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How I nearly destroyed an engine

Started by jonathan, June 05, 2009, 08:41:32 AM

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JNXT 7707

Don't feel bad - I did the same thing less then a year ago working on an Athearn FP45. As you now know, the metal used in these frames is not conducive to bending without breaking.
However I did perform a fix similar to what you described, using CA adhesive and some styrene reinforcement over the break. Other than looking a bit inelegant with the shell off, it is plenty strong enough to pull a passenger train with no more problems (I wouldn't doubt if it's probably stronger then it was originally).
Jerry

Modeling the JNXT RR from its headquarters in Buzzardly, Texas.
Future home of the National C-Liner Museum.

jbrock27

Last night, as I have done in the past, I took the frame of a GP38-2, put the front end where the coupler mounts in a workbench vise and tightened up the vise on the coupler mount.  (Picture the frame sticking up in the air with the front end in the vise),  Then, grabbing the frame as close to the vise as possible, I bent it (gently) in the direction I wanted to take out some "warp" and walla, fixed.   It is the geep or SD 45 frames that seem to have more of these warped issues than F7 frames that I have come across.
Keep Calm and Carry On

ALCO1000

Been there too,had a good clean brake on mine, cleaned with alcohol, used some super glue to mend the break under some pressure by holding it for a good 5 minutes not moving a muscle and it held ever since ,later i cleaned off some of the paint and used a piece of the metal contact strip for the motor to truck contact bent in a vise at a 90 degree angle and glued it in with super glue to to the back side to reinforce and its good as new ! Maybe I CAN SAY I TRIED HEATING ANOTHER ON THE STOVE TO STRAIGHTEN IT OUT AND IT MELTED LIKE SOLDER,,  I GUESS THAT IS WHAT AN EXPERIENCED MODEL RAILROADER MEANS,GOOD LUCK!

ebtnut

Good to run into Jonathon at Timonium last weekend and see his Connie-powered work train and EM-1-powered endless wagon-top box car train on the club's modular layout.  I scored a sealed-in-the-box B&O Connie for $50 on someone's table, which I plan to run at the club in McKeesport. 

GN.2-6-8-0

#19
Years ago I had bought a unpainted PFM Great Northern Class Q12-10-2.... after learning my way around an air brush got up the nerve to try my hand at a Glacier Park paint scheme on
this engine and have to say at least to my eyes it turned out beautifully.
matter of fact thought it looked so great i left it on a short spur on. the railroad "just so I could admire my work. Oh' did I mention this spur was on the front edge of the layout? Yep need  say no more.
thank God I had carpeted the floor.......we all do stupid things in our lives some are just luckier than others.....
Rocky Lives

jonathan

Likewise, good to see you at Timonium, ebtnut!  Scored a little brass and some craftsman kits this time.

Regards,

Jonathan

lvrr325

I tend to think if I had to straighten one of these frames I'd put a weight on it and maybe heat it up some. 

But then if I busted the coupler ear off I think I'd just convert it to shell mounted couplers, like so many engines come now.  Unless I planned to pull 100-car trains with it, that should be fine.

electrical whiz kid

Hey Jonathan; maybe you can braze it...
Rich C.