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Starting back Up "Building my HO Layout"

Started by trainmainbrian, August 14, 2014, 09:13:38 AM

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trainmainbrian

Hi everyone... I have not been on the forums in a wile.... Well Summer is winding down & just put in a $150.00 order of Woodland Scenic Scenery online & starting to start back up Finishing up my HO DCC Layout I am 70% complete now & I am hope full I will have all scenery done by Christmas Time... I do have a few Questions

What's the best way to keep dust off a Layout..... I installed Black Fabric "over the winter time last year" I got from a local textile shop up on the Floor Joists & seems to be curbing a lot of the dust...

I started using a TRICK my buddy uses on his layout WHAL Barber shop clipper oil on the Rails.... "But I don't really see a difference yet" has anyone else tried this....

I use a Bright Boy to clean my Rails Now... My Buddy uses a Car to clean his rails he pulls along his layout.... I have Dust Monkies but I am not really sure of there effects yet... Because no matter when I run them there always dirty. My buddy said I should not run dust monkies until I am completely done with scenery... He's Got a point there I think...
If your not thinking of Model Railroading each day you must be having a bad day.....& do not leave your mind @ the station...

jonathan

Brian,

When not running trains, I also cover my layout with black fabric.  Does a pretty good job.  Unless you live in a vaccum, dust will always accumulate.  I run a hand vac over my layout, oh, about twice a year... more often when adding scenerey, especially trees and bushes.

I have a brightboy attached to a paint stick.  I alway have it handy while runing trains.  There are certain dirt-collecting spots on my layout that require a quick rub frequently.  I also put a drop of conductalube on the rails, just ahead of my locos, prior to running trains.  The locos coat the rails while running.  This  keeps thing running smoothly during a session. I pay extra attention to the rails when running sound locos or brass.  These babies are a little extra sensitive to dirt.

Normally my turnout frogs are non-powered during operations.  However, I do have them electrically connected to an on/off switch.  I turn this switch 'on' when running brass, due to their electrical pickup configuration.  I can flip the switch to 'backwards' if a brass loco has to back through a switch. Non-powered frogs don't interfere with modern locos.

Regards,

Jonathan

Jhanecker2

To trainmainbrian :   Dust is everywhere .    the Wahl Oil  is a very old method of keeping the tracks of from oxidizing . Though there are now specialized  lubricants that allow electricity to pass through the rails to the wheels .  If you are installing scenery you are raising dust . If you are going with DCC , electrical conductivity  is a bigger issue . The ultimate  cure for  dust would be a dust filtration system like the type that is used in  areas where woodworking raises a lot of air - borne  dust .  These have the ability to filter down to one micron . Probably overkill for your situation  ,  hopefully . john2

electrical whiz kid

Probably a dumb question but why "black fabric", and which fabric?
Rich C.

jonathan

Not a dumb question at all...  :)

I use black fabric similar to live theater philosophy. When you don't want the audience to pay attention to something, cover it with black.  Hence, my layout skirting is black, to keep one's focus on the top of the layout, not all the mess going on underneath the layout.

The type of fabric depends on cost.  I get those coupons and head to a local fabric store, buying the cheapest black fabric I can find.  My skirting is around 80% complete at this point.

I flip the skirting over the top of the layout to keep the gunk off. Garages can get a bit dirty. I do have to watch how I scenic. Don't want to have any delicate things spiking up that can get pulled off by the fabric.

Regards,

Jonathan

jbrock27

TB, I use WAHL clipper oil.  I either put some on a cosmetic cotton swab to clean the track or sometimes use the method Jonathan uses with his pricier Conducta lube of putting some on the rails and letting it get distributed around by locos and rolling stock.  The WAHL clipper is less expensive and I reserve the Conducta lube for use on locomotive brushes and commutators.  The WAHL can also be used to clean loco wheels.  I have also used Denatured alcohol to clean rails and loco wheels.  The old track cleaning car I have with a pad that carries Life Like track cleaning fluid, does not work as well as the above.  I have plans to build a track cleaning car with a piece of hardboard as the track cleaner.

I've used light, clear plastic sheets to keep dust off the layout.  The kind like you find to cover furniture when painting.
Keep Calm and Carry On

ebtnut

There is also a product called "Rail-Zip".  Like the clipper oil, put a drop or two on the railheads and the trains will distribute it around the line.  On a big layout, maybe a couple of different spots.  I have been told, but have not confirmed, that Rail-Zip is really just auto transmission fluid in a little bottle.  It looks the part, but can't say for sure.

jbrock27

Yes, I have seen both Rogertra and JerryHO recommend Rail Zip in the past.  It is more expensive than WAHL.  I have yet to try it myself.  Perhaps after the WAHL runs out, which also gets used for its intended purpose in an electric hair clipper.
Keep Calm and Carry On

WoundedBear

3-in-1 oil works......Labelle gear lube works........sewing machine oil.....automatic transmission fluid works too.

Usually people use whatever they have on hand....there is no "one product is better" in this case. I think any highly refined, quality lubricant will have enough anti-corrosion additives in it to treat model rail heads effectively.

Sid

rogertra

Quote from: WoundedBear on August 14, 2014, 03:10:57 PM
3-in-1 oil works......Labelle gear lube works........sewing machine oil.....automatic transmission fluid works too.

Usually people use whatever they have on hand....there is no "one product is better" in this case. I think any highly refined, quality lubricant will have enough anti-corrosion additives in it to treat model rail heads effectively.

Sid


Sorry Sid, disagree with all the above except the ATF, which is what Rail Zip is anyway.  The others you list are oils and will attract dirt and will build up "crud" on the railhead.

Cheers

Roger T.


Doneldon

#10
Brian-

I'll jump on the bandwagon for Wahl and Conduct-a-Lube, with Conduct-a-Lube nosing out the Wahl product because Wahl oil isn't conductive as far as I now. I would avoid all of the rest of the oils and greases. They may keep your track from oxidizing for a while, but they will make the dirt problem worse as well as messing up their surroundings.

You will always have a significant dust problem as long as your layout is in an open basement under an unfinished floor. Plastic sheeting is better than fabric for a layout cover under an exposed floor because it stops all dust from above, not just the stuff that can't fall through cloth. You can staple it to the joists and just leave it there. This will control 80% of your dust problem but there will always be more dust in an open area like an unfinished basement or a garage. A fully finished room will eliminate 95% of the dirt and dust (other than what we generate when working on the layout, especially on scenery). Layout cleaning (not just track) is a necessary part of modeling. Fortunately, it is an annual or less often chore, depending on how the layout space is finished or not. Fabric is far superior to plastic around the base of a layout.            
                                                 -- D



ScottyB

All great suggestions. I'll add one more -- I've had great luck using CRC 2-26 lubricant. A 5oz bottle will last a very long time. Cheap and easy to find. I spray some on a small piece of leftover basswood or balsa, and rub it on the rails.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344


Scott
On30 for me, N scale for my son.

jbrock27

Thanks for the tip Scotty.  I always like cheap and easily available.

Doc, your question/statement that you did not think WAHL was conductive, intrigued me, so I went to the horse's mouth w/the question and WAHL USA replied that you are correct, it is not conductive.
Keep Calm and Carry On

Irbricksceo

heh, I'd love to know what they folks over there thought you intended to do with the stuff!
Modeling NYC in N

jbrock27

LOL! 

They did not ask, but included in their reply, was how often to apply it to the blades of an electric razor to prevent corrosion.
Keep Calm and Carry On