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Broken tender pin

Started by BIG BEAR, December 19, 2007, 09:53:58 AM

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BIG BEAR


     Hey All,
    I have a On30 mogul running around my christmas tree this year. Now just the engine, as I have broken off the link pin on the Tender.
    Does anyone have a good fix for this? As I don't think model glue or others would hold up to the strain of pulling a few cars around.
     I'm sure others have done this , if you would please let me kwow how you handled it.

        Thanks,
                Barry

Barry,

...all the Live long day... If she'd let me.

SteamGene

Barry,
Do you have some pieces of round brass or copper wire that is about the same thickness as the pin?  If so, I'd cut the rest of the pin flush with the tender body, sand as necessary, then drill a hole of the correct diameter and fasten the new metal pin to the tender using CA.  Plastic tubing or stock might do as well.
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

Dusten Barefoot

Or, fi you still have the pin, super glue it back in the place that it broke. I have done this to my mogul and it still holds.
Rock On & Live Strong
Dusten Blake Barefoot
I know I pester the hell out of everone over a 4-6-0
E.T.&.W.N.C, TWEETSIE, LINVILLE.
www.tweetsierailroad.com
http://www.johnsonsdepot.com/crumley/tour1.htm
#12 and 10-Wheelers
Black River & Southern
Rock On & Live Strong
Dusten

GN.2-6-8-0

Quote from: SteamGene on December 19, 2007, 12:35:17 PM
Barry,
Do you have some pieces of round brass or copper wire that is about the same thickness as the pin?  If so, I'd cut the rest of the pin flush with the tender body, sand as necessary, then drill a hole of the correct diameter and fasten the new metal pin to the tender using CA.  Plastic tubing or stock might do as well.
Gene
in the case of small brass tubing ,find a small thin brass washer and solder it leaving 1/4'' to be inserted into the tender body.This will give a great deal more support.
Rocky Lives

Woody Elmore

Try the old HO Brass remedy - use a long 2-56 screw with a nut on it. You may have to drill a hole for the screw. The nut goes on under the draw bar and helps keep the engine and tender coupled. If you want you can also use a piece of brass tubing around the screw - it looks a little nicer.

BIG BEAR

   
      Thanks all for the help!
    I took ideas from these. I used a galvanized nail, ground the point off,(too proper length), drilled a hole in the tender, glued it in place, & finally painted it flat black. I need to test run later today.
    The first nail I used, I cut that sucker twice & it was still too short.

         Barry
 
Barry,

...all the Live long day... If she'd let me.