Original Williams Baldwin Shark

Started by Bob Banjany, January 20, 2016, 10:53:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Bob Banjany

I have just purchased New Old Stock Williams Reproduction Pennsylvania Brass Shell Baldwin Shark with B unit.. .. Gorgeous!! Slight problem.. When running for about 5 minutes it just STOPS !! Lights on but in like neutral.. You have to reverse direction and enter neutral 2 or 3 times to get it to move forward again, then it repeats after a few minutes.. Suggestions..?  I have lubed the axles, greased the gears with white lithium grease and checked the track pick up rollers..All Looking good and running smooth until it JUST STOPS ..

Help !!!

Bob Banjany

Update !!.. This stops dead after 5 to 10 min..Lights go out on the A unit, lights on passenger cars stay lit.. Wait 3-5 sec and this takes off again..? Looks like I have a ckt bd issue..Has anyone seen this before..? Like I said, this is a Williams Reproduction so it is an old style, the FNR bd has NO connectors on it and is all hardwired (soldered).. I have checked this thoroughly, there are no loose wires or any cold looking solder joints..  Just stops .. Motors arent hot, just warm from running for 5-10 min.. I am sure this is a FNR bd..Are the newer ones compatible..?

Any suggestions would be helpful..

Thanks,
Bob Banjany

wmwalker

Bob
The new reversing boards are compatible. You will have to attach the new leads with plugs on them to each motor so you can then plug them into the new board. Also the hot lead from the rollers to the new board. Now once that is installed you can add sound equipment by just plug and play.

I hope this was helpful and I really like the new boards as well as the new 16 bit sound system. In fact I have replaced several of my True blast II sound with the new 16 bit sound. In my opinion WBB has really step up there game and kept the cost down in my budget. :)
Thanks
Wyatt

Bob Banjany

yes .. Thank you..You have been very helpful..  So you as well think this is a bad control bd..? I would like to repair it myself, I sure it is either a bad power transistor or maybe even the bridge rectifier..Funny thing the head lamp flickers slightly all the time while running but the pick rollers are new and soldered very well..

phillyreading

Could be a bad circuit board, but I have not had a circuit board go bad on me.

I have replaced a circuit board with a bridge rectifier because it didn't act the way I wanted it to. One problem with the bridge rectifier is that you lose reverse unless you add an extra switch and wire the motors different from the switch.

The reproduction line by Williams has some nice motors but can use some electronic or circuit board help. I have one older diesel, a GP-38, that has the wires directly into the circuit board, even the horn's wires are direct to the circuit board.

The Crown Edition engines are the ones I like better from Williams.

Lee F.

Bob Banjany

I have received my new reverse bd I bought from Dallee Electronics.. It is a 12amp bd.. It works great .. and yes this original control bd has all wires soldered directly to the bd..  No more intermittent operation with the replacement.

I would like if anyone knows why or what component on these bds also causes a perfectly fine running loco to start running half speed in the middle of operation.. No heat issue, seems to be a problem with a power amp on a contol bd .. I have a U33c and a semi scale Berkshire that does the same thing.. After running for 5-10 min it starts running slower..??? Turn off or force into reverse and forward again, it is fine for another 5 min..