DCC LOCO will not run in second block?

[Happyjack]

I'm converting a 15' X 4' from DC with blocks controlled by toggle switches to DCC. Big outer loop has one block 4' long in front part of the platform. I rewired existing wire feeding this block using 16 GA. stranded and DCC works fine. The outer block which is about 23' has only one feeder 16 GA. My DC trains will run fine on both blocks. DCC won't run at all on the 23' block. The polarity is correct. I checked on the DC mode using a Digital VOM. Is my problem due to not enough feeders on this block? It won't even run where the one wire is connected.

[cwmeeks]

I believe you should see about 15VAC across the tracks for DCC.

[hawaiiho]

Since the DC locos run, I would start by checking all DCC connections to that block.

[Doneldon]

Jack-

DCC is kind of persnickeddy about its power supply. I'd try a couple of addcitional feeders.

                                                                                                                               -- D

[electrical whiz kid]

16AWG wire-stranded or not- is a lousy choice.  Some guys might disagree, but so's my opinion.  Your best bet is to use either 14 or (my choice) 12THWN stranded.
Rich C.

[Doneldon]

Jack-

Just to prove Whiz Kid's assertion that others will disagree with him, let me say that 16 ga wire way is more than adequate for anything
smaller than a major clubs's oversize layout. Yes, our DC will show voltage drops over distance but 16 ga won't be a choke point. It has plenty
of ampacity, is easy to work with and is very affordable. In fact, you can typically buy lamp cord (two conductors plus a ground) or zip cord for
less than half of the cost of a single strand of the heat and chemical resistant wire Whiz recommends. We are dealing with 12-16 volts and a
couple of amps, at most. Sixteen gauge lamp cord easily handles 120 volts at up to ten amps without melting or being dangerous. So I use that.
Often I have a piece of lamp cord I've taken off of a worn out lamp or unused extension cord so my wire is free. And you don't need anything like
16 ga feeders, either. I use 20 or 22 ga wire for that; I know that many folks use smaller wire, even as small as 28 ga, but I wouldn't do that
unless the feeder was no more than a couple of inches long.

                                                                                                -- D

[richg]

Our club use 16 gauge in a good size yard and no issues. Adequate feeders are the issue and do not depend on track joiners.
Get yourself a meter like the one in the below link. Check the voltage drop starting at say the system and work your way down the tracks. Keep a loco or two on the rails for a load. With no load on the rails, the voltage will probably be the same everywhere. Trouble shoot.
An accurate voltage reading is not that important. You are looking for a trend.
Say you start out at the controller with 15 VAC and eventually see the voltage drop as you move farther away from the controller. There could be a spot with quite a drop in voltage.
I just posted about the same message in another thread.

http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm

Rich

[jward]

i've always used 18 ga doorbell wire for dcc applications. why? 2 reasons. first it is available in two conductor cables, and unlike lamp cord or zip cord the two conductors are different colours. this makes it much easier for me to keep my wiring straight.     second, 18ga is small enough to solder to code 83 rails, so i don't have to use a different size for feeders.

over the years i've had no problems on a couple of layouts, one of which was a typical basement sized layout. if i ever did, i'd have just run a second cable to the track, and effectively cut the wire resistance in half.

[Doneldon]

unlike lamp cord or zip cord the two conductors are different colours. this makes it much easier for me to keep my wiring straight.

Jeff-

The insulation on lamp or zip cord has one smooth wire and one with longitudinal ridges. Most have additional markings, either printed or incised
information about the size and characteristics of the wire. Some has one copper-colored wire and one silver-colored wire.

                                                                                                                                                                                           -- D

[jward]

have you ever tried to sort out which has the groove and which doesn't, while under the layout with your back twisted like a pretzel? i hurt just thinking about that.

[Joe Satnik]

Merry Christmas to All !

How to find bad "track joints" or "rail joiners" on your loop:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,20887.0.html

Scroll down to 6th post.

The loco is both the "load" and the "volt-meter" during the troubleshooting.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[electrical whiz kid]

Donaldon;
Like I inferred, it is only my practice to use what I like.  I am not dictating anyone's terms.  Is it my imagination or is this site getting as sophomoric as some of the others?.  From now on, I will keep my mouth shut.
Rich C. 

[Doneldon]

Whiz-

Hey! No harm, no foul. I was just underlining the reality that if four of us are asked our opinions there will be at least five answers, and they might all be correct. My main point was not that you were in error. On the contrary, your point is perfectly valid; I was merely suggesting a less expensive way to achieve the same goal. And please don't hesitate to express yourself. For one thing, I kind of get a kick out of stimulating some controversy because I believe it gives all of us an opportunity to assess different ways of doing things. More important, the loss of your input would be a distinct negative for this board.

                                                                           -- Doneldon