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Reworking the layout

Started by Terry Toenges, April 06, 2019, 01:26:22 PM

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Terry Toenges

#30
I redid it again. I added a crossover on the bottom to replace the 2 #4's. It's $30 cheaper to buy a crossover than it is for 2 #4's. I had to extend it out to the edge. I can put a small piece of foam on the end so it''s not right on the edge. I also added a couple of turnouts on the upper part so I have more places to park stuff. Plus, I could fit in a crossing when I did that.
Feel like a Mogul.

Terry Toenges

Feel like a Mogul.

dutchbuilder

Aren't those double tracks not to close to each other?
And what about that turning triangle?
That's a short circuit anytime.
You will need a loop detector.

Ton

Terry Toenges

There are a couple places I might have to do some tweaking. That's what is good about the fitter pieces. I can add a little here and there. I might have to extend out a few inches but I can do that by just attaching some foam pieces on the end. I have  Bachmann's automatic reverse loop module to handle the wye.
Feel like a Mogul.

Terry Toenges

I added a few inches on the end and on the bottom. I should be ok with my doorway. I can just add some foam pieces to the end and bottom and a wedge on the bottom left. Adding the extra space gave me room for a switchback.
It occurs to me to wonder if anyone has used the #6 crossovers with On30 and if there is enough clearance. I guess I should find that out before I buy them.

Feel like a Mogul.

dutchbuilder

I have no experience with EZ track but i tried a PECO crossover and had shorts when a locomotive passed over it.
Where the track come together there is not enough isolated space.

Ton

RAM

Well before I say what I was about to say, let me ask where you were having a short.

Len

According to RR-Track the center-to-center spacing of the parallel tracks on the #6 crossover is about 2.4", which should be enough to prevent side swipes. They are designed for use on DCC layouts, so the shorting across gaps problem with DC layout crossovers shouldn't be a problem.

Len
If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.

plas man

only problem for continual running - once the train/loco is reversed on the Y , and back on the main line , there is no way to get back on the Y and turn the train around - except reversing through the switch/point  ?

Terry Toenges

#39
It's starting to look like spaghetti in here. Had to add another 2" in length.This way I can go either direction - If I'm going clockwise, I can change direction and vice versa. I only have one place that I will have to fudge the connection. I tried for hours to get everything to line up right. The second reverse loop isn't colored because of the break in the connection where I have to fudge it. It's right in the middle where the track passes through the innermost loop. I already have a #4 and a #5 DCC turnout to use for the spurs so I don't have to buy those.



Feel like a Mogul.

dutchbuilder

Terry, you know the difference between an European style layout and an American style layout?
When there is space left on an European layout it will be filled with track.
When there is track on an American layout and you wonder what it is doing there, you remove it.


Ton

jward

Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

Terry Toenges

#42
In the interest of globality, I added another spur to keep you all happy.  ;D I think I have everything covered now - wye, reverse loop, switchback, sort of a passing siding with the crossovers, and spurs.  Sorry. No room for a turntable. Mr. Porter will get quite a workout.



Feel like a Mogul.

bbmiroku

Actually, Terry...
There may be just enough room for a turntable with a little fudge thrown in there. But it would come at the loss of functionality (storage space) of at least one spur.

Idea 1.
Give that switchback on the left side a reason to be there.  If the grade starts at 0" as the inner track exits the tunnel and takes the switchtrack left.  Get rid of the first reverse-switch.  As you reach the switchback, you'll want the height at at least 2", maybe 2 1/8".  Get rid of the next switchtrack, keeping the middle leg of the three originals.  As you get to 4" or 4 1/2", tack on the turntable.  You may do better with an Atlas turntable, since it's flat.  And now you have your turntable right there next to your control panel, so you can use the crank handle instead of wiring it to a motor.  Loss of two storage tracks.

Idea 2.
Make that newest short spur track on the lower right into a curve of minimum-radius track (porters and smaller engines can handle it) and curve it further back towards the crossings.  Then put on the turntable in the middle of the loop.  Loss of one storage/industrial track.

Terry Toenges

#44
I see what you are saying on number 1. That would be extremely steep to try to get it that high. I can already get the locos to go in either direction with the wye and the reverse loop. The control panel takes up that whole corner (13" X 13 1/2"). I have two 6 input power boxes on it that are about a foot square. The bottom of the foam where the panel is sits about 6" above the ground. I have two pieces of 2" foam for the base upon which the power boxes sit. The two ends of the track will be under the overhang of it. I could shorten those so they weren't under it. With a 4% grade, you only have 1 1/2" where the switchback turnout forks. At the very most, you could maybe get up to 3". The approach track to the turntable would be on a grade. I would want a loco length of level for approach track.
I had actually thought about doing #2.
The foam with the upper track is gone and it is all ground level except for the control panel.


Feel like a Mogul.