Old rolling stock

[PHENICUS]

I have a bunnch of rolling stock from the mid 70's to mid 80's. I updated them with MKII couplers but they all seem to run a bit low and get caught up on all of the switches on the layout. They also don't line up that well with my newer rolling stock.

I dont know if I just need to just bend the decoupling wire up a bit to clear the switches? The other thing I was looking at is the old plastic wheels from my older stock compared to the metal ones that are on the newer stock. I didn't want to remove them from my new stuff to compare them. I am wondering if the metal wheels have a larger diamiter than the old plastic ones?

If anyone has any info or suggestions it would be greatly apreciated.

[TonyD]

You need an NMRA guage. It will tell you if the wheels are off, and if the couplers need adjusting, yes, the steel 'air hose' probably needs to be bent, kadee has a nice guage that snaps on the track, those are nice to have if you are doing lots of cars.

[rogertra]

By "run a bit low and get caught up on all of the switches " dp you mean the couplers get caught up?

I'm not sure what you mean by "MkII" couplers as I use Kadees but if your couplers catch trackwork it may mean that the body is riding too low on the trucks and will need a washer or two to raise the body a little.

TonyD's advice about buying a an NMRA gauge and a Kadee coupler height gauge is a good start.

If you explain more then we can possibly give some advice.

[r.cprmier]

Tony's and Roger's advice is well-founded.  Get the NMRA gauge and the Kadee gauge.  I will add also to get the kadee coupler plier;  This way, everything in your collection can in one way or another, be standardized. 
I will say "out of turn", that what will tend to trip a car at a turnout is a knuckle coupler with the "hose" to low at the bottom.  Here is where those pliers come in handy because their almost sole purpose is to put a bend in a piece of metal.  Find the proper diameter, line everything up, and just give a gentle squeeze. enough so that you "feel" the metal give a bit, then gauge it with your nice new kadee coupler gauge.  Follow instructions included wit heach tool, and you can't go wrong.

Good Luck.

Rich 

[hotrainlover]

I suggest you also put weight in all cars.  I have found that my cars that are too "light" will cause all the other cars behind them to pull off the track.

[PHENICUS]

Great. I will add those tools to my list.

I also liked the weight pointer too. The older cars are very light compared to most of the new stuff that I have.

[robin]

I'd like to add some numbers to the weight suggestion.  If I recall correctly, the NMRA standards call for each car to weight 1 oz plus  1/2 oz for each inch of length.  Bear in mind you'll need to do this for everything in your train because a light car at the front will "shoestring" off the track on a curve.  Lots of folks build a test board with about 18 inches of track and a Kadee coupler height guage at each end.  Add ruler markings to the board and you're set.  Keeping all you couplers at exactly the same height will prevent lots of unwanted uncouples. Most of us use a small postal scale for weight checking.

Robin

[Yampa Bob]

It's also important to keep the vertical "slop" of couplers to a minimum.  Even if the couplers are all matched in height, excessive vertical movement can cause one coupler to "cam", or ride over the other in compression or extension.

Kadee makes two thicknesses of fibre washers to shim coupler in the box, .010" and .015".

Bob