News:

Please read the Forum Code of Conduct   >>Click Here <<

Main Menu

applying decals to 2-10-2

Started by n-scale chesapeake & ohio, February 18, 2012, 11:47:46 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

n-scale chesapeake & ohio

hi i applied microscale decals to the 2-10-2 but had troubles keeping them on the engine. i found that nail polish will seal them on but you can only use a small amount or the decals will desolve. i might post pics if i can figure out how.
models the C&O in 1945-55 happily in Canada :D

skipgear

What are you using to apply them? It sounds like you soaked them in water much too long.

To apply decals:

Step one - Make a soaking pad out of a saucer or tray and some paper towels folded over a couple times. Add water until the towels are wet but not soaking.

Step two - Cut out your decal and lay on the paper towel. Let set for a couple minutes. (Never dunk decals in water, especially to the point that they float of the backing paper. If you wait that long, all the decal adhesive is washed off also.)

Step three - Brush Microscale Micro Set on the model where you want to apply the decal.

Step four - Slide the decal off of the paper onto the model and position them, adding Micro Set as needed to keep them wet and sliding.

Step five - Walk away and let it dry.

Step six - Apply Micro Sol, heavy and fast with one brush stroke.

Step seven - Walk away and let it dry.
Tony Hines

Modeling the B&O in Loveland, OH 1947-1950

RGW

I just tryed the same with the bachmann J, the problem was that it needed a gloss coat for the decals to draw into.My decals feel off with little pressure.After a gloss coat they adhere great.

skipgear

You shouldn't need gloss cote. It sounds like you are over soaking your decals and washing the adhesive off the back.

Once positioned, use the Micro Sol on the decal and it melts the decal film into the finish and leaves just the printing. It makes the decals virtually disapear.

After all is done, I will usually shoot dull coat over the whole model just so that the decal finish matches the model and it helps protect the decals from scuff and scratches.

As an example, this is a laser cut wood model with decals applied, one of the hardest things to get a decal to lay down on. I used the method outlined above on a freshly painted wood model with dull finish on it. This is the result.



I've tried gloss coating before applying decals and it has never yielded better result and just takes more effort and materials while also obsuring more details because of thicker paint.
Tony Hines

Modeling the B&O in Loveland, OH 1947-1950

RGW

I have always thought that decals would not sick to dull surfaces,however your model looks good.Will this work with bare plastic also or is a coating need in this case? 

skipgear

I have found that you do need a painted surface. Decals do not stick to plain styrene very well. I found this out while working on a scratch built tender using Archer Rivets. Had it all done and ready to paint. The first shot of paint blew the corners up on a couple of the strips of decals. I had fits with decals coming off on that one until I got a good coat of paint on the whole thing and it locked the decals in place.
Tony Hines

Modeling the B&O in Loveland, OH 1947-1950

RGW

thanks for the info,next time I will try wet towel methed with My decals

RGW