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HO scale track question

Started by engine275, August 11, 2008, 10:47:52 PM

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engine275

I was wondering if you can change a switch into an insulated one, could you also tell me the most quickest and cheapest way to convert it. Thanks for your help!
owner of the Indian Valley Railroad

Yampa Bob

By "switch" are you referring to a "turnout" or the "frog" or what exactly?

Please give us more detailed information about what you are trying to accomplish. I think I know what you are asking, but need to be certain. 
I know what I wrote, I don't need a quote
Rule Number One: It's Our Railroad.  Rule Number Two: Refer to Rule Number One.

Dr EMD

Electro-Motive Historical Research
(Never employed by EMD at any time)


jayl1

If this is a turnout, the doctor is correct with the cheapest way to isolate a rail.  Atlas also makes plastic rail joiners that can be used.  There is a small piece of plastic rising from the joiner to stop the flow of current.  A pack of 24 of them retails for $1.35 & should be available at any decent hobby shop.  If you decide to cut the rails, be careful  - especially if using a Dremel tool & wear eye protection.  Atlas also makes a nice, inexpensive hand saw - $3.25 retail.

engine275

yes this a turnout and the track i'm using is bachman E-Z track.
owner of the Indian Valley Railroad

Yampa Bob

#5
Engine275,
The problem is, you know what you are trying to accomplish, we do not.  So far we only know that you have an EZ track turnout, but is it the standard remote with a plastic frog or a #5 with power routing?

It's hard for us to give an answer if we have to ask questions.  Can you please elaborate on what you are trying to accomplish.  "Insulate" what?  The switch, the frog, the rails, etc and for what purpose?

The term "isolate" usually means to separate a section of track electrically from the other sections, such as an isolated siding. Or to "isolate" a motor for the intervention of a decoder. 

The term "insulate" generally means to prevent shorts. For turnout frogs, the term is usually "insulate".   
I know what I wrote, I don't need a quote
Rule Number One: It's Our Railroad.  Rule Number Two: Refer to Rule Number One.

engine275

the turnout has a remote control box to change tracks and it has a plastic frog. what I would like to do is turn it into an isolated siding so that the two trains on the siding and main line will not derail each other.
owner of the Indian Valley Railroad

SteamGene

What you want to do then is to use the aformentioned insulated plastic rail joiners to make the siding a separate block.  Then you run wire(s) to it to an electrical switch to allow you to turn the power off or on.  Then run wires from the switch to your power pack. 
With power on you run your locomotive and train onto the siding, throw the turnout, turn the switch to off and your other train will run past it. 
If you have a double ended siding - like a passing siding, you will have to isolate the siding from the other turnout, too. 
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

Yampa Bob

#8
Adding to Gene's comments, you will need a "double pole single throw" switch to control the  power to both rails of the siding.

In the event you are not familiar with this type of switch, there are 2 terminals in the center,and 2 terminals near the end of the switch.  By convention, always connect the leads from the power pack or power buss to the center terminals.  When connecting wires from the end terminals to the track, you must assure proper polarity.  It helps to have a voltmeter to check this.  If wired wrong, nothing may happen when you first turn the switch on, but when the loco wheels contact both main and siding rails, there will be a dead short.  This is one way motors and sensitive decoders get destroyed. If it sounds like I'm trying to frighten you, you're absolutely correct.

I continue to urge all modelers to buy a digital volt-ohm-meter and learn how to use it.  Even a small analog type, with a scale and needle is better than nothing, these meters can be bought for about $10.  I bought 3 digital types from NAPA auto parts store for only $7.00 each.  There are times when you need to monitor both voltage and current simultaneously.

Good luck
I know what I wrote, I don't need a quote
Rule Number One: It's Our Railroad.  Rule Number Two: Refer to Rule Number One.

pdlethbridge

And if you have power to the tracks, check them with a $ .10 light bulb

Jim Banner

I assume engineer275 is using dc as there is normally no reason for such a siding with DCC.  I further assume it is a stub siding or single ended siding, not a passing siding with a turnout at each end.  With dc, he can interrupt just one rail on his siding using one insulated rail joiner or one air gap and bypass the insulated rail joiner or gap with a single pole single throw toggle switch when he wants the siding to be live.

Having to choose between either the siding or the main line being live may not go along with his vision of running his railway.  If he would to be able to shut off a piece of his main line, his best bet would be to isolate that section by cutting a gap at each end of the section, making sure both gaps were in the same rail.  Then a single pole single throw switch would be all that is required to isolate that section.  Incidentally, the idea of isolating only one rail is the basis of common rail wiring.

Two suggestions for keeping the price down and reliability up - one is to skip the insulated joiners and use gaps, but be sure to insert a bit of plastic or epoxy into the gap to keep the two cut ends from creeping together.  Use a file or a sharp knife to trim the plastic or epoxy even with the tops and inside edges of the rails.

The other suggestion is to use regular light switches.  New ones can be bought cheaply and used ones can often be had for the asking.
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.