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Author Topic: Woodland Scenics water  (Read 3205 times)
SteamGene

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« on: December 12, 2008, 07:33:55 PM »

I've started construction of Mickie's Run which has two waterfalls.  Has anybody used either of the Woodland Scenics water products - the one that is already liquid or the one one must heat?  I have both.  Which should I use for the waterfalls - Which are rather large.
Gene
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Chief Brass Hat
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Yampa Bob

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« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2008, 07:48:46 PM »

I have the manuals and DVDs, will look it up later if you don't get an answer.
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Rule Number One: It's Our Railroad.  Rule Number Two: Refer to Rule Number One.
TCWORLD


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« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2008, 08:08:17 PM »

The one that you have to melt is not good for waterfalls, its best for small lakes and ponds. Hope this helps
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Tom

-~The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time~-
WoundedBear
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« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2008, 08:09:25 PM »

Both products will work for the "base" water, Gene......but for the "white-water" look of rapids or a waterfall, you need to use their Water Effects product over top.

You would probably have more luck with the "heat and use" type for the vertical base, as it hardens quicker than the liquid, and by monitoring the heat, you can control it's viscosity.

Once you have your vertical base complete, spread some of the Water Effects on a piece of waxed paper. Spread out beads a little longer than your waterfall is tall. (the stuff shrinks a tad)

Use a toothpick or a fine brush and drag in line with the beads. This will striate the Water Effects and give the white look. Once you have it coaxed into shape, let it set up overnight.

Pull up one corner from the waxed paper and slowly peel the waterfall up. You can use Water Effects for an adhesive to hold it in place, or plain white glue. Brush a little at each end, then drape your waterfall over the prepared base.

Let it settle into place then, smooth out and blend in any rough edges and scenic the banks as normal.

Clear as mud? Hope this helps. It's a trial and error kind of learning curve.

Sid

Sid
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SteamGene

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« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2008, 08:34:36 PM »

I've got the Water Effects.  I'm mostly concerned with the base water, if you will.  Thanks for the input so far.
Gene
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Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"
Tim

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« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2008, 12:15:22 AM »

Gene

You might like this method of making waterfalls.

http://www.thewhistlepost.com/forums/tips-tricks-techniques/7916-waterfall-tutorial.html

Tim Anders
Souderton, PA
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Yampa Bob

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« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2008, 12:16:47 AM »

The manual says to use Realistic Water for the pool, pour no more than 1/8" deep at a time.

For the waterfall, the book describes it exactly as Sid mentioned.

You can download the specific .pdf file for all Woodland Scenics products from their web site.
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Rule Number One: It's Our Railroad.  Rule Number Two: Refer to Rule Number One.
SteamGene

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« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2008, 05:36:19 PM »

Bob,
I've got the instructions for the Realistic Water, as well as the "You can make a waterfall" WS kit.  (Although I'm sure there is not enough in the kit for what I'm doing.)  I have more Realistic Water and the Special Effects, but I also have two bags of the heat and pour.  So my question is what would be best for the base. 
Sid seems to think that the heat and pour is best for the falls themselves, which makes sense.  I haven't read the instructions for it, since they are inside the bag. 
I'll have two streams - the South River, which is flat and in a valley, and Mickie's Run, which goes over a two tier waterfall. 
Gene
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TCWORLD


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« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2008, 07:38:59 PM »

Use the heat and pour for the base.
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Tom

-~The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time~-
Yampa Bob

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« Reply #9 on: December 13, 2008, 08:14:53 PM »

By "base water" I assumed you meant the "pool" at the bottom of the falls. Guess not.  Cheesy
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Rule Number One: It's Our Railroad.  Rule Number Two: Refer to Rule Number One.
grumpy

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« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2008, 01:28:01 AM »

If you decide to use the heat and pour I recommend you do not use your wifes oven. It leaves a pretty strong odour in the oven . Buy a used toaster oven for this purpose only.
Don Tongue
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hindmarch
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« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2008, 07:51:53 AM »

HI,I have used clear silicone for waterfalls and it works quite well also for ponds,as you know i am always looking for ways to save money,the money is not a problem im not a skinflint but i try to find other ways instead of travelling many KM to a hobby shop and paying their inflated prices.Regards Bryan
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SteamGene

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« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2008, 02:28:59 PM »

I'm wondering if "Water Effects" isn't the same thing as "Clear Seal."  The instructions for that and WS instructions for Water Effects is about 99% identical. 
Gene
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Chief Brass Hat
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"Only coal fired steam locomotives"
WoundedBear
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« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2008, 02:34:01 PM »

It probably is Gene.....and half the cost too, I bet.

Give it a try. That's what I like about railroad modelling....anything might work. Never hurts to think outside the box.

Sid

Just found the website......

http://www.amesresearch.com/clearseal.htm

Note where they say "may foam if brushed". Sounds like the stuff. You should be able to coax that into shape. Are you going to post any "in-progress" shots? Or do we have to wait to see the finished product?

Sid
« Last Edit: December 14, 2008, 02:39:57 PM by WoundedBear » Logged

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« Reply #14 on: December 14, 2008, 04:45:45 PM »

Woodland Scenics has informational videos on their websites. They have one that can help you sculp a water fall using their product:

http://www.woodlandscenics.com/FlashVideos/MakeWaterFall.html

Josh
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- Joshua Bauer
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