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September 18, 2019, 07:54:55 AM
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Author Topic: Heat in a little Big Hauler  (Read 959 times)
rkc

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« on: March 31, 2019, 12:37:22 PM »

I have a Lil Big Hauler (the one with the tender) for the grandkids which we run on a short oval of track.  For power I use an MRC Tech 2.  The little engine runs fine--for about 10-15 minutes.  By that time when I put my hand on the Tech 2, it is incredibly hot.  Then after a few more minutes, the power supply shuts down until it cools.  However, when I put another engine on the track--in this case a 2-4-2 lynn--no problem.  The Tech 2 runs for as long as we want with no real heat.  So I'm thinking this is something going on with the little hauler.  I've lubed it and checked for any obvious snags.  I've run her on the bachmann stationary rollers--same outcome  I've run her propped up on blocks so the wheels are running free-- the same.  I'm now scratching my head.  Any help or suggestions are appreciated!
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RkyGriz
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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2019, 10:44:12 PM »

Hi. It definitely sounds like there is either a short, or perhaps the power draw from the Lil Big Hauler is too much for your power supply,which I don't think is likely. I would recommend calling Bachmann service tomorrow morning ,and see if you can talk to one of their techs. It's hard to diagnose a problem via remote,but one of the guys there may have nave a better insight into the problem than you'll get here. I have 10 locomotives from 4 different manufacturers(6 of which are Bachmann), and they all run just fine on my 1 amp controller. So your problem is more than likely a short ,or other issue ,with your locomotive.
Hope this was helpful.
Andrew
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Tony Walsham

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« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2019, 11:11:38 PM »

Check out the motor "noise" suppression pcb if the loco has one.
They sometimes fail.
I would rip it out anyway.
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Tony Walsham
Founding member of the battery Mafia.


(Remote Control Systems).
rkc

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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2019, 12:17:55 AM »

Thanks guys for your feedback  will give bachmann a call tomorrow.  In the meantime, as you suggested, I considered possibility of a short.  To eliminate possibility of a problem with the solid state gizmos ( which I freely admit are a mystery to me), I propped the loco on blocks to free the wheels and connected power wires directly to the motor leads.  Same outcome--runs fine and within 10-15 minutes, red overload light on the Tech flashes on and the power cuts off.  Just to eliminate the very unlikely possibility that the problem is the tech2, I dug out an old power pack that came with an old big hauler set years ago.  Same outcome--engine runs fine for 10-15 minutes, the power pack gets really hot and cuts out.  Aaargh! A call to bachmann tomorrow.  In the meantime, any other thoughts would be welcome 
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Joe Zullo

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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2019, 08:10:08 AM »

I think you will find that the advice given by Tony Walsham is going to solve your problem. Bachmann service techs are not going to tell you to cut anything out, but I've seen this happen before.
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Greg Elmassian


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« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2019, 11:28:38 AM »

Agree with Tony / Joe.... also go to Harbor Freight, and get the $5 multimeter (even cheaper on sale) and measure the current drawn, that will tell you right away. You can also use it to check shorted noise caps on that board.

Greg
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rkc

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« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2019, 10:32:46 PM »

Guys, I'm willing to try anything but I need some info before I start cutting.  Inside the loco there is a small board of all sorts of electronic thingies with wires coming from the wheel pickups.  From there the two wires go to the motor. Before going directly to the motor leads, there is another small board on top the motor, the power wires going into this and then to the motor leads themselves. What should I cut? And before I do, I have already run wires directly from the power pack to the actual motor leads. I would think this sidesteps all the electronics (?).  And there is the same result--about ten minutes or so of good running then the power pack overheats and shuts off.  I should mention that at the same time, the motor itself gets very hot.  I'm beginning to wonder if the problem isn't in the motor itself.  Could there be a short somewhere down by the gearbox? I am pretty much forced to fix this on my own--there isn't much likelihood the loco is still under warranty. And before I sign off, my sincere thanks to all of you who have volunteered advice!
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Joe Zullo

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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2019, 10:38:08 PM »

If you do not totally remove that little board on top of the motor it is STILL in the circuit. Remove the board and leave your wires directly to the motor tabs.
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rkc

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« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2019, 03:31:06 PM »

First of all a heartfelt thanks to Rkygriz, Joe, Tony, and Greg for your advice!!!  What a great group.  I took the advice and took out all the electronic boards in the Lil Big Hauler, including the one on top the motor.  I connected the leads from the wheels directly to the motor and the engine runs fine.  No stopping, no overheating of the power pack--both the Tech 2 and the old Bachmann unit.  I have run the engine on both power packs each for almost an hour with no problems. You fellows put your fingers on the problem from the start.  So, one final question and then I will leave everyone to go on to other member's issues--should I reconnect either of the electronic boards?  Even though the engine seems to be running fine, is there any long term problem to the motor running directly from the current?  Thank again so much!
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Tony Walsham

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« Reply #9 on: April 04, 2019, 05:34:52 PM »

Don't re-connect the pcb on the end of the motor.
It is at least one of the components on that pcb that was the cause of the problem.
Bachmann had to comply with the laws of the countries where they sell their wares, so they added motor "noise" suppression directly to the motor.  Mainly to minimise  interference to any nearby TV's.
The problem was that the assemblers often got one of the electrolytic caps in backwards.

I am not sure what the other pcb does.  If the loco works properly without it, eg directional lights, I would leave it off.
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Tony Walsham
Founding member of the battery Mafia.


(Remote Control Systems).
RkyGriz
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« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2019, 05:47:36 PM »

I second Tony. All of my Big Hauler Anniversary 4-6-0's are wired directly from track power to the motor. They work perfectly.The only electronics in them are for the sound and tender lights.You don't need those boards unless you have a locomotive that is set up for DCC and you are planning on upgrading a loco to it.
Have fun!
Andrew
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Kevin Strong


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« Reply #11 on: April 05, 2019, 08:40:41 PM »

...You don't need those boards unless you have a locomotive that is set up for DCC and you are planning on upgrading a loco to it.
You don't even need the boards for that. I was told they are there primarily for EU noise suppression laws. Most electronics installers will tell you just to pull them, as they're not needed and sometimes (as is the case here) get in the way of proper operation.

Glad things got sorted out.

Later,

K
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Greg Elmassian


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« Reply #12 on: April 06, 2019, 09:37:58 PM »

For the motor noise suppression board, you really do not want it for DCC either
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