Bachmann EZ-Command DCC System and Atlas DCC Engines

[BradKT]

I have 3 Atlas DCC engines with factory-installed DCC decoders (I double-checked that both before and after I bought them) and when I put them on the track, they only operated on "0" and not "3".  I don't seem to be able to reprogram them to work on any other number.  In other words, they are operating as DC engines right now.  I want to be able to program to operate on different number codes other than the analogue code ("0").  Is that possible with Atlas DCC engines?

Any suggestions?

[Yampa Bob]

Brad

I have no experience with Atlas locomotives, only Bachmann, MRC and Roundhouse. All these worked on DC and on DCC default address 3.

Are you absolutely sure they are DCC equipped?  From the symptoms it sounds as though they are only DCC ready.  If so, they would operate on DC and on address "0" on your DCC controller exactly as you described. If that's the case, don't let the loco stand idle on DCC power or it may overheat.

I don't know for sure, but someone mentioned that some DCC locos, notably Athearn and possibly Atlas, required either installing or removing a jumper for compatible operation.  The problem is, the factories don't include any instructions with their locomotives, usually just a diagram and warranty notice.

We recently bought a $39 coffee maker, it came with a full pictorial instruction book, in 3 languages no less.  Can't we expect the same for a $100 or more locomotive?

The only way to know for sure if the decoder is in fact installed is to remove the tender shell.  Have you done that?

Sorry I'm not much help, but the symptoms are a bit puzzling.  I've never had a problem such as those being posted in the forum, just take them out of the box and run them.  Guess I've been lucky so far. 

I run all my DCC locos on a DC powered track for the breakin period.  I like to have them "limbered up" before putting them on DCC power.  Decoders run a bit warm anyway, don't want to subject them to excess heat caused by binding or roughness in the mechanism.

Also, I never run a DC loco on DCC even though the EZC manual says it will work on "0".

Hopefully someone familiar with Atlas locos will comment on this.

Bob

[BradKT]

The boxes that they came say that they are DCC decoder-equipped and that the decoder has been factory installed.  I'll take off the shells to double check, but I am sure that they are DCC-decoder equipped and not just DCC ready.

[Yampa Bob]

I thought I was the only one still awake at this hour.

I'm not questioning your judgment, just desperate for answers.    I'm sure this is very frustrating to you.

[pdlethbridge]

could it be this? from here http://www.atlasrr.com/downloads.htm
Locomotive does not move when DCC system is set to the address in CV1, even though this address can be read from CV1.
You have entered the short address (CV1), but the decoder is set to use the long address, i.e., bit 5 of CV29 has been set. Use the long address or else clear bit 5 of CV 29.

[BradKT]

I'n not sure what you mean by "clear bit 5 of CV 29'....How?

[engineerkyle]

If it is a decoder like my Altas', there is a jumper that needs to be moved on the circuit board itself. Otherwise, IIRC, it will only operate in DC mode.

The EZ commander has a pretty simple method for setting the loco's address. It's explained in the documentation and on the accomp. DVD.

try a google search on 4 function decoder jumper
and see if you get anywhere... keep us posted.

EK

[engineerkyle]

Also,

Once you get it in DCC mode, you should be able to reset it to the factory settings by changing CV8 to 33? better look that one up before you go modifying CV's... you will not be able to do it with the EZ commander anyway, as it is most basic... if it turns out you have to reset the decoder to the factory settings, you'll need to take it to a friends layout or LHS thta has a more advanced system... like Lenz or NCE

Kyle

[Yampa Bob]

Remember Brad has an EZ Command, which will not change CVs. 

Doesn't Atlas have something about the jumper on their web site?  It seems logical to me that if removing a jumper is required, there would have been a note to that effect in the box. 

I can understand Brad's frustration, he must be a lot more patient than I am.

[pdlethbridge]

maybe this is what he needs:

[Yampa Bob]

I just got off the phone, talked to Atlas tech support.

First, I mentioned "tender" in my previous post, that was just assuming facts from the other thread.  According to tech support, Atlas does not make a Steam loco in HO scale, I was not aware of that.   So apparently Brad has Atlas diesel model locomotives.

Second, all Atlas DCC locos come with default address of the last two digits of the road number.  According to the Bachmann manual, the address can be changed by using the instructions at the bottom of page 3, the last paragraph. 

Third, some locos are shipped with instructions and diagrams, some are not.  It is an overseas problem, and Atlas has no control over it.

According to the diagram that Paul posted, all DCC locos come from the factory with the switch (not a jumper) set to DCC mode.  Tech support said that was wrong, they come set for analog DC.  Try the switch in each direction.

[BradKT]

Guys. I wouldn't have figured this out in a million years.  Thank for checking this one out for me.  This is some valuable information.  I am going to check this out to see if there is such a switch on the engine and I'll post later and let you know how this turned out.

Again...thank you!

[BradKT]

I'm back.  SUCCESS!!!  They are now operating in DCC mode and were easily programmable using the EZ Command System.  Engineerkyle was right on the money!

For the record, I had 2 DR&G Atlas Master HK-15/16's (#150 and 151) and a Union Pacific diesel.

My mistake was that I had thought that a DCC engine would come from the factory already set to operate in the DCC mode.  My assumption was incorrect, so all of you out there who buy Atlas DCC engines need to take note of this fact.  The ones that come with the 4 function decoders (at least) are all set to run in the DC mode only AND THERE IS A SPECIAL SET OF DIRECTIONS THAT SHOWS HOW SIMPLE IT IS TO MAKE THE CHANGE!

What you have to do is to remove the engine shell, find the decoder and re-seat the jumper plug on the DCC decoder.  It's very simple (I like that part).  In order to get a mental picture of this, imagine 6 pinholes arrayed in 2 horizontal rows of 3 pinholes each.  The jumper plug cover only inserts into 4 pinholes...2 in each row.  In the DC mode (as it comes from the factory), the jumper plug is plugged into the 4 rear holes.  YOU HAVE PULL OUT THE JUMPER PLUG AND REINSERT IT SO THAT THE JUMPER PLUG INSERTS INTO THE 4 FRONT HOLES!

That's all there is to it.  It's very simple and the instructions include a diagram that shows the before and after.

It just never dawned on me that I would have to take this step but the replies to my post triggered the thought that I might have to manually make the change in the decoder's configuration from DC to DCC.  It wasn't a switch...it was just a matter of re-seating the jumper plug.

Thank you all.   This episode really shows how valuable this discussion board is.

[Yampa Bob]

Brad, I should be thanking you.  After all, if you hadn't presented this problem, I would not have learned. 

We should all be thankful that some factories have poor quality control, don't include instructions and diagrams, and generally could care less about service after the sale.  Otherwise we would have no need for a forum, and no reason to stay up all night trying to solve problems and making new friends. 

If I buy a DCC locomotive, I would expect it to come ready to run on DCC. Atlas has a toll free number, I used it to express my thoughts on this issue. 

Now about that last Bachmann locomotive?     Keep us posted.

[BradKT]

Re: that last Bachmann engine...will do.  I'll let you know.  Right now, that sucker is just dead...it won't respond at all.  I won't get to that one until tomorrow (if not, the day after), but I will post again and let you know. 

Right now I'm on working another small project...making a 3' x 1' x 32" table for my transformers and switches so they won't be physically on the layout table, which is 36" high.

Once again, thanks!