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How I nearly destroyed an engine

Started by jonathan, June 05, 2009, 08:41:32 AM

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jonathan

I was in the middle of routine inspection and maintenance of my engines when I discovered one of my Athearn GP40s had a coupler out of alignment (sitting too high).  After removing the shell, I observed that the front portion of the frame, which holds the pilot draft gear box, was bent slightly upwards, causing the coupler to point up at an angle. Thus, it could potentially not couple/uncouple correctly. 

Here's where my stupid meter kicks in.  I removed the draft gear box, took out a small pliers and proceeded to pry at the frame to bend it back into shape.  You guessed it... I was standing there with the main frame in my left and the now broken angle portion in the pliers of my right.  After a few choice words I put everything down and walked away. 

After I calmed down, I proceeded to mend the broken frame by joining the two pieces with some cement.  After letting that dry, I added more cement around the split joint and let that dry.  Hoping to strengthen the joint, I then added some left over styrene (90 degree angle stuff) to the inside and outside of the angle where I broke the frame.  I then replaced the coupler box, having removed the kadee coupler and replaced it with one of my cheaper plastic spares.  I'm hoping the plastic coupler will fail before the frame does.   With the shell replaced, all the damage is hidden.  By sheer luck, the coupler now sits level and at the correct height.  The engine is now relegated to the freight yard for light switching duty.  At some point I hope to get brave enough to put it back on the mainline, but I have my doubts about how well my repair will hold (too nervous to give it a stress test).

I feel like I just earned a Darwin Award.  The lesson here is don't try this at home kids.  There are a lot of coulda, shoulda, woulda's that would have solved a minor problem turned major.  I submit this hoping someone will learn from my mistake.

Regards,

Jonathan 

pdlethbridge

#1

Tylerf

So I read this and wonder, how did the metal frame get bent in the first place?

Yampa Bob

#3
I think he left out the juicy part, like maybe when the loco was airborne for a short drop.  That sometimes happens if the bungee cord is too long.  :D

Or...is there a little brother in the house?
I know what I wrote, I don't need a quote
Rule Number One: It's Our Railroad.  Rule Number Two: Refer to Rule Number One.

Tylerf

Yeah cause if or was the paraless drop that bent it, that would mean I got off lucky when I lost an atlas dash 8 off an un protected siding leading to a painful 5 foot drop. All I can say is ouch, but in the end I got away with only a few broken handrails and a lost plow but no frame bending.

jonathan

Sorry, the story doesn't get juicy.  My son is not tall enough to reach up to the benchwork.  I think it was a defect that was not detected at the manufacturer.  I've had the engine for well over a year and just now noticed it myself.  I'm still a little new at this.  Thanks, pdlethbridge for the info.  At least if the frame fails, I know I can get a replacement.  Now I just need to learn how to take an engine down to parade rest and put it back together again.  I just got the soldering down.  Now I may have to learn to unsolder.  The fun never ends.

R,

J

pdlethbridge

Many challenges, many new skills learned, much satisfaction gained.

Yampa Bob

#7
I liked the part about the piece in the pliers, that was sorta juicy.
I know what I wrote, I don't need a quote
Rule Number One: It's Our Railroad.  Rule Number Two: Refer to Rule Number One.

Jim Banner

I suspect Athearn and similar diecast frames warp because of casting stresses.  It seems to take a year or two for all the stress to dissipate.  Leastwise, that is my explanation for finding couplers off height when I am sure I installed them correctly and frames that no longer fit in the body quite as well as they did when new.

I guess I have been lucky but I haven't broken a frame by straightening.  Usually I strip it down, then put it on a hardwood block (shaped if necessary) and gently tap it back into shape with a soft hammer.

Jim
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

jonathan

Yeah, Jim, sometimes I forget to go slow and gentle.  Learning...

Jim Banner

jonathan, I didn't say I have never broken anything by trying to straighten it.  How do you think I learned to go slow and gentle?. ;D ;D

Jim

Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

Stephen D. Richards

Also, you may want to check out ALine.  Joe has many frames they cast there and he specifically targets Athearn for rebuilds.  He also has PPW motors.  Not the cheapest but good pricing and he is great to deal with.  Stephen

ho rocks

did you double check the problem prone parts maybe you should order a new bogie or were ever  the problem is so how does a metal piece get bent

Catt

I've had more than a few Athearns with bent frames some of them were brand new.You can straighten the frame with just your hands,you don't need to strip the unit any further than removing the shell to do this .To straighten the frame grasp the unit in one hand at the motor fuel tank and apply a downward pressure on the end just behind the coupler mount,Do this in stages so as to not over bend the frame.

It is really helpful if you can view the frame straight on at eye level setting on track.

jbrock27

HOR, if your question is "how did the frame get bent", an answer is, as Catt somewhat hinted to by mentioning he's found them new, with a bend, is that sometimes when Athearn frames were cast, they were taken out of the molds when still a little "warm".  In taking them out when they were still warm, the metal still being soft enough, they would "warp" or bend a little. 
As pointed out, it is not difficult to straighten out the frame.  They are also some of the easiest locos to strip down and take apart and put back together.

Welcome to the board and our "happy" little (14K +) group. 
Keep Calm and Carry On