simple. After taking the one that came with my train apart and doing the same with my other brand caboose some of the dimensional considerations now make sense.

Thanks for the education!

I can type my handle with one hand.
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