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Author Topic: Replacement chassis for Train set 4-6-0  (Read 2689 times)

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« on: August 09, 2016, 04:35:22 PM »

Hi - I have a large scale Silverado train set 4-6-0 (V&T) and I'd like to upgrade it with an anniversary replacement chassis.  Can you recommend a product number for a chassis upgrade? - thanks, Bruce
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2016, 06:13:41 PM »

Hi. Ive done the same thing to the Bachamnn "The Prospector" V&T 4-6-0. I recommend this chassis:
Good luck!
Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947

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« Reply #2 on: August 09, 2016, 06:19:05 PM »

Hi Bruce,

There is no exact replacement Anniversary chassis for the 90050 set locomotive, because the locomotive was never made in an anniversary version.  You will have to settle for the next best thing which would be:

You will need to check the colors of the wheel centers and steam chests to see how close they are to your loco equivalent parts.   The pilot(cow catcher) color may be different as well, but it is easy to swap out the pilot from your chassis to the new chassis if desired.

Good luck and have fun.

Loco Bill

Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

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« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2016, 08:12:36 PM »

Thank you Gentlemen - the second one mentioned by Loco Bill seems to be almost an exact color match.

Andrew, can you say how difficult the swap was?  Thanks, Bruce
« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2016, 09:16:53 PM »

Hi. I'll try the best I can to walk you through the procedure to switch out  the chassis. It's not very difficult. The standard 4-6-0 is a relatively easy loco to work on.Start with your locomotive upside down on either a soft towel, or foam cushion. Make sure that it's braced so that it can't fall over. Next, remove the 2 front screws on the cowcatcher and swing it up out of the way. Next, pop off the boiler cap by using a small flat blade screwdriver in one of the two square holes that are located on the top or bottom of the boiler to push gently down on the tab while gently pulling the boiler cap out. Be careful not to break either of the 2 plastic retaining tabs!The smoke unit switch is held to the back of the cap by 2 small screws. Remove them and set them carefully aside or screw them back into the holes from which they came so that you don't lose them!  Next, I remove the 4 screws from the air tanks. Remove both the screws on each side  and set them and the air tanks  aside. Next, remove the 2 screws on the back of the chassis. These are located under the cab. There is a screw that holds the steam chest. Remove it. Now the chassis is almost free. It is still wired to the smoke switch and headlight. You can either cut the headlight wires or unsolder them at the switch. Your choice. I recommend going the unsolder route but be careful not to damage the boiler! Now, you should be able to lift the chassis off of the boiler . Take it off slowly as it should still have the positive-negative power leads to the smoke unit attached at the switch. The leads for the smoke unit can be unscrewed  from the boiler and smoke unit once you have enough clearance. Slowly finish removing both the chassis and still attached front switch from the boiler. Now here's where you have a choice to make. There is going to be a polarity switch attached to 4 wires that will come with your new anniversary chassis. All this switch does is change the polarity(direction) of your locomotive so that it can be run on large scale or standard. You can either buy an Anniversary style boiler cap that has places for 2 switches(polarity and smoke) or ignore the polarity switch and place it inside the locomotive  with the wires wrapped around one of the screw pegs. Here is the direct link for this part, which is currently out of stock:
Hopefully they'll be getting more in soon if you decide that you want to use the polarity switch. I just ordered the grey one yesterday to fit my current project locomotive( I may have bought the last one! Sorry!). Here is a link to a youtube video I made of the nearly completed project:
On a side note, this is the second Standard 4-6-0 that I have switched over to an Anniversary chassis.
You can just ignore the polarity switch (if you want to) and leave it inside the locomotive with the wires wrapped around one of the screw mounts to keep it out of the way. Reassemble the locomotive . Ether way, you're going to have to do a little soldering to attach the positive-negative leads from the chassis to the smoke switch in order to have the headlight and smoke unit work again!
One last thing: the cowcatcher assembly isn't the same on the Anniversary chassis as it is on the Standard Chassis. I switched out the cowcatcher assemblies on my current project(primarlliy due to the fact that one of my 3 Anniversary locomotives needed a new one!) so that it has a standard cowcatcher mounted on the Anniversary chassis. The pilot (metal) rails that hold the cowcatcher are not the same between the Anniversary and the Standard chassis, so you may want to do the switch or buy replacement Anniversary pilot rails here:
They come in your choice of gold or black.
That's pretty much it. I hope that I haven't confused you.I'm sure that there are other guys on here who know more more about these babies then I do so please be sure t oask if I've left anything out. I wish that I could make a video to post to youtube, but I only have my cellphones' camera and you really need both hands free to work on these locos.
Have fun and enjoy yourself!
« Last Edit: August 09, 2016, 10:40:27 PM by RkyGriz » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2016, 12:10:29 PM »

Thanks so much, Andrew!  This seems easy enough for klutz like me -  Cheesy - Bruce
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