Please read the Forum Code of Conduct   >>Click Here <<

Main Menu

Williams reverse board

Started by Winnipeg O gauge guy, January 06, 2020, 03:53:48 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Winnipeg O gauge guy

I have a Williams GG1 that I bought way back in 1981. They didn't have electronic reverse units way back then, so I had an E-unit hooked up, connected to a bridge rectifier. I'd like to buy a Williams reverse board with lockout (item 00249) for this engine. Will this reverse board work on a Williams engine this old? Will I still need a bridge rectifier?


Hi Winnipeg O gauge guy,

                     671 here.

I will say yes; the new and older reverser boards will work. They both have the ability to control one or two "CAN" motors. The CAN motors are D/C current powered. The board has built into the circuitry rectifiers and relays.
The board  will rectify the A/C current to an usable synthetic D/C current that the CAN motors will accept as D/C current.

Trainland has that unit with lockout switch for $59.99.

I would strongly suggest that you look into wiring the motors in series rather than in a parallel format. In series the GG1 will travel at a slower more constant speed than if you wire the motors in parallel. The loco will not be affected as much by dirty track and other things that will cause voltage deviation.

You can check posts on this site or google on how to series wire Williams locomotives. There are some very knowledgeable guys and gals on this site that can help you with that simple wiring adaptation. I think you will be amazed at the better performance of your loco.          Glad to help...

                                          Keep 'em smok'n

Winnipeg O gauge guy

Thanks, 671! I'll look into that unit at train world. That's $20 less than list price, which would pay for shipping.
I noticed on the Bachmann Williams parts page (I felt like a kid in a candy store there) they also a reversing unit for older Williams locomotives at a lower price.
I have no idea what the difference is between wiring the motors in series rather than parallel, but I'll look into it.

Thanks again!