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| | |-+  Number 4 switch versus regular switch
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Author Topic: Number 4 switch versus regular switch  (Read 2236 times)
cwex

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« on: May 13, 2017, 09:53:56 PM »

What is the difference between these 2 switches.
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the Bach-man
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« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2017, 10:25:57 PM »

Dear CWEX,
A "regular", or "snap switch", is basically a curved section of track laid over a straight section.
A numbered switch is more realistic. The divergent leg is straight as well, and the number
indicates the length of the divergence. Thus, a number four diverges one unit for each four
units of length. (Think rise and run on a roof).
The higher the number the longer the switch, or turnout.
Have fun!
the Bach-man
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ACY


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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2017, 07:23:08 PM »

The higher the number the better, so #8's would be best for larger locomotives like a 4-8-8-4, 4-6-6-4, or a Bachmann EM-1 2-8-8-4 for instance as well as for 85 and 89 foot cars. #4's would more be suited for 4 axle diesels or an 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 and 40 foot or shorter cars. 18" radius (what you are calling a regular switch) would be about the same category as a #4 but a bit more restrictive.
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cwex

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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2017, 09:51:42 PM »

Thanx.
I have 2 trains, one that has 22 inch radius track and the other one has 18 inch.
In order to have 2 ovals, connect them with #6 turnouts and then can make spurs off of 18 inch for yards etc?
Thank you for your time and patience.
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Len

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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2017, 11:32:16 PM »

Here's a basic double loop using 18" and 22" curves, with #6 crossovers. The crossovers can be shifted left or right to suit whatever spurs or yards you want to include. Keep in mind the crossovers are intended for layouts using DCC, not DC. The spacing between the inner and outter loops will be wider using #6 switches, unless the diverging legs are cut back.



Len
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If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.
cwex

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« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2017, 12:42:19 AM »

Thank you Len.
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