New layouy what code track?

[dragonbusa]

Getting ready to start my new layout and I would like some input on track code. My current layout is all EZ track, Its in the man cave no plans to take it down, I have way to much time and money in it. The new one is going in a 20x12 barn that will have heat and AC. It will be dedicated to the train lay out, A train barn if you will. So what and why are the reasons to use the different codes of track? I will be laying all flex track.  Should be several hundred feet of track and this will be a DCC setup. I am going with the NCE power cab system. Thanks for any input.

[Joe323]

Code 83 track is considered to be more prototypical looking that code 100 for mainline use.  Lower profile track like would be used in spurs sidings etc where slower speed are the norm and track not as well maintained.

[jward]

I handlay my own track, with mostly code 83 and some code 70. I have found that any locomotives or rolling stock with RP25 wheelsets will work well on Code 83. Older locomotives and cars, particularly the ones from lower end brands of the 1960-1990 era, may have trouble with code 83 because of their deep "pizza cutter" whee; flanges. It is relatively simple to change out the wheelsets on the cars for newer ones that conform to RP25. But on older locomotives, such as those from AHM, replacement may not be possible. If you intend on running these locomotives, use Code 100.

From my experience there are a couple of things that will greatly cut down on derailments no matter what code your track is. RP25 wheelsets are at the top of the list, along with body mounted couplers and proper weighting of your rolling stock.

[Trainman203]

Rail Code is all about appearance.  The lower the code, the more realistic the track.  Code 100 is grossly oversized for any prototype except for somewhere on the Pennsy I heard, but when first introduced decades ago it was the bee's knees.  Code 55 rail is available and at one time code 40 was.  Ultra realistic track for branchlines and short lines but nearly all wheel flanges were too big and would bottom out.  Plus you had to make your own switches and crossings.  I long for that rickety appearance but way too much work.

[Len]

I modified some older 'pizza cutter' flange steamers to run on Code 83 track by putting them in a Ribbonrail cradle, applying power to get the wheels spinning, and gentle application of a cheap sharpening stone to the flanges. By putting the stone on all drivers at the same time, I was able to get consistent flange sizes. The lead and trailing trucks were done with a fine stone in a Dremel tool.

Len

[graywolf]

I used all Micro Engineering Code 83 flex track and found it easy to shape the curves. There is a tool set that Micro Mark sells which contain a ballast positioner and various black plastic blocks to help install the track. One of the blocks has 2 grooves which fit the track and if you glue on a handle you can use it to bend the track to the curvature of the layout. You put the block on the track and sort of iron it into shape by sliding it along the track as you put sideway pressure on it to conform to the radius you want. I would also suggest making some masonite or plywood radii forms to layout your curves on the baseboard. Another suggestion solder together the amount of flex track pieces you need to form the completed curve before you start bending it. Straight runs can be soldered after positioning.

[dragonbusa]

Thanks for the input guys, I think I'm going with code 100 flex all the way. I have a ton of older rolling stock from many dif manufactures. 

[Trainman203]

That's a wise choice for someone with older stuff.  You should consider slowly changing over your rolling stock wheels to metal RP 25 anyway.  You'll get better operation and some say the track will stay cleaner.  Engines though, grinding down the flanges, man, I'm not brave enough for that.

If you paint code 100 track the appearance improves 1000%.  I did it. A spray can of flat dark reddish brown works wonders.  Just protect where rail joiners will go and touch up with a brush after the track is down. Clean the rail head and you're ready to go.  Later on you can touch up individual ties if you want.