Scratchbuilding a British GWR 6100 class 2-6-2T locomotive

Started by Stryker, November 10, 2014, 12:35:38 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Stryker

Greetings to all,
Iam Stryker, a disabled Vietnam Vet who would like build a large scale British tank engine using Bachman Big Hauler Parts.  I am pleased with my Tweetsie Big Hauler set and that is why I would like to use the parts.  The difference is that I wish to make it to 1.22.5 scale to match my OO9 scale 2-6-2T British 4'x4' layout, but in a larger outdoor layout.

Any suggestions as to what parts for chassis and leading and trailing trucks I should use?  I can scratchbuild the shell and other items.   I know that I will have to adapt the trailing truck for electrical pick up......not a problem.

I appreciate and thank all Forum readers in advance.

Stryker------------
Stryker

Joe Satnik

Dear Stryker,

Welcome to the forum, and thank you for your service and sacrifices. 

I had to look up OO9, and found that the scale is 1:76.2, and the prototype gauge is 2'-3", or 27", or 685.8mm.

What is the prototype gauge for your 2-6-2T ?

This will determine the scale (or approximate scale) you should build in: 

Prototype gauge (mm)/45mm = 1/Scale.  

Your project's scale may be much different than 1:22.5.

I encourage forum members with much more modeling skill than I have to talk about matching wheel sizes, wheel spacing,

wheelbase length and how the wheels are driven.   

It might also help us to know the manufacturer and item number of your OO9 2-6-2T model. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik  
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

Stryker

Thank You Joe and You are welcome.
The real prototype uses 4'81/2"gauge.   I built a narrow gauge 009 gauge model of it for my 009 4'x3' layout using a Dapol model on a 2-6-2 NG chassis I bought 20 years ago @ a going out of business hobbyshop.

What I wish to build is a kitbashed Large Scale/ Gauge NG version of said model aas I have a very small "Garden" area in which to build outdoors.   Basically, I wish to use "Big Hauler" track and parts to scratch build the loco and parts.  The actual non NG loco is 41' over the buffers and 8'11 1/4" wide x 12'7 5/8" high.

I am starting to work out the loco dimensions based on the distance between the centers of the Bachman railheads.  It may take a while......  To be Continued..... ;D

Hope to hear from You soon Joe, I hope this clarifies things a little more
Cheers,
Stryker
Stryker

Joe Satnik

Hi, Stryker.

I would guess you should try to make a good side view by 

setting the body's height and length scale(s) to fit (complement) the Big Hauler's driver wheel diameter,

spacing and wheelbase. 

The body width and wheel gauge would then become "rubber scale" to fit the 45mm model track gauge.

Hopefully the "overall" scale and coupler heights would come close to matching

appropriate and available rolling stock, unless, of course, you plan to scratch build everything....

Please let us know how it all works out, and which scales (L, W, and H) you ended up using. 

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik
 
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

Stryker

Hi Joe,
There is a GWR website that has a number of the 2-6-2 T drawings that I will be using.  Basically, I will be doing what You said so well.  I don't recall stating this as such, but this will be a narrow gauge version of the locomotive and yes,  Joe, my new Friend, I will use the Big Hauler's driver dia to = the 5'8" dia of the real loco ( hope that makes sense).

What I ideally want to do is take the entire engine/chassis/ pilot wheels assembly, add tailing truck/wheels and build up the superstructure from there.  I have noticed that I can buy these items from the parts store on line here.  All I will have to do is extend the frame for the trailing truck  and add the superstructure.  Once I get my drawings done and chassis parts, I'll start the building.   I'm taking initial measurements from my Bib Hauler "Tweetsie" Loco for starting the drawings.
   
Thanks for Your advice, You are being a big help, my friend + I appreciate it. I look foward to Your replies :)
  For now,
Larry
Stryker

Joe Satnik

Hi, Stryker,

Using a chassis from the store is a great idea.

I was digging around online and found a few things:

Dapol OO plastic model (assembled, unpainted, decals applied):

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31FdM97VF9L.01_SL500_.jpg

Same with a very nice paint job:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41%2B9MMEcHcL.01_SL500_.jpg

By the way, this is all way too much fun.   

Joe

If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

Stryker

Thanks for the photos, Joe. ;D
I, in fact, just got the kit in the mail from a Company in Canada.   I was just going to E-mail You privately and fill You in more on things.  Due to my disability, I have trouble "speaking" on a public talk board so some of my Postings seem to be a little off.

Publicly speaking, as I go along with things, I post here for all.  Privately, I'll e-mail You where I won't accidentally offend our sponsor.

Cheers,
Larry
Stryker

Joe Satnik

Hey, Stryker.

I think you are doing just fine.

As a general rule of thumb,

If Bachmann doesn't make a competing item, (in this case a plastic non-powered OO kit),

and it advances the hobby, they won't mind too much.

You are also purchasing a chassis to kitbash,

and I'm sure they don't mind too much about that. 

(Free reminder to other kitbashers to order a chassis...)

Joe
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

Stryker

OK Joe.
You should be getting my P.M. any time now!

YMP,
Larry
Stryker

uscgtanker

welcome to Bachmann. your 009 railroad has two different names hon30 and 009. I have some Hon30 a 2-6-2 prairie and a dysfunctional 0-6-0 porter. what your looking for will make a excellent model but I have a few questions. is this engine going to be a replica or are you going to free range on every part. Being a modeler my self and building interurban cars I have built both styles. to make a proto type it will be easy to find the real engine in preservation or get plans of the engine. In the end product it should look how you like and keep to a distance rule for easier representation.
I like to see this on pics but you might have to use photobucket.


Stryker

Hi uscgtanker ;D

As regards Your 1st question:  I will be making an exact copy of the 6100 class.  Using the 10' rule is a good idea, I've used it on RC aircraft.  The only non exact thing about it will be what I've heard called "Proto-lancing"  Basically, in this case,  my Railway (both HO + Large Scale) will be based on the GWR, but the paint scheme will be based on the LMS.....mainly because I prefer the LMS red!

Yes, there are plenty of on line photos and line drawings for accuracy, for which I'm grateful and I also have the DAPOL model to help on things the photos and line drawings aren't clear on.  As I can, I will let folks know whats going on.   Thanks again for all of Your suggestions and ideas......PLEASE keep them coming!!!!!

Your Modeling Buddy,
Stryker
Stryker

Stryker

Hi Joe,
Thanks for the pictures.   They are much appreciated!!!!!

Just for the record and public edification ( ;D), the photos that show the "T" part of the locomotives that show a narrowing down near the top of the tender tells the viewer that it is a Lovatt designed "Prairie".
The photos that show straight vertical sides on the tender w/ a slight flair outward on the rear side is the loco that I wish to build.

The only real problem that I have is that I can find no photos or drawings of the interior of the cab.  Sadly the DAPOL model only has a backplate that has some, but not al lot of detail.  Must close for now.   I appreciate everyones' input on this project

For Now......
Stryker
Stryker

tac

Stryker - looking for you over here in UK.  There is only one survivor, based at the Didcot Steam Heritage Centre, #6013, but the loco is also very popular among the 1" scale builders, too, and my local live-steamers may be able to help with a true-scale backhead layout.

Meanwhile, here is a shot of such a model on a local live-steam track - give you some idea, right?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uW45TNEhUE

THIS one is even better - firing up and pressure test before a run at East Gilling...it's in the larger scale of 1.5" to the foot, over here called seven and a quarter gauge.  Some great cab shots that might be of use to you if you can frame-grab....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQXL2B-4QP8

I'll be in touch via this site, OK?

Best of luck

tac

Stryker

Hi Tac,
Thank You in advance for Your help as well as Your local live steamers.   I've been trying to find pictures of the interior of 6013, but to date had no luck what so ever.  If, by chance You are able to get some photographs of 6013's cabin/( footplate?) that You could post, I'd be extremely grateful.  Right now, so to speak, I am looking on the internet to see what the terrain for a GWR Branch line looks like.  I've seen far too many Rail Road layouts supposedly representing the Middlewest of the U.S. that do not look like the builder checked his/her geology for the area supposedly being modeled.   I refuse to insult my fellow modelers in the U.K. by doing that to them!

Tac, might I please impose upon You and Your friends to let me know which books that You know of, over there that might help me to duplicate the geology of the GWR's branchlines?
Again, Thank You in advance,
Sincerely,

Stryker
Stryker