More Boxcar Projects

[Desertdweller]

jonathan,

Your weathering work really looks nice!

And I'm glad to see two CGW boxcars.  This was one of my favorite local roads in Minnesota.  Too bad it was taken over and pretty much dismantled by a competitor I will not mention.

Les

[ebtnut]

Hey, Jonathon, did you get one of the new Mikes?  If so, have you had it apart?  Curious if the domes are separate or cast into the boiler.  I think the sand dome is about 6 scale inches too tall, and might contemplate replacing it if it isn't too big a hassle. 

[ryeguyisme]

Hey, Jonathon, did you get one of the new Mikes?  If so, have you had it apart?  Curious if the domes are separate or cast into the boiler.  I think the sand dome is about 6 scale inches too tall, and might contemplate replacing it if it isn't too big a hassle. 

I had inquired about this in an earlier post, and the official answer is they're cast onto the boiler not separate... the exploded parts diagrams also show this..

Though I wish bachmann would do separately applied domes as it would help customization a great deal not to mention bachmann can market a lot more prototypes this way with a variety of details... ehhh one can dream.

[ebtnut]

Thanks, Rye Guy.  I suspected that was the case from the diagram, but wanted to be sure.  If I can find a good dome casting I may go ahead with the repalcement.  There's a pic of the prototype 4508 in the Rails Northeast B&O roster site that shows the loco with a big Vandy tender behind it.  That might make an interesting conversion.

[Desertdweller]

jonathan,

No.  CGW 90017.  When I wrote that, I didn't realize it was two pictures of the same car.

Les

[WoundedBear]

You guys mind if I post in this thread? My modeling is certainly nowhere near as prototypical as Jon and Wayne's is, but I try. My color choices tend to be a little more "vibrant" shall we say. I was looking for something to do a few days ago, and grabbed these two True-Line CP boxcars and decided it was time to put ome years on them.

Here I am discussing powders, yet these two never saw a speck. This was all done over the factory finish with dry brushing and washes and lots of dull coat. The only spray paint used here was the dullcoat and a misting of some Krylon camo color on the trucks. The roofs were done with Testor's new enamel stains, both light and dark rust. For a wash I use 50/50 alky/water and some cheapo craft acrylic flat black. Everything got a dry brushing with an earth tone, a gray, some browns for rust and some WWII Africa Campaign camo colors from model master. I have no clue as far as superdetailing goes. I know nothing about real railroads other than the basics Like I've said before, I'm not a model railroader.....I'm a modeller who got hooked on railroad models

That being said, I tend to work with what I have, and just try to bring out the best in each kit or car I get my hands on. I use the LRTM method of modeling....Looks Right To Me. I'm also not afraid to jump in and try something new or different. Sometimes the best effects are what I call "happy accidents".








Sid

[WoundedBear]

This next one is an old Roundhouse RTR model from a few years back. This one still has room for improvement. It was one of my earliest adventures with the powders. The 4-6-0 at the head end is one of my favorite loco's on my layout. Couldn't resist showing it again






Enjoy...........Sid

[jonathan]

Very nice, Sid!

I especially like the crisp detail on the CP car. The weathering really enhances the rivets and grabs.

Dry-brushing has been my method of choice until now. I have enjoyed playing with the powders so far.

To answer an earlier question; I have not obtained the new Mike, yet. It's on my to-do list.  Although, I have gathered a number of brass detail parts in anticipation.

Regards,

Jonathan

[WoundedBear]

Thanks guys.

Wayne......You're right about the manufacturer of the models.....It was LifeLike under License from Hobbycraft Canada I believe. Maybe I should start keepin track of this stuff Hmmm....nah....lololol.

I have three of those THB Fowler cars on the layout  myself. They're next on the hit list I think. I also just googled CDS. I had never heard of them, but it looks like they are what I need. Thanks for the clue. I prefer dry transfer to decals....way less piddlefartin around

Sid

[jonathan]

Here are several cars I just finished working on, but may not be completed, yet.

First is a craftsman kit boxcar (Sunshine).  I was never satisfied with my paint job on this model, so I went to town with the weathering. I feel better about it now:




Next, are a couple of kit hoppers. I just used a bit of soot to highlight:




Finally, another hopper, but a R-T-R model.  It was a bit pricey due to the superdetailing.  Notice he shadows thrown off by the roof-walk.  The hatches open and so on. Still, I never really liked this car for some reason.  So, I'm going to weather it like crazy.  I just finished a bunch of rust.  Next, I'm going to throw soot all over it.  One may not be able to read the markings when I'm done:

That'll show it who's boss.  

Regards,

Jonathan

[Desertdweller]

Sid,

Beautiful job on your lumber company boxcar.  But it would drive a yard clerk or conductor nuts.  No reporting marks or road number.

Les

[WoundedBear]

Hi Les....

Thanks for the compliments on the lumber boxcar. Here's a pic of her sister car....still unweathered. I don't know about reporting marks, but as for road numbers, the car number is on the door. This one is #4....the other is #1. The road numbers are just in an unusual spot.



Sid

[Desertdweller]

Sid,

I was worried that you might take offense at my post, and I'm glad to see you did not.  Posting from the perspective of someone who had been a yard clerk for 10 years, before going into engine service the car would have puzzled me.
Reporting marks and numbers are shown on the left-hand side of the carbody as someone stands facing it.  The reason is so they can be found quickly (like if the car initials and numbers are being written down as a cut of cars is pulled past the writer.  There may not be time to hunt for these.

I thought maybe the "No. 1" on the door may be a car number, but it could also refer to a mill number or even part of the product name (Jack Daniel's Number 7).  Also, car doors were easily damaged and replaced.  If the door carried the car number, it would have to be painted on the replacement door.

At a later time, possibly later than the era you are modeling, the AAR (Association of American Railroads) published an agreed-upon set of standards for car lettering.  This would have greatly cut down on confusion.  As railroads had to pay an equipment usage fee (car hire) to the owner of the car (called per diem), it was important to them to get this right.  On a small railroad that does not send its cars off-line, it probably wouldn't matter much, except to identify cars in train lists as loads or empties.


Les

[jonathan]

Now that my health is returning, thought I'd start off with a simple project, one of my standby wagon top boxcars:





I've added a new twist... I've cleaned out the interior and modified the doors and door openings.  I want to added a loaded interior to the car, just to see if I can.  So, I took some Evergreen siding and built a floor for the interior. Progress so far:







Of course, now I have a new problem... what colors to use on the interior and, oh yeah, what shall the load be for the car? 

Should be able to figure it all out eventually.

Regards,

Jonathan

[WoundedBear]

Nice.....I like seeing the raw work before the paint covers up all that effort. This is a resin kit? Your underside detailing is really nice.....is that part of the kit? If not, whose scale chain do you use?

Sid