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Author Topic: HO Scale loop problem  (Read 6876 times)
Joe Satnik


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« Reply #15 on: December 18, 2008, 01:29:16 AM »

What is the name (make, model and item #) of your set?  What is the name on the controller?  Did the controller come with the set?

The most important parts of the reverse loop are the 4 insulated rail joiners between the loop and the 2 routes of the turnout. 

"The Complete Atlas Wiring Book" (book #12 - available at hobby shops) goes through the wiring of a reverse loop.  It's a good book, though you don't always need the fancy and expensive Atlas electrical switches that are shown.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik
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If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.
treno


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« Reply #16 on: December 21, 2008, 06:55:37 PM »

I have the Bachmann Digital Commander set with the EZ Command Control Center.  I'll try to upload a copy of the layout tomorrow.  Would the insulated gap track work instead of the auto-reversing track???
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Joe Satnik


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« Reply #17 on: December 22, 2008, 01:03:25 AM »

Dear Treno,

The auto reversing track will not help you in this case.

The insulated gap track will work if both rails are gapped.   

You will need another gap track piece for a total of 4 gaps per loop.  The gaps should be as close to the turnout as possible.

Hope this helps.

Joe Satnik
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If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.
treno


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« Reply #18 on: December 22, 2008, 04:28:33 PM »

Will I need a separate Command unit to power the loop??
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BIG BEAR

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« Reply #19 on: December 23, 2008, 02:18:49 PM »


   Treno,
   Just for clarification, the auto reversing track is only extra curves & lengths for the trolley sets.
   The auto reverser is for reversing the flow of electicity at that specific point each & every time the motive power passes it.
   I hope this helps & I hope this explains to alot of others who don't use trolleys or reversers just don't know the specific applications.
   Don't forget, "the only stupid question, is the one that isn't asked" as several people can learn from another's quetions.

           Barry

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Barry,

...all the Live long day... If she'd let me.
treno


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« Reply #20 on: December 23, 2008, 05:24:38 PM »

To recap, all I need is a couple of insulated gapped pieces of track near the turn-outs and no additional transformer power unit?
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Joe Satnik


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« Reply #21 on: December 23, 2008, 10:01:19 PM »

Treno,

Did you get my e-mail reply?

Joe
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If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.
treno


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« Reply #22 on: December 26, 2008, 02:46:38 PM »

Sorry Joe, I did not.  I'm at palmisanom@sbcglobal.net
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Joe Satnik


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« Reply #23 on: December 27, 2008, 12:17:30 PM »

I replied to your e-mail, the same address shown above.

Check your spam filter? 

Joe
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If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.
Joe Satnik


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« Reply #24 on: December 27, 2008, 10:39:51 PM »

Mike,

I just re-sent your e-mail.  Hopefully it will get through.  Let me know.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 
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If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.
treno


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« Reply #25 on: December 29, 2008, 03:49:40 PM »

Did not get it.  Adjusted my spam filter.  Try again.
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Joe Satnik


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« Reply #26 on: December 29, 2008, 05:30:49 PM »

Just sent it again. 

If this fails I will just post it to the board here. 

Joe
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If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.
Cassshay10


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« Reply #27 on: January 03, 2009, 07:15:33 PM »

Mabye you should check and see if its in a bind somewhere. I have a 7x4 and had the same problem. One side was 54 in of straight trackage and the other was 57. Afterwards, I felt like an idiot.
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pdlethbridge
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« Reply #28 on: January 03, 2009, 10:05:17 PM »

thir is how a reverse loop should be wired and insulated. ( From Jim Banner's site )

http://www.members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/loop/loop1.gif
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