Traction tire

[MrMoose]

Does anyone know if Bachmann makes a traction tire for their Ho  Locomotives?
Or does any other Manufacturer make them for Ho? 

[bapguy]

 Steam or diesel? What model. You might look at Bullfrog snot.   http://www.bullfrogsnot.com/   Joe

[MrMoose]

It is steam 2-6-0 DCC with sound.

[Jerrys HO]

It is steam 2-6-0 DCC with sound.

Adding weight will give it more traction as they are on the light side. No traction tires available for that engine and IMHO Bullfrog snot is not the best option.
These little guy's have problems pulling a long train of cars, I get about 7 cars behind mine with a 2% incline.

[Doneldon]

Moosie-

Traction tires aren't simply rubber bands that are stretched around a locomotive's wheels. The wheels themselves are designed with
a groove to contain the bands. That means you can't just put traction tires on any locomotive; you would have to change the
wheels if they don't have the needed groove.

There are better, or at least easier, alternatives. One is Bull Frog Snot which was already mentioned. Be aware that you will
probably lose electrical continuity in wheels coated with BFS. A better option (my opinion) is to add some weight to the loco.
This should be located as low as possible and so it maintains the loco's balance on its drive wheels.

Keep in mind that Moguls were small loco which couldn't pull long trains. We really shouldn't expect more out of our models than
what the prototypes could do.
                                             -- D

[Jerrys HO]

I second that D

[MrMoose]

Thanks for the Reply's. Happy Railroading

[jbrock27]

I second that D  ?

It looked to me like D was seconding your suggesting, Jerry.

[rogertra]

I just ran an experiment with one of my Alco 2-6-0s c/w DCC and sound.

On a 36" radius curve, on level track, the loco started 16 assorted freight cars from various (quality) manufacturers, all equipped with metal wheel , which is my standard practice.   With 16 cars, the loco started off with no wheel spin.

The addition of one more two bay hopper with less than satisfactory rolling wheels resulted in a little wheel spin on starting but the loco still managed to get the 17 cars under-way and the wheel spin ceased once moving.  Prototypical to say the least.    However, replacing the two bay hopper with a free running caboose, the loco started the now 16 car train plus caboose with any sign of wheel spin.  Total, 17 cars.  I this point I quit adding more cars.

I swapped locos for my other 2-6-0, same results.  None of my engines have added weight as on the branch line they serve, they never have to haul trains of more than 12 or so freight cars.

Conclusion.  It would seem that a combination of wider radius curves, free rolling quality freight cars, equipped with metal wheels is the answer.

Cheers.

Roger T.

[Doneldon]

Conclusion.  It would seem that a combination of wider radius curves, free rolling quality freight cars, equipped with metal wheels is the answer.
Cheers.
Roger T.

Roger-

I think a lot of model rails don't appreciate just how important these factors are. They want to run long strings of  low-qual rolling stock at high speeds around tight curves and then they complain because their engines aren't powerful enough. As a young (I mean YOUNG!) railroader I had to put up with some operational problems because the best I could afford was Athearn car kits and inexpensive locos. Today's models are so superior operationally and with their level of detail that there's really no excuse for lousy equipment. But people still buy junk at train shows thinking they are getting a bargain.
             -- D

[rogertra]

Roger-

I think a lot of model rails don't appreciate just how important these factors are. They want to run long strings of  low-qual rolling stock at high speeds around tight curves and then they complain because their engines aren't powerful enough. As a young (I mean YOUNG!) railroader I had to put up with some operational problems because the best I could afford was Athearn car kits and inexpensive locos. Today's models are so superior operationally and with their level of detail that there's really no excuse for lousy equipment. But people still buy junk at train shows thinking they are getting a bargain.
             -- D

Doneldon.

Strange you should mention Athearn kits as 80+% of my current rolling stock is Athearn kits and most of the rest are Roundhouse kits.  Who can afford $50+ for a freight car these days?  While the $50 freight cars may be exquisitely detailed models, put them in a train made up mainly of Athearn and Roundhouse kits and you can't tell the difference.   

At least I can't.  However, your points about tight curves, low quality models purchased at train shows with plastic wheels that only run on code 100 track with poor quality trucks and then running at high speeds are well taken.   

BTW, after my experiment with the 2-6-0, I removed the caboose and backed the 16 cars into staging and coupled them back up the three cars and caboose of the train I'd "borrowed" the 16 cars from.  Just for the heck of it I tried the 2-6-0 on what was now a 19 car plus caboose train.  With a little wheel spin, that looked and sounded quite prototypical, the 2-6-0 got hold of the train 19 car plus caboose train and slowly moved off at a scale 25 to 30 mph with no further wheel spin at all.  I then backed the train back into it's staging track, again using the 2-6-0 with no trouble at all.  I could post a video if doubters want proof. 

Cheers

Roger T.   

[jbrock27]

I agree with points each of you has made.

Doc is there something wrong with Athearn rolling stock kits?  I agree with your point about those who buy junk and expect a bargain.

Roger, I'm w/you, I aint payin $50 for a piece of rolling stock!  Heck, I am not even payin $20.  Plus, just like w/super detailed expensive locos, super detailed rolling stock has a tendency to have small parts break or break off.  For example, I love the P2K locos, just not their fragile details.
All of your tests have been conducted on level track, correct?

[ALCO0001]

Up grading old stuff is a big part of model railroading along with making adjustments adding weight ,installing new wheels sets preferably metal on older cars along with a good set of couplers with metal detail parts so they are not so prone to breakage ect ...I have found some of the old stuff that some call junk if its something that is no longer produced and the sands of time have reduced there numbers .I CALL it a challenge to make something out of it special and unique to my railroad .I agree there is some junk out there ,it does not necessarily have to be old .I DO NOT recommend traction tires since they put junk on the rail (rubber) They are known to cause uneven traction and worst excessive stress on the gears.Some slipping is good but not too much . IF that is the case a second unit would be added.Is not what they really do anyhow?
Jack

[jbrock27]

I agree Jack that old does not necessarily mean junk.  It just depends on whose old it is, as there is definitely junk out there.  I am on board with you about making "junk" into something.  For example, I recently took an AHM (universally for the most part accepted as "junk") "Chemplex" chemical car that I bought for cheap and bc it is somewhat of an unusual car, decided to make a project of updating the couplers, trucks and wheel sets.  I added weight as well.  I also made this my first weathering project.  Sid's suggestion of adding windex to paint works well by the way.   Did it cost a few dollars more to do that?  You betcha.  But it was fun and enjoyable and to your point, the car is no longer produced to my knowledge so it's kinda cool.  If I had as good a camera as say Jonathon does, I would post pics, but the resolution on my camera is plain lousy.

[ACY]

On a 3% grade the 2-6-0 with sound can only handle 3-4 pieces of free rolling (generally intermountain wheels) rolling stock. If the rolling stock is heavy or not free rolling it can only manage 1 or 2.