anyone have a review of the 2-8-0?

[Irbricksceo]

The Locomotive was Brand new (both were, one of them starts at about speed 28, the other at about 35) so I've not given thought to it. they never loose power so I didn't attempt anything with the contacts either. I've taken one of them apart to replace the 4 wire plug once, then again to replace the headlight I burned out, so I know a fair amount about how they are inside.

Incidentally, they both have worse slow speed operation than my 2-10-0 and 2-8-2 (though I'd like to reduce the start speed of the 2-8-2, it can crawl, but even at speed step 1, I get the feeling it could crawl just a bit more). One interesting thing is that all my locos seem to need more power to run in reverse, no idea why. They all got the appropriate amount of break in time.

As for recommendations, the 2-8-0 pulls better but I think the 2-10-0 looks nicer. Many would disagree thinking it looks too Russian but I love it, it and the 2-8-2 are my favorites.

[Trainman203]

I have 7 2-8-0's, all except the latest came with sound, and they are my go-to engines.  Th earlier sound ones in the black box had better, deeper tone soundwise than the later blue box ones.  The new standard line one I got has a lousy DCC decoder which is being traded for a Tsunami.

Sedfred , this is a VERY heavy 2-8-0 that towers over my USRA engines, 4-6-2's, 2-8-2's, 4-8-2's and 2-10-2's.  It looks great but it "is" a giant among engines that is really too heavy for my branch line.  However, they work so well so consistently I overlook it's oversized-ness.  Incidentally, those bigger engines, I bought them for the old now gone club layout, which could take them.  At this point they are homeless racehorses pent up in the corral.

You won't be sorry you got one of the 2-8-0's.  Unless  you get a sound one somewhere, though, you will want to replace the decoder.

[ricco]

I wish I had the success others have had with this engine. I now have three, all of which have had or continue to have problems with the belt drive. I have purchased new belts, worm gears and a whole lower assembly and new pins that hold the casings together in trying to get them in better running order. I recently repaired one the of the engines and reassembled the two halves. I tested the motor and the worm gear turned fine. When trying to attach the lower unit, the worm gear would no longer mesh with the spur gear on the axle. I cannot imagine what I have done wrong. I love the looks of these engines and when running, especially with a better decoder, their low speed performance is excellent. I use a tsunami decoder in one of them using F11 braking ...a great feature especially for steam. I recently purchased a WOW steam decoder, but given the problems I am having, I am reluctant to install this decoder in one of these engines. Id love to hear from others who have had these problems ....I've had other Bachmann engines ( K4) which I loved and used extensively but it did use a far different drive system. I'll look forward to hearing form others..Thanks , Rich 

[electrical whiz kid]

How about exploring the possibility of a little shim-stock in the right places?  It sounds like you might have to tip the mechanism into the gear a little. 

Rich C.

[rogertra]

Sounds like you have the problem that has cropped up in some of the 2-8-0 & 2-10-0 early runs. The gearbox/driver gear mesh is incorrect and the gear on the wheel has been "cupped" by the gear in the gearbox. Its an easy fix but its up to you whether or not you send it back. If you do send it back, be sure to remove any decoders, sound units etc. that you have installed, because you won't get those back. They'll just send you a new locomotive.

Remove the screw from under the front that goes up into the steam chest that's between the cylinders. The ends of the ladders from the pilot deck have two plastic tabs that fit into the boiler at the walkway. Pull straight out from the side to release these tabs.

Remove the drawbar screw and drawbar, which makes it easier to get to the other screw under the cab. Slide the frame back and down and the frame and drivers should come out easily. Look at the main driver gear. I bet it has a "cup" shape in the teeth. Now remove via the same pulling back and down method the boiler weight. It too should come out easily, and set the boiler aside. Now look at the part of the weight that fits down into the steam chest. If this section is slightly rounded, you've found the problem. This part is supposed to be completely flat. If rounded, this decreases the gear mesh and causes excess wear.

There are two ways to proceed from here. Neither is difficult but one is more tedious than the other is.

One way, (the tedious one), involves a complete disassembly of the weight, with complete removal of all gears, bearings and insulators from the weight. Depending on your experience, this may not be the best way.

The other way is to take several pieces of tissue paper, paper towel, and stuff the exposed gear and bearing part to prevent metal chips from getting into them and cover with a small piece of tape. This seals the gearbox. Take a small to medium flat file and carefully file the "round" off the end of the weight. Remove the packing, making sure no filings got into the gearbox, and place the weight assembly back into the frame. NOT IN THE BOILER, but on the frame. Place the mechanism with the weight on it and push it back and forth on a piece of track with no power on it. If the mechanism doesn't move except for a little bit, you're almost done. If it starts to move locks up, moves, locks up. You have more filing to do.

Repack the gears, and recover with tape and take the file and file the weight down just a hair where it attaches to the rear of the mechanism. The point is you're trying to lower the weight down onto the gear for a better mesh, without knocking the boiler off level. If you are nervous about doing this, return it to Bachmann.

I did this to mine after the problem showed up on several locos that belong to my club (Wrecking Crew), and that was over five years ago and I haven't had a problem, nor has any of the others, since we did this "treatment" to them. It can also be done to any Spectrums that you get, except for the articulated & shay. I've never known them to have this problem.